Question about Cars & Trucks
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Battery going dead 2001 BMW 330i
Whenever a car has this type of a problem, it is normally because of poor connections, belt slippage *severe*, or - very possibly, something is putting an excessive drain on the battery when it is not running.
My experiences have been to first check that ALL the connections are totally clean - especially check your battery posts and make sure they are tight with very good - surface-to-surface contact. Remove BOTH connectors on the posts and clean with battery post cleaning tool *wire brush* and then use the spray that stops / limits corrosion.
Are you sure that battery IS OK? Take it in for a load test - old batteries often deteriorate over time *sealed or not* and it just might be time for a new one. Get the biggest 1 that will fit in where it is held. More amperage *rating* is always better.
Poor connections often happen during cold weather season *expansion and contraction cause this*.
BAck to connections again - VISUALLY inspect ALL your cables/wires for discoloration. Connections need to be tight - end-to-end in the charging system. I am not sure if the car has a starting relay or not - and if so - where it IS located. THAT TOO is a problematic area due to poor connections that quite often, just may need to be cleaned.
Are you sure your alternator IS good --- are it's belt nice and tight- but not too tight? Speaking of the belt ... look on the inside track of the belt - has it been replaced recently or is the rubber in poor shape *splits, showing sign of extreme heat from slipping etc*. When you have a load test - that test alone will indicate whether it IS charging even if everything is running like A/C, radio, light, wipers. Check you gauge inside the car - IF it has one - and no matter what RPM ~ it should still be charging *showing positive charging - NOT discharging*. Lastly - the alternator OUTPUT -- is it the right one for that car - correct rating???
There are even more areas worthwhile checking ... but unless you have the correct tools and diagnostic equipment - it can be tough to nail-down the right specific problem. A lot of places *like Sears* will have that - and used to not charge for the diagnostic - because they wanted to sell you THEIR battery.
One more thing .... most cars will have some minor drain due to clocks running, alarm working and so on. HOWEVER - if a light *like an interior or truck light* remains on, that will give you a larger drain.
A battery should never go dead while driving - and your light *running lights* should always be bright .. are yours??????
Hope this helps!
Posted on Mar 31, 2009
your battery is dead!! Even if jumped, if the battery is dead celled it will not have sufficient power to crank. Dead celled batteries will hold a charge momentarily then slowly die again. I recommend temporarily swapping a battery from another vehicle to try and start your ES300. This is to make sure it isnt the starter or alternator thats the problem. To test the alternator, use a voltmeter at the battery terminals (w/car started and running) to check voltage should be (13.5-14.5 volts). If you do not have a voltmeter,(old school way) simply start the car, while engine running pull the positive terminal off the battery(make sure NOT to ground the positive terminal). If the vehicle dies, possible alternator or alt circuit failure. Bring it to autozone or advance auto to test for free. Hopefully this helps...please rate...thanks
Posted on Aug 08, 2009
SOURCE: 95 F250 not starting
You said you tightened the battery cables, did you check the other end of the negative where it bolts to the engine. When you tightened the cables you also used a battery brush and cleaned the posts and ends?
Posted on Mar 27, 2010
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