Question about Mercedes-Benz Cars & Trucks
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: expansion valve location
raven 1g: Your car doesn't use an expansion valve. It uses a fixed orifice tube which is located in the smaller of the two A/C lines, just before they enter the cabin area of the car.
Just disconnect the line and pull the orifice tube out of the line. Be careful not to break off anything and leave it in the line.
Posted on May 10, 2009
its the funny looking metal valve that looks like it has a flat hat on it with copper tubeing, its on the presure line running to the accumullator on most systems but could be near coils on condensor or evap i hope this helps a little do a parts search at a parts store or get a diagram publis library has it for free they make you a copy thsi system is under pressure becarful thsi can get tricky to get right there are a lot of things that have to be done just right to fix a air conditioner good luck let me know if i can help hope i did ,and didnt confuse you be safe
Posted on Apr 04, 2010
Grand Am has an expansion valve. Link below has part number and picture of what you are looking for.
Unfortunately, I do not know precisely. But for the most part auto a/c's are all the same. Below I will describe how to find it. I have also included a aguide to determine system operability that may or may not be helpful. Just trace the system with flow path described below the valve has to be between condensor and evaporator.
Reminder the flow for the a/c system is :
1. From the compressor a high pressure (HP) gas goes to the condenser in front of the radiator.
2. From the condenser a HP liquid goes to an expansion device (orifice tube or expansion valve)
3. From expansion device the low pressure gas enters the firewall to the evaporator.
4. From evaporator the low pressure liquid/gas mixture goes through the dryer back to the compressor suction.
Below is a guide to troubleshoot and check system function. This can be done by most folks.
Look at the front of the ac compressor and have someone turn on the ac from inside the car. The front of the pulley(clutch) will spin when turned on.
If it does not spin, the low pressure switch (LPS) is not satisfied. Meaning there is not enough freon in the system to operate the system. Means low freon capicity because of a leak.
The LPS can be jumpered to cause the compressor to run (clutch to engaged) which will draw the freon in the system.
The LPS is usually a two wire sensor on the suction of the compressor. (between evaporator and compressor) Unplug the sensor and install a jumper, this will engage the clutch. Connect a new can of freon
and fill to system capacity.
The capacity of the ac system will be on a label under the hood, do not overfill. Probably about 2 lbs. Local parts stores (Auto Zone and Advance) will have freon with stop leak. This may help the leak. They also make a freon with a UV dye. I always add a single can with dye so that if stop leak does not work I can find the leak in the future.
The system should be filled until suction pressure is about 30 to 38 psi..
Posted on May 31, 2010
Check out your main lights relay and the associated fuse. If you have someone switch the lights on whilst your under the hood you should be able to hear the relay 'click' as the contacts are brought together. If the relay is dead check that when the switch is turned on that power is getting through to the relay. If the relay is clicking check that power is coming out of the Switched circuit. Now check the fuse, note this will only carry power if the dashboard switch is on and the relay is functioning. Check your bulbs
Posted on Jun 07, 2010
I am in the process of doing the same procedure on my 2001 durango 5.9... condensor, compressor, accumulator, followed by both front and rear expansion valves. I pulled the rear passenger side trim off after following the pipes to the back. It looks like the expansion vale is the first component hooked to the pipes just as they come through the body into the cabin. It appears to be wrapped in a black sticky mat... I did not unwrap yet so it may not be... What are your failure symptoms? I have a slow leak and a blockage inside the system to where it cannot be fully charged without releasing pressure from the rear of the compressor. I sure hope its not in the evaporator core...
Posted on Jul 02, 2010
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