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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
So this is what it takes to replace rear brake rotors on a 2003 Mercedes E320;
1) open the bonnet (hood) of the car and loosen/remove the cap off of the brake fluid resevior.
2) remove outer spring clamp from brake assembly (it clips in to the iner edge of the holes of the caliper).
3)using a 7 MM allen wrench, remove the brake caliper.
4) using 18 MM box wrench, remove the caliper housing assembly off of the wheel hub.
5) using a star wrench, unscrew the rotor locking screw from the rotor
6) squirt some liquid wrench on the rotor hub and knock the rotor with a hammer to work the liquid wrench in.
7) using the same hammer, knock the rotor off the hub.
8) using a metal file, lightly file old residue off of the hub and place the new rotor on the hub.
9) set the hub by screwing in the lug nuts and then screw in the hub locking screw using the star wrench, then remove the lug nuts.
10) reinstall the caliper housing assembly onto the wheel hub using the 18 MM box wrench.
11) push back the brake claiper piston to its home position and install the inner brake pad (the one with the snap clips)
12) insert the outer brake pad in the claper housing assembly.
13) slide on the caliper housing with the inner brake pad in place (over the outer brake pad) and screw in the caliper screw rods using the 7 MM allen wrench
14) on the right wheel brakes, DO NOT FORGET to slide in the brake sensor (the one with the black connector) and connect it to the connector on the caliper housing.
15) be sure to reinsert the spring clamp onto the outer brake assembly to set the assembly squarely onto the wheel (there should be no wiggle in the brake assembly after the spring clamps are installed).
16) finally mount the wheels.
17) you can bleed the brakes at this point to release any trapped air (which is unlikely) but be sure to pump the brakes after starting the car BUT BEFORE MOVING IT to re-preassurize the brake system before driving the car.
17) ONE WEEK LATER - recheck brake assembly to ensure all is okay and brake fluid.
This proposed solution is for a 2003 Mercedes Benz E320 and NOT a 2005 model as stated by the limited option selection provided by FIXYA.com when initially describing the problem.
Posted on Jul 10, 2008
Replace rear rotors on 04 liberty.
Remove tire & wheel
Remove brake caliper, tie up out of way.
Back off e-brake shoe adjustment.
Remove factory spring clip from lugs (2places)
This is the crude part....
After attempting to pull off disc/drum with puller....I got pretty sick of it. Understand this is in the Northeast with lots of salt on the roads in winter. Needless to say there is a ridge of rust around the inside edge of the e-brake surface. Any more pressure and I was afraid of damage to the e-brake shoe asembly. I then took a small grinder with a cut off wheel and cut the disc thru (used space where caliper usually sits). Also cut nearly through the face between 2 lugs. You can't quite get thru the back corner at the disc. Since the material is cast iron it will crack when you drive a wedge in the slot cut in the disc. This opens the housing around the shoes and it slides off easily. The cutting operation took less than10 mins, alot less than the puller with hammer assist!
I know this is a bit "unorthodox" to say the least, however the object is to remove the old junk disc safely and as quickly as possible, without harming the e-brake parts inside.
Install new parts in reverse order, new pads go in easy after squeezing the caliper piston back with a c clamp as is the normal procedure.
Posted on Mar 22, 2009
With the key in position 1, hit the odometer reset button on the left on the cluster 3 times in a row. The cluster should beep once. scroll through the multifunction display with the page buttons until the display shows the onboard voltage screen. It will say something like "UB: 12.2 V" scroll threw this menu with with the up/down until you reach the "service menu" page. scroll down to "confirmation" press +, confirm full service with +. Wait till it says service confirmed. cycle the key off and then back on to position 2. Scroll to the normal service menu where it normally says how many days or miles till next service. If the service was reset correctly, it will say "service display not possible" for a few minutes while it recalculates. You must cycle the key off and back on before it will back out of the onboard diagnostic mode. If you dont back out, the esp/abs/bas lights will illuminate when the car is started
Posted on Apr 13, 2009
depending on the pollution in your area. two to three thousand oh yeah keep in mind synthetic oil is far superior, to non synthetic.
so pic a good oil.
Posted on Apr 16, 2009
There is a special tool you need to do this. It is virtually impossible to do without this tool. I got mine from Harbor Freight for $20. the kit comes in an small orange case and has multiple heads and it pushes and turns at the same time. Do not use a C-clamp, it will damage the piston. This tool still does use some manual labor, but it is worth it when you save a few hundred dollars doing it yourself!
Posted on May 08, 2009
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