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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1991 Honda Accord Reving Problem
I have had the same exact problem with the same year and model. We replaced all the vacuum lines, the coolant temperature sensor, and now a small diaphragm on the rear left of the intake. This last part was probably the cheapest and supposedly has the problem fixed. Any of those pieces gone wrong could cause the issue.
Posted on Jul 29, 2008
your torque convrtoer is shot. it is the at the front of the tranny to transfer motion from fly wheel ( engine side) to the trans. its a fairly cheap and easy fix.
Posted on Apr 06, 2009
i own an accord like yours and it started doing the same just recently that means friction disk inside the tranny are slipping ..in other words your tranny has little to live i recomend you buy some lucas non slip trans oil its helps it wont fix the problem but it'll give you enought time to save up and repair your tranny or sell it .......
Posted on Sep 06, 2009
SOURCE: i have a toyota hi
You need to access the Engine Control Module (ECM) using suitable diagnostic equipment connected to the data link connector of the car in order to pull out all Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) memored. Then you will be full informed about bad components and you will be able to repair & replace bad pieces. and reset the ECM.
I suspect that in your case the turbocharger is responsible for engine losing power.
The car goes in "limp home" mode!!!
1. Engine stopped and ignition switch off. Check all pneumatic connections and hoses between turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control, boost-pressure control solenoid valve, vacuum reservoir, EGR control solenoid valve, intake-manifold flap solenoid valve, EGR valve with throttle - part of intake manifold. Also the vacuum connection between tandem pump and brake booster. If you find something wrong replace parts. If not go to step 2.
2. Extract the hose of the turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control part of turbocharger. Instead of the original hose you must place another 1 meter long hose with the same inside diameter, and then you check to inspire yourself the air from the other one extremity of this hose. The mechanical connecting rod of the turbocharger actuator must have a smooth and whole motion. If you can do that with your mouth, then you must replace the boost-pressure control solenoid valve. If you can not reach this with your mouth, then you go to step 3.
3. This is the most difficult work. The problem is that the soot particles deposits inside the turbocharger plugging the variable nozzle geometry mechanism = adjustable vanes of the turbine. If the turbocharger actuator is not able to adjust the turbine vanes the charge air pressure increase too much and ECU (engine control unit) go in "limp mode" = engine protection software. As a result the "limp home" mode engine still running until you turn the engine off (ignition switch off) and back on when the "limp mode" is deactivated, but the fault still remain in ECU memory!
4. You must be able to extract the turbo from the engine and then to disassemble the turbocharger, clean inside adjustable vanes mechanism and refit all.
Posted on May 01, 2011
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