The problems is I have had 3 that has been rebuilt and not one of them works. When the engine is cold it run find but as it get warm and you give it gas it wants to die out, but them pick it self up and drive ok.(does it in park or driving it). (new fuel filter and rebuilt carb) the motor is a 78 . It doesn't have any vacumn leaks and idles fine.If you can help let me know. Thanks (it is a 66 carburator with heat choke and auto trans)
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Re: I have a 66 ford mustang 1 barrel carburator
Have you check the curb idle adjustment?have you checked fuel pressure?how does it act without vaccum hooked to the distributor?or you may have to ****** the timing a little to keep up.My old 1969 mustang 351 ran like that and i cheated the timing and it did so much for me,other than that its sure time consuming
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lots of possibilitys, 1. blown fuse 2. low on refrigerant, will not let the pully to engage 3 nothing bad about fords, but they use plastic for air dams, inside of the hot and cold deck 4. try to change from cold to hot if it does not change refer to 3. hope this helps
should adjust the butterfly to about 3/8" opening at 50 degrees farenheit when engine is cold. Usually about 1 mark to the lean side on the choke spring housing. If unsure set the choke to the center mark than richen up one mark at a time until the engine starts and idles up when cold after properly setting choke by fully depressing and releasing the accelerator before cranking. If it doesn't idle up enough turn up the fast idle screw 1/2 turn at a time. Another common problem with the YFA is the choke heat riser tube rusting off at the manifold and the choke not unloading when the engine warms. Install a new riser tube after using a drill bit the same diameter as the tube to drill out the remainder of the old tube in manifold before inserting the new tube and attaching to choke housing.
I love older cars. If they get gas and get fire, something occurs. I really would like more detail on what's happening with the car (symptoms)... but I'll throw a few bones out there.
If the engine is dying while driving, I would have to check out a few things...
Fuel issues, assuming the fuel pump is ok:
1. If it tends to die as you give it gas, it's possible the fuel filter is clogged enough to starve the carburator.
2. Is the carburator flooding out?... should be able to smell gas and it wouldn't want to crank readily.
3. Is there condensation in the carburator from "bad gas"? Get a fuel addative and pour it in your tank. It'll evaporate condensation build-up in the tank and carb as you run the engine.
1. If it runs great at all revolutions but suddenly dies, I would look at any loose wiring connections at the coil. Also check the hot wire to the coil and insure it isn't arcing on the engine due to burned off insulation.
2. Make sure your points/condensor are good and points gapped properly.
3. If it backfires out the carburator or exhaust when you give it gas, the timing is off a hair...
I may have missed a point or two, but these are pretty basic trouble spots. I hope we nailed it.
Cool car, by the way!
Hope this helped... Good luck!
That's because the 302 and the 260 don't share the same accessory bolt patterns. If it's a dealer installed AC the mounting may be "custom". If you still have the original engine, transfer the bolt hole positions, drill and tap. Good luck. Measure twice!
If you are like me You only want someone to Answer this that has been there. The Carb needs Adjustment. One barrels are Notorius for loosing Adjustment, Especially since it is the Original. Drop me an E-Mail and I will send you Pics of MY Babies!!!! MrScary6661313@aol.com