1997 Jeep Wrangler left interior door does not work. The lock rod is visible, but I have not been able to locate the position or see the latch rod. Could it fall complete off? If so, how do I get to it to reattach? Many thanks,

Is this the one?

If not do a Google search for:
2006 Wrangler Fuse Diagram
and pick the one that matches your vehicle.
Interior Fuse Box Location 1997 2006 Jeep Wrangler 2006 Jeep Wrangler...

If I am remembering correctly, the switch is part of the latch. Each door has its own switch to turn on the interior light, and it sounds like the switch in the driver's door latch is either stuck or junk. If it has to be replaced it is very simple to remove for those that know how, but a nightmare for those that don't. The exterior handle has to be removed to release the pull-cord to the latch, interior trim panel and vapor barrier has to come off. Electrical harness, lock rod, interior handle rod, all have to be removed. Now the latch. Then it all has to go back together, and most importantly, it all has to work. I'm not saying it's not possible. I'm saying that it can ruin your day and your wallet if something goes wrong.

the accuator is most likly cause

Jaguar 2000-06 - Locks & Lock Systems
Power Door Locks - Removal & Installation

Door Lock Switch
Door Lock Diagnosis & Testing

1. Visually inspect the following:
   Misaligned door(s), hood or luggage compartment lid Door latches Actuating rod Exterior door handle Interior door handle Door lock cylinder Cable Luggage compartment lid exterior release switch Fuse(s) Wiring harness Electrical connector Door lock actuator Remote transmitter batteries Vehicle battery Remote transmitter Door lock switch Front electronic module
2. If an obvious cause for an observed or reported concern is found, correct the cause (if possible) before proceeding to the next step.

Door Lock Motor
Coupe And Convertible

1. Turn ignition key to position II.
2. Motor door glass to fully raised position.
3. Turn ignition key to position O.
4. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
5. Remove door casing for access.
6. Remove door water shedder.
7. Position PVC secondary water shedder for access.
8. Slacken and remove the door glass rear runner lower securing screws.
9. Reposition door glass rear runner. Mark the position of the glass rear runner upper securing screw.
10. Slacken and remove the upper securing screw and move the runner away from the glass.
11. Disconnect door handle and lock barrel (driver door only) operating rods from latch links.
12. Slacken and remove the three latch assembly securing screws and position latch for access.
13. Remove latch motor harness multiplug from mounting bracket and disconnect multiplug.
14. Release operating cable from door handle. Move inner door handle to the locked position. Remove operating cable outer abutment from support bracket. Disconnect cable inner from door inner handle.
15. Remove lock motor assembly from door.
16. To install, reverse removal procedure.
    
    
    

    Fig. Removing door lock actuator
    

Sedan

1. Remove the door window glass
2. Detach the interior door handle.
3. Detach the actuator remote cable from the interior door handle.
4. Remove the interior door handle.
5. Detach the door window glass run.
6. Remove the exterior door handle retaining screws.
7. Remove the front door actuator retaining screws.
8. Reposition the front door actuator and exterior handle.
9. Remove the front door actuator and exterior handle.
10. Disconnect the front door actuator remote cable.
11. Detach the door lock cylinder connecting rod (1).
12. Detach the exterior door handle connecting rod (2).
13. Remove the front door actuator (3).
14. To install, reverse removal procedure.
    
    
    

    Fig. Removing door lock motor-Sedan
    

Hope this helps.

Most likely the rod that connects from the inside lever to the latch has come disconnected. There are small plastic clips that hold the rod to the latch, that may have broke. Would require removing the door panel.

Pull the inside panel off ,and look at the latch itself,that latches the door,and look for the lever that locks the latch,it will be sticking out of the latch,and try and release the lock by moving the lever.

check to make sure your seatbelt is not caught in the latch. if this is the case it may just take a little force.

if you hit the lock button a couple times, will it finally lock?

If so, then you will need to take door cover off and lube up the connectors as they probably got corroded.

Shopping list: Spray can of "White Lithium grease" and a spray can of WD-40 or similar penetrating lubricant, and spray the door latch assy, inside out, with WD-40 first. Even if you have to put window down & aim spray nozzle from top at area of latch, and soak it. Stick the nozzle inside the key slot also, and give it a few squirts. After you let it sit for a minute or 2 start working the lock on door, lock ,unlock, lock, unlock, until you feel it getting easier, now do same with key, until it starts to loosen up. Once you get it working freely, give it a few minutes, and do same with "white lithium grease". That will hopefully protect it from seizing (rusting) up again. Every once in a while when you think of it, give latch another shot of lithium grease. I usually try to do mine before & after winter, or whenever I start to feel it getting a little stiff again. Worst thing is the glass you have to clean if you aim spray too much toward glass, but small price to pay for not having to pull door panel off. If your door panel is easy to get off to allow for better access to back of latch assy, that would definately be better, but that's up to you & your experience with tools. Then you can be sure you got all the related linkages lubed where they need to be.

These directions might sound a little goofy. I'm trying to orient your location with front and rear rather then left and right because it depends on which door you are working on. Front is towards front of rig and rear, oh I think you get it.
1. Close window on door. 2. Using a flat screw driver pop off trim under inside door handle. I think there is a groove in the plastic to which the screw driver can be inserted. Remove screw. 3. Using same screw driver pop off trim panel with door lock and window control switches. Start lifting from end located at panel closest to the front of the rig. The panel towards the back end has a pivot point which holds the back of the panel into the arm rest. Dis-connect the two switches from the trim panel. 4. Again, using flat screw driver, pop off the trim pannel located at the upper door/window frame nearest the back of the rig. Remove screw. 5. Lift up the door panel to remove. Be careful the light bulb is attached to the door panel. Rotate light socket 90 degrees and remove. 6. From the rear of the door pull back the platic stick-on barrier. Don't remove the whole thing just pull it leaving about half of it towards the front of the door stuck on. 7. Remove the one 11mm bolt, located towards the bottom of door, which holds the rearwindow guide. Don't remove the two 11mm bolts which hold the horizontal brace. Nothing else needs to be removed, leave all rods and attachments in place. They all attach the the door latch and are not of any further concern.
8. Now the easy part. The actuators and door latches are separate components. The actuator slides onto the door latch via two metal guides located on the door latch. The actuator is held into place with a plastic locking tab. The locking tab is part of the actuator housing. 9. This tab has to be pushed in to release actuator from latch. 10. Find on ouside of door - rear where the latch fingers? (I don't know what else to call them) are located in the notched door frame. At the bottom of the notch is a very narrow opening, just a ****. This **** allows access to the locking tab on the actuator. 11. Orient the screw driver in the end of the **** closest to the interior. Working on a right door, looking at the locking fingers, facing the front of the rig, your screw driver would be inserted at the left side of the ****. Pushing a flat screw driver into the **** will push the locking tab allowing the actuator to slide off the door latch. 12. A flat screw driver or other small pry tool can be inserted between the actuator and the door lock to help slide the actuator off the metal guides. The pry unit can be inserted where the rod from the interior manual door lock stem is attached. Mine had a yellow snap/flip keeper. 13. The actuator slides off from the interior towards the outside door panel. 14. Simple put pressure onto the locking tab with one screw driver and gently pry with the other one and the actuator should slide right off.
15. I picked up an actuator at a u-pull it wrecking yard for five bucks and it worked fine. Dealer wanted $90.00 and auto parts wanted $127.00. When I pulled my actuator from the wrecked rig all door panels and interior where stripped. It took me literally 20 seconds to pull the actuator. 16. To install new unit slide actuator onto door latch rails and let locking tab click into place. You might have to manually move the interior door lock stem up and down until the finger on the actuator lines up with a hole on the plastic part of the interior lock stem.
16. I Want to thank TommyRox in Texas on Ford Truck World and rivguy on automotiveforums.com for their posts.