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Replace differential support bushing - 2007 Cadillac SRX

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Posted on Oct 12, 2013

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What are common problems for vz 2005 holden


Window rattles
Timing chain noise (expensive)
Differential noisy
Worn strut bushes
Worn suspension arm bushes
Worn steering rack mount bushes
Warped brake rotors causing shudder
Faulty radiator cap
Rear alignment problems causing tyre wear

Feb 13, 2015 | Holden Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Alright so here is my problem, i have a 2005 grand cherokee, when i first bought it every now and then when i was driving down a hill and let my foot of the gas i would hear a little clunk in the...


All cars do this a little because of the tranny tail bushing, drive shaft U joints, differential input bushing, and differential ring and pinion. But 4WD does it more because of the transfer box as well.
Check the differential fluid level, twist the drive shaft looking for slop, but also push up and down where the shaft goes into the tranny and the differential.

May 06, 2011 | 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee

2 Answers

Violent clunking when truck starts moving. checked obd codes nothing showed up. possibly engine mounts or bushings?


It's hard to tell, from your description, as to the extent of the clunking.
If it seems to only and constantly occur whenever in forward motion, bumps or not, then I would first check your rear differential, (if 4x4 then your front differential as well).
Check fluid level(s) and if okay, remove cover and check for worn gears and any metal shavings on the magnet on bottom of housing.

Worn gears can toss your vehicle around, any make stomach turning clunks and other awful noises. I've recently replaced a front differential on a 1994 Dakota. It would make same clunks as you describe and a few times would make my back end seem to 'hop' while driving highway speeds. I would check this quickly.

If it only seems to happen over bumps, then your guess on engine mounts or bushings is probably the best guess.

Jan 07, 2011 | 1996 Dodge Dakota

2 Answers

Rear popping in 1986 300ZX


nope there is a bushing that is in the rear mount that holds the differential in place this is what it is just replace it ....its a dealer only part

Sep 07, 2009 | 1986 Nissan 300ZX

1 Answer

2000 Grand Cherokee Upper Ball Joint


Illustration of control arm:
http://www.penguinscouts.com/pics/jeep/Differential%20Suspension.jpg

The wishbone part, number 12, is the control arm. In the two ends, left side of picture, are the two bushings. These are pressed in bushings.

The rubber bushings, with their bonded steel shells, are separate parts, the part number for the (2) bushings are: 52088425

These bushings normally won't be damaged, but, in my case, due to extensive towing of a heavy trailer, these bushings had tears in the rubber bonding between the shell and the central spindle. These tears caused by the trailer snatching the frame around (trailer hitch is frame mounted) while the differential is essentially connected to the earth, through the tire rubber, and to the frame, through the ball joint and arm rubber bushings.

You can easily view the condition of the rubber simply by rolling under the vehicle with a flashlight, and looking. The bolts are vertical, right up through the bushing spindle, into the frame.

The bolts through the bushing spindle mount the arm to the frame.

The ball joint, at the apex of the arm, is number 8, and is Jeep part number 52088808AB.

This ball joint is an assembly which also includes the mounting flange plate. This plate bolts atop the differential housing with three bolts. The ball joint pin protrudes through the hole in the apex of the arms, and is secured by a nut, item 11, Jeep part number 06502698

Again, don't replace the bushings unless you see visible tears in the rubber web, or rotted, aged, cracked out webbing.

One more thing to note if you take down the arm... the emergency brake cables and brake lines are secured to the arm with small metal clips and bolts. Minor point here is when you reattach these bolts, don't crank down on them more than about 12 ft lbs torque, as these bolts go into the sheet metal wall of the arm, and there's no need to try to strip out these threads... Just secure them a bit, not to tank down on them.

Oct 06, 2008 | 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

Steering and suspension problem


try the front differential link bushings, check them for wear, you can buy new arms with the bushing in them from the dealer its much easier then pressing out and in all 8 bushings -jeff please rate

Sep 11, 2008 | 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

Hummer h2 transfer case


Only way for this to happen on an H2 (AWD) is for something to break rearward of the lockup hub. Take a look at the splines between the intermediate shaft and centerdifferential or even the teeth on the forward sun gear and/or stepped pinion on the center diff.

As long as you have the t-case torn down for repair be sure to upgrade to the new aluminum mode fork (production upgrade to old plastic forks thru end of 2007 or so). You should also upgrade the rear half of the housing to the 2008 version which has a pressed-in rear prop bushing (better bushing and is also replaceable.

Aug 05, 2008 | 2004 Hummer H2

4 Answers

CLUNKING NOISE FROM REAR AXLE


Problem I found: Clunk when driving over even small bumps.

If Grand Cherokee is 1999-2004, then check this: Above the differential is a wishbone cross member control arm. The cross member attaches to the frame in front of the rear axle (bolts through rubber bushings), and directly above the differential, at the apex of the cross member, is a ball joint. The ball joint assembly is a flange bolted atop the differential, with three bolts, and the ball joint pin protrudes from the flange through the cross member apex, with a nut atop the pin. Raise the frame slightly, and with a pry bar, pry above the flange, and below the cross member, very near the ball joint. If any motion is detected, then the ball joint is worn from the ball joint socket, or the nut is loose on the ball joint pin. If the nut is tight, then replace the ball joint. 2000 GC part number is 52088808AB, and is available from online sources or dealers. To replace this part, you'll probably need to remove the cross member, as the ball joint pin through the cross member is in a tight location, is tightly wedged into the cross member, and requires a special v-shaped puller to remove the pin from the cross member. If you don't have access to the puller tool, then remove the cross member for this operation. Raise vehicle slightly, under frame, in front of rear wheels. Unbolt the brake line and brake cable retainers from the cross member, then unbolt the flange from atop the differential. Then remove the two frame bolts and manipulate the cross member out of the vehicle, from above the differential.

With the cross member before you, support on blocks, loosen the ball joint nut somewhat, or remove it, and with a beater protective block, sledge out the pin from the cross member. Inspect the rubber bushings at this time. These bushings require an arbor press to remove/install, and the arbor press to install requires a spider so as to not rip the rubber bushing from either the bushing shell or center spool. The press spider is a 4-point tool you can make up from a piece of aluminum.

Bolt the new ball joint flange atop the differential, using blue thread locker, and torque the bolts to 100 ft-lb, cheater pipe useful here.

Replace the cross member to the frame, and install the two frame bolts, finger tight. Pull the member apex down onto the ball joint pin, and run the nut down. Using a box end wrench, hold the pin from rotation while tightening down the nut. Torque the nut to 100 ft-lb. Tighten the frame attachment bolts to 100 ft-lb, and reinstall the brake cable and brake line retainers. Do not over tighten these retainer bolts, as they are passing only through the sheet steel side of the cross member. Take care to not strip the sheet metal threadings. Lower vehicle and remove jack.

May 15, 2008 | 2000 Jeep Cherokee

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