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Toyota transmission 1988

I am looking for 1988 toyota 7mge transmission clutch release fork. It seems no one has it in America. Please email me back at melvinbareng@ymail.com

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  • Toyota Master
  • 2,122 Answers

Hi Mel, I believe that if you remove the fork and carrying it with as a sample, visit a few breaker yards you'll be able to match up something. Vehicles with similar manual boxes Toyota Chaser, Toyota Mk 11, Toyota V 6 Camry and so on. If we can sort out problems such as this in Zambia, you can in the States. Regards John

Posted on Oct 13, 2013

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 74 Answers

SOURCE: clutch release fork

you have to keep pumping it until it builds up than bleed until feel proper

Posted on Jun 18, 2008

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: manual clutch

Sounds like the wrong pressure plate. I got a kit from Autozone and it was the wrong pressure plate. My old one was obviously thicker. With the new pressure plate, the shift fork was almost at full travel before any resistance. That's no good. I had to pull the transmisssion again and use my old pressure plate. Luckily, it was in good condition. Then, the clutch slack was easily adjusted and works great.

Posted on Feb 11, 2009

daves944
  • 1050 Answers

SOURCE: Clutch Whine on Toyota 4WD Pickup

There is a bearing that presses on the center of the clutch release arms when you put your foot down, it's called the clutch release bearing. It sounds like yours is starting to go bad. There is also a bushing or bearing in the back of the crankshaft that can cause this noise. the the input shaft of the transmission is stabilized in this. These two items are almost always replaced when a clutch job is performed. Unfortunately that is the only way to get at these two bearings. You may be able to drive the vehicle for quite a few more miles. but this is a sign of things to come.

Posted on Apr 06, 2009

  • 255 Answers

SOURCE: 91' Toyota Pickup clutch not depressing/stuck.

dude under truck left hand sideof tranny, is your clutch slave cylinder, remove the hydraulic line, the two mount bolts. replace the slave cylndr. you got clutch !!!!

ps i dont recall there being a bleed valve. it should bleed by gravity


james ray

Posted on Apr 13, 2009

saabreur
  • 51 Answers

SOURCE: Manual transmission clutch will engage

There are two possibilities to consider:

  1. the master cylinder is leaking/by-passing hydraulic fluid
  2. the slave cylinder is leaking/by-passing fluid
You didn't mention a fluid leak, so that would eliminate the obvious cause of a leaking pipe. However, check for leaks around the master cylinder (on the firewall) and at the front of the engine by the clutch itself. This would indicate which of the two might be the problem, If they haven't been replaced in many years, it's probably sensible to replace both at once. The slave cylinder can be replaced without removing the engine. If you have ABS, you'll likely need to loosen/remove the alternator.

Good luck!

Saabreur

Posted on Aug 09, 2009

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1 Answer

Install clutch fork


No easy way-no shortcuts. The transaxle has to be removed. The fork is attached to the clutch release bearing which is on the transmission's input shaft. The fork is removed out the inside of the bellhousing, after detaching the release bearing (the throw-out bearing). Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

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Mitsubishi pajero clutch removal



I am currently replacing the clutch plate, pressure plate and thrust bearing on a 1996 Mitsubishi pajero gen-II 6g74 5-spd

I found loads of information on unbolting and un-plugging the electric's what I didn't find was information about separating the engine and transmission.
The thrust bearing is held in place by a cir-clip behind the pressure plate, the bearing fork is near imposable to access unless to two are separated.


note: I think it would've been best to do this when removing the hydraulic cylinder that moves the clutch fork as I had to re-bolt up the engine.


Here is how to do it !!
1: remove the two rubber inspection covers (one will be around the clutch fork) mine being r/h drive the fork is on the left-side, these are located either side of the gear box.
- Looking through the inspection ports you will see - thrust bearing, thrust bearing fork which is attached to the bearing via clips, back of pressure plate, gearbox input shaft.
2: you will need two long flat head screw drivers

3: you want to insert these between the thrust bearing and collar via the inspection ports to release the cir-clip

4: the thrust bearing and fork should now move freely on the splined shaft.

Still having problems ?
looking through the inspection holes - the collar shouldn't be visible (it looks like a spline)
- if it is !! you will need to move this further in to the pressure plate as the cir-clip wont have room to release behind the pressure plate.
- the point you are trying to insert the screw drivers into is between the collar and bearing (not the collar and pressure plate)
I was able to disengage the cir-clip for the trust bearing on the new pressure plate (on the bench) with a ball joint removal tool by a applying pressure to one side of the collar only - ( I don't think you can do this with the transmission in place as the thrust bearing fork gets in the way)
once removed - you will be able to separate the transmission and engine, unbolt the pressure plate, replace the clutch plate, unbolt the 10mm retaining bolt for the clutch fork which is located inside of the bell housing - knock up into the bell housing the frost plug this allows for the pin holding the fork to be removed (I did this by wiggling the fork back n forth and putting a piece of welding wire part way through the 10mm hole and pulling out through the frost plug hole).
hope this all helps someone...good luck

on Apr 03, 2010 | Mitsubishi Montero Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Slipping Clutch on Toyota Townace 1988 Van.


Check that the slave cylinder is fully releasing the clutch (push the clutch fork and shaft all the away back into slave cyl.. If ok replace the clutch assy.

Mar 29, 2013 | Toyota Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My toyota corolla 1988 clucth pedal are very hard. Can you please help with any ideas what to do.


chances are the clutch 'fingers' are getting old. maybe try and lubricate your pivot points including the one inside the gearbox accessable by removing cover around the clutch fork. if not id say you may need to replace the clutch itself.

Jun 03, 2011 | Toyota Corolla Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I GOT A MANUAL 4-SPEED AND IT WILL NOT SHIFT INTO GEAR WHEN THE MOTOR IS RUNNING.I REPLACED THE TEN INCH CLUTCH,PRESSURE PLATE,WITH THE ELEVEN INCH.ITS A FOUR ON THE FLOOR NOT A COLLUM SHIFT


I think by going to the larger diameter clutch, you have to use a different length clutch fork and maybe a different release bearing. The larger clutch requires that the fork must travel farther to release the clutch. If you use the same fork , the ratio is all wrong. I think a shorter fork is what is needed.

Jan 08, 2011 | 1988 Ford Econoline

2 Answers

How get to flywheel bolts


In the Toyota Pick-ups/Land Cruiser/4Runner 1989-1996 (free register) can find several graphics about this.

Driven Disc and Pressure Plate - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

(see Figures 1 through 27).

cc66ac3.jpg


CAUTION The clutch driven disc may contain asbestos, which has been determined to be a cancer causing agent. Avoid inhaling any dust from any clutch surface! When cleaning clutch surfaces, use a commercially available brake cleaning fluid. Never clean clutch surfaces with compressed air.
  1. Remove the transmission.
  1. Matchmark the clutch cover (pressure plate) and flywheel, indicating their relationship.
  1. Loosen the clutch cover-to-flywheel retaining bolts one turn at a time in a crisscross pattern. The pressure on the clutch disc must be released GRADUALLY.
  1. Remove the clutch cover-to-flywheel bolts. Remove the clutch cover and the clutch disc.
  1. If the clutch throwout bearing is to be replaced, do so at this time as follows:
  1. Remove the bearing retaining clip(s) and remove the bearing and hub.
  2. Remove the release fork and the boot.
  3. The bearing is press fit to the hub. Turn the bearing by hand while placing it under some pressure; check for freedom of motion and lack of grinding or resistance. The bearing is permanently lubricated and cannot be disassembled or greased.
  4. Clean all parts; lightly grease the input shaft splines and all of the contact points.
  5. Install the bearing/hub assembly, fork, boot, and retaining clip(s) in their original locations.
  1. Inspect the flywheel surface for cracks, heat scoring (blue marks), and warpage. If oil is present on the flywheel surface, this indicates that either the engine rear oil seal or the transmission front oil seal is leaking. If necessary, replace the seal(s). If in doubt concerning the condition of the flywheel, consult an automotive machine shop.
  1. Before installing any new parts, make sure that they are clean. During installation, do not get grease or oil on any of the components, as this will shorten clutch life considerably. Grease or fingerprints may be cleaned with an evaporative cleaner such as the type used on brake linings.

To install:
  1. Position the clutch disc against the flywheel. The long side of the splined section faces the flywheel.
  2. Install the clutch cover over the disc and install the bolts loosely. Align the matchmarks made. If a new or rebuilt clutch cover assembly is installed, use the matchmark on the old cover assembly as a reference.

Whenever the clutch disc is replaced, replacement of the pressure plate (clutch cover) and release bearing is highly recommended.
  1. Align the clutch disc with the flywheel using a clutch aligning tool. These handy tools are available in many auto parts stores at a reasonable price. Do NOT attempt to align the clutch disc by eye; use an alignment tool.
  1. With the clutch aligning tool installed, tighten the clutch cover bolts gradually in a star pattern, as is done with lug nuts. Final tighten the bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm).
  2. Apply molybdenum disulfide grease or multi-purpose grease to the release fork contact points, the pivot and the clutch disc splines. Install the boot, fork, and bearing on the transmission input shaft.
  3. Install the transmission.
Hope helped.

Mar 15, 2010 | Toyota Pickup Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do you replace a throw out bearing on a 88 integra ls?


You must remove the transmission from the vehicle. The clutch release bearing (throwout bearing) rides on the input shaft of the transmission, and is the only part of the clutch kit that remains attached to the transmission upon removal.

Make certain you reattach the bearing retainer mechanism to the bearing fork, so that the bearing doesn't ride on the face of the pressure plate while you're not using the clutch pedal.

Dec 27, 2009 | 1988 Acura Integra

2 Answers

No tension on clutch peddle


That sounds like it could be... I'm assuming the bearing slipped off of the fork, and that would give you this condition, see if you can look in through the rubber boot at the fork to see this.

Aug 17, 2009 | 1991 Geo Tracker

1 Answer

91' Toyota Pickup clutch not depressing/stuck.


dude under truck left hand sideof tranny, is your clutch slave cylinder, remove the hydraulic line, the two mount bolts. replace the slave cylndr. you got clutch !!!!

ps i dont recall there being a bleed valve. it should bleed by gravity


james ray

Apr 13, 2009 | 2004 Toyota Highlander

1 Answer

1989 Toyota Camry


Hi,

On an 89 Toyota Camry with manual transmission, two possible reasons:
  • clutch;
  • release bearing
Try bleeding the clutch on the slave cylinder. If this does not prove to be corrective, you may have to have the transmission/clutch checked/repaired/replaced. In some instances, it could just be a sticking release bearing or clutch fork.

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards.

Thank you for using FixYa.

Jul 25, 2008 | 1989 Toyota Camry

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