Unplug the air flow meter and carefully look at each connector.
Theese are bad about corroding between the coonctors and the air flow meters. Make up a very tiny little sharp objrct that you can munipulate with your hand it must have the capabitly of scrapeing small pins in confined areas to clean them. It is time consuming but worth the effort. very carefully, scrape each connector on both sides (if it is the female connector you will have to be patient because you can bend the the little arms that the pins slide into) Scrape them thoroughly EACH AND EVERY ONE OF THEM!
Then scrape the surface areas (or pins which plug into the plug you just cleaned) Ideally get some diaelectric grease, you can buy a small tube at youyour local parts house. It's a white grease. (This will keep the connector from corroding again) Pack it into the plug you just cleaned and then plug it back into the air flow meter.
MAKE SURE YOU AREN'T STARTING OUT WITH FOULED PLUGS! I'm willing to bet, based on your description, if it's accurate and the air flow meter is good and has not been tampered with, you car should improve significantly. let me know.
SOURCE: nstruction on how to remove original front dash
There is a procedure in the factory service manual: http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html
Hope this helps!
Todd in Idaho
'69 510
'83 280ZXT
'91 300ZXTT
SOURCE: how to change u-joints on 1983 datsun 280zx
depending on your experience you can use a large machinists vise and a hammer or a hydraulic press. if you don't have the skills remove and take the driveshaft to your local machineshop for installation of new part. some rebuilders will exchange complete shaft readybuilt to save time.
SOURCE: 1983 Datsun 280zx has the sensor light on, why??
You went over 30,000 miles and it is a one time trip in the odometer. Remove the right knee panel and there is a green w/ yellow stripe wire. Unplug it. The sensor light should go out.
SOURCE: i need the torque for all the head bolts on my
Check this information for 1983 Datsun 280ZX 2.8L (click over image for zoom)...
Fig. 7: Cylinder head bolt removal sequence
Fig. 13: Head bolt torquing sequence-1970-83 models
After repair job, temporarily install and tighten the two center (right and left) cylinder head bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (18 Nm).
Install the camshaft sprocket together with the timing chain onto the camshaft. Make sure that the marks made earlier, line up. If the chain will not stretch over the sprocket, the problem lies in the tensioner. Refer to the Timing Chain removal and installation procedure for the timing procedure, if necessary.
Install the cylinder head bolts. Note that two lengths are used. Tighten the bolts in sequence.
1970-71 models:
Tighten the bolts to 33 ft. lbs. (43 Nm)
Tighten the bolts to 47 ft. lbs. (61 Nm)
1972 models:
Tighten the bolts to 47 ft. lbs. (61 Nm)
Tighten the bolts to 55 ft. lbs. (71 Nm)
1973-83 models:
Tighten the bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (39 Nm)
Tighten the bolts to 44 ft. lbs. (57 Nm)
Tighten the bolts to 54-61 ft. lbs. (70-79 Nm)
To complete the installation, reverse the removal procedures. Adjust the valves to a preliminary COLD clearance of 0.2mm for the intake and 0.25mm for the exhaust. Operate the engine until it is at normal operating temperature, retighten the head bolts (loosen them slightly and retighten to the final torque figure) and adjust the valves to the HOT clearance specifications.
Hope this helps; remember to rating this answer and leave some testimonial comment about this.
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