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Sedona glowplug light flashing - 2003 Kia Sedona

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HI. this warning has been initiated due to a malfunction that has been detected in one or more of the glow plugs in the engine compartment.

Normally, when this light illuminates, its because of a failed glow plug and you will need to replace the failed plug in order for the light to shut off. this replacement can be done at your local mechanic shop or dealership as well.

It could be as simple as a worn or broken wire clips as well but, its bets to take it in fo ra full inspection so that the actual issue can be repaired correctly.

Please rate and god bless:)

Posted on Apr 23, 2009

  • graeme
    graeme Oct 12, 2013

    very helpfull and quick thank you

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Glowplug light flashing on ford mondeo mk2


you have the engine malfunction light,the orange with the engine block with the lightning strike?if yes,youe problem is a broken glowplug,if you do not have the engine light,the ptoblem is electrical fault,should read out the error codes then...

May 01, 2014 | 2002 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

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MY 93 FORD 350 7.3 I PUT SWITCH ON AND START CLICKING RIGHT AWAY BEFORE WILL TAKE FEW MINUTES SEEMS LIKE T GLOW PLUG IS NOT WORKING RIGHT IF I PLUG THE ENGINE WILL START WITH NO PROBLEM ,SOME PEOPLE


This is not to hard to solve. The outside airtemp determines how long the Glowplug timer works for absolute cold starts. Starting a warm engine is affected by underhood temps.

The Timer Relay will pulse power to the glowplugs. If the glowplugs are good, it is enough to preheat the cylinder for firing.

To tell if a glowplug is good is a matter of comparision between a new glowplug and a worn glowplug. YOU CAN MELT A GLOWPLUG WITH THIS TEST, but you remove the glowplugs, get a set of battery jumper cables and place one jumper to the base of the glowplug USING CARE not to ruin the threads on the glowplug.

You do not want to arc the spark on the glowplug threads. You want your fixed jumper connector locked on the base of the glowplug. The other battery cable jumper is touched to the top of the glowplug where the arcing occurs. This will not hurt the contact point if done properly.

You compare the "glow" of the old glowplug to the "glow" of the new glowplug. Bad glowplugs stay dark or operate at a darker color.

The Timer Relay gives you pulses and that is all the glowplugs get to heat up. This is what you simulate in your test. If a glowplug operates in a dull or dark condition, it is bad and throw it away. You want all glowplugs to readily light up when power is applied.

The other 2 parts to the system are the Timer Relay and the Power Relay. The timer gets its power from the Power Relay and the Power Relay is like a starter solenoid. The Power relay gets a tickler charge when the keyswitch is held to Start.

There are sometimes extreme cold Timers that hold the power longer tothe glowplugs. I do not have the Specs to tell you if your Timer is kicking out to soon.

I hope my solution helps. I have told you how to test your glowplugs. The timers are affected by air temperature and that makes it difficult to say if it is working long enough. If you know the glowplugs are good, and the timer shuts off before the glowplugs heat up, then you need a new or different type of timer.

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HARD STARTING IN THE MORNING [DIESEL ENGINE]


Hello, The diesel engine relies on Glowplugs for the first start in the Morning or a cold start at anytime.

The Glowplugs themselves can be bad, but there is a Timer which determines how long the Glowplugs will stay on. Before the Timer is a Glowplug Relay which gives the Timer its power to operate. The Ignition switch provides power to the Glowplug Relay.

You disconnect a Glowplug wire, put on a test instrument (either a testlight or Voltmeter) and look to see what happens when you initiate a start. If the testlight lights and cycles a few times like a pulse, then the power supply is good. If not inspect the Timer and Glowplug Relay for continuity

If all the pulses seem to reach the Glowplugs, then most likely the Glowplugs are worn out. Test by removing then and connecting battery jumpers. Briefly touch the top terminal of the Glowplug with the Hot cable after grounding the negative cable on the base of the Glowplug, avoiding the threads.

You can melt a Glowplug. But if you find the Glowplug staying dark, then it is bad. Do this for all the Glowplugs and replace the bad ones. Remember the Glowplug only has the amount of time the Timer gives it to work. So if a few pulses do not make it Glow, then replace it. This should fix you up.

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Change out glow plugs


Hello, Its just like changing sparkplugs. First, you should check the timer for proper operation before blaming the glowplugs. The timer is the part where the wires on the glowplugs come from. Its' the Timers job to heat up the glowplugs and there is a Relay which activates the timer.

Once the Timer gets power from the Relay, it sends spark to the glowplugs and measures the amount of juice flowing through the glowplugs. When a predetermined limit is achieved, the Timer shuts down and sets a light on the dashboard that you can start the engine.

If you have a bad glowplug, that cylinder will not fire cold and the engine will miss, run rough , and spew black smoke out the tailpipe. A complete changeout of the glowplugs will solve the problem, but individual glowplugs can be tested and changed independently at a lower cost.

To test a glowplug, you can use jumper cables and apply voltage to the glowplug in limited amounts or you will melt the glowplug. Best to place the negative on the base and avoid the threads. Then touch the top of the glowplug and watch to see how quick it turns bright. Its a matter of comparison, and the darker the glowplug stays, the worse it is.

There is no adjustment on the glowplug, just swap them out and you will be fine. I hope my solution is very helpful to you. You can check the Timer with a voltmeter by removing a glowplug wire and hooking the hot lead from your meter and grounding the other wire on your engine. When you turn the key to the warmup position, the meter should briefly show power.

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Hard starting first thing in the morning when it is cold outside want to see if all the glow plugs are working


Best way to check the glowplugs is to remove them and connect each one to a set of Battery jumper cables. You connect the Neg side to the metal sides of the bottom of the glowplug taking care not to mar the glowplug thread. Then take the POS to the top of the glowplug and touch it.

You can actually melt the glowplug. But judging if the glowplug is good is a matter of comparision. Once you get a good one that lights up quickly, you can judge the rest by how quickly it lights up or if it stays dark.

You can test the individual wires to the glowplug with a test light. You will be limited by the timer which will vary the length of time it powers the glowplug by outside temperature. The timer will also respond to engine heat. That is why the timer does not cycle when the engine has just been restarted.

Once you determine if the glowplugs are good, you can work your way up to the timer. You could have a sticking solenoid inside the Injector pump and be getting a dry start. I hope my solution gives you a very good idea on how to check your system. You can use the reply feature for more questions.

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On a 1992 ford diesel 7.3 L cold it start run good, but after setting 30 min. you go to start it again and it will not start. If you turn the key on and off about four or five times it will start with a...


It sounds like your Glowplug timer or the Glowplugs are bad. The reason that turning the Key 4 or 5 times helps, is that everytime you put the Key to RUN or START you are energizing the Glowplug timer and reheating the Glowplugs.

You can check the Glowplugs by removing them and remove at least 1 bank at a time. Get some jumper cables and put the NEG post on the plug without smashing the threads. Take the POS cable and touch the Glowplug till it starts to Glow. You can mess up and melt the Glowplug so watch it. BUT, as you test you will find the bad Glowplugs will not light or will take longer to light up.

This is the reason I said to take out 4 plugs at a time, minimum, because you need to compare bad and good, visually.

The timer is not as easy to test. It is a variable timer and the warmer an engine is, the less time it will work. Obviously if the Glowplugs are not Hot, the timer is cutting off too early. But you check your Glowplugs first. The Glowplugs help to give a Feedback loop which tells the timer to stay on.

The rough idle is because the glowplug is not hot or the compression is bad in the cylinder.

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A relay in the dash board ic clicking and truck wont start its a 1999 f250 super duty diesel. it turns over but wont start. i just installed new fuel pump its working fine


It sounds like the "Timer" for the glowplugs, but you may want to prime the Fuelfilter to provide a draw for the fuel. One of the problems is you lost the fuel in the lines as soon as the fuelpump was disconnected.

If you installed the fuelpump because of a "NO start" condition it may have been the Glowplug timer all along. You may have taken a wire loose for the Timer or broken a wire. The Timer box needs feedback from the Glowplugs.

Disconnect one of the Glowpug wires and put in a test light to the wire. Observe when you put the engine in RUN position if the Testlight will light up. If the Testlight does not light, you are not getting power to the Glowplugs.

Diesels need Glowplugs only for starting. After that, the compression operates the engine. The Timer for the Glowplugs regulates how long the Glowplugs work each cycle. You may have to test the Glowplugs if they get power but do not work.

Each Glowplug is like a sparkplug. You would need to pull them and connect 12 Volts to each. Use a jumper cable and do not touch the threads. Use power sparingly or you can melt them. But 1 by 1 you can see a difference in a bad or good glowplug by how each gets hot.

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KIA SEDONA WORKS WHEN IT FEELS LIKE IT


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