Leak at rear diff (pinion seal?) 03 4X4 ford ranger
I have a 03 Ford ranger that has a leak at the rear diff where the drive shaft hooks into the differential plate. It appears there is a plastic lipped washer and the fluid is coming from there. I believe its a pinon seal problem. I called two mechanics. 1 dealer and 1 corporate chain tire center. One place said it will take a 18.00 part and 7.5 hrs labor. The other one said it will take two hours labor and 50+ or - in fluid and parts for the repair. Who should I trust?
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Re: leak at rear diff (pinion seal?) 03 4X4 ford ranger
The part is called the pinion flange seal, pull the drive shaft, remove the large nut on the flange the drive shaft connects to and remove the flange, then pry out the old seal and lube the lip of the new seal with motor oil and press it into the opening. The 7.5 hour estimate is way wrong, about 1.5 hours labor and $4 for the part.
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Remove the front drive shaft remove the drive yoke off the pinion shaft remove the old seal install new seal install front drive shaft. PS check pinion bearing play before removing drive yolk. if it is loose then you might also need bearings
if you have never done one its best to take to dealer because you have to remove drive shaft and then rear pinion nut and remove seal the tricky part is you have to buy new crush sleeve and thats what sets your pinon depth so that pinion rides in middle of ring gear its called setting your pinion depth if over tighten will hurt bearings and or ring gear and if under tighten will be verry noisey and cause ring and pinion failure best to let someone with special tools and knows what thier doing i use to do all chevy diff at my old dealer your use inch torque wrench to measure the drag on pinion nut and then use 1/2 inch impack to tighten the nut people freak because impack is rated at 600 ft pds but your using inch torque wrench to check drag not how tight nut is good luck
if it is leaking from the front of the diff where the drive line goes into it you have to drop the rear of the drive shaft from the diff, if you look at the flange on the diff where the driveshaft bolted to you will see a nut, possibly about 25 to 30mm, you have to remove the nut and remove the flange off the spline of the input shaft of the diff, the nut is really tight and it is difficult to get enough pressure on the nut to "crack it" while the car is on the ground as there is not enough room to get a long bar on the socket to remove the nut.
if you happen to get the nut loose and you remove the flange get a big screwdriver and pry the seal out of the diff, check the surface where the seal ran on the input shaft as it may have a groove worn into it, if it has the groove the new seal will still leak, they make a sleeve you can slide over the shaft to give the seal a good surface to run on, we call them a speedy sleeve here but not sure what they may call them there. replace everything in the reverse order that you removed it and don't forget to tension the big nut that holds the flange onto the input shaft
leaking where? axle shafts? pinion seal? diff cover?
should inspect diff internals and bearings-may require overhaul not just
seal replacment. also check vent tube-if plugged will cause all seals to leak.
The final drive (diff) could be low or out of oil. Have a look around inside of the rear wheels for any oil leaks. Also ckeck the pinion seal. But get oil into the filler plug before you do anyting else.
It should be that easy if the leak is from the gasket. If it from the seal, you will have to remove the drive shaft from the differential and remove the seal and put in a new one. Either way, the repair is fairly easy.
Yes, but you will need to mark the yoke position and exact number of turns to remove the nut or you will change ring and pinion gear lash setting when re-installing it. You can use a large pipe wrench to hold the yoke still while tightening, or get a special tool made for that.
SECTION 205-02B: Rear Drive Axle/Differential — Ford 8.8-Inch Ring Gear
2003 Mustang Workshop Manual
Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
Remove the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
Remove the rear brake disc (2C026). For additional information, refer to Section 206-04 .
Remove the differential housing cover (4033) and drain the lubricant. For additional information, refer to Differential Housing Cover in this section.
Remove the differential pinion shaft (4211).
Remove the differential pinion shaft lock bolt (4241).
Remove the differential pinion shaft.
CAUTION: Do not damage the rubber O-ring in the axle shaft groove. Remove the U-washer (4N237).
Push the axle shafts (4234) inboard.
Remove the U-washer.
CAUTION: Damage to the rear brake anti-lock sensor (2C190) may occur if it is not removed before the axle shaft. Carefully remove the rear brake anti-lock sensor. For additional information, refer to Section 206-09A .
CAUTION: Do not damage the wheel bearing oil seal. Remove the axle shaft.
Rear Wheel Bearing and Axle Shaft Oil Seal
Remove the axle shaft (4234). For additional information, refer to Axle Shaft in this section.
NOTE: If the wheel bearing oil seal is leaking, the axle housing vent may be plugged. Using the special tools, remove the rear wheel bearing and wheel bearing oil seal.
Lubricate the new rear wheel bearing with the specified lubricant.
Using the special tools, install the new rear wheel bearing.
Lubricate the lip of the new wheel bearing oil seal.
Use Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.
Using the special tools, install the new wheel bearing oil seal.
Install the axle shaft. For additional information, refer to Axle Shaft in this section.
Use Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.
CAUTION: Do not damage the wheel bearing oil seal. Install the two axle shafts.
CAUTION: Do not damage the rubber O-ring in the axle shaft groove. Install the U-washer.
Position the two U-washers on the button end of the axle shaft.
Pull the axle shaft outward.
NOTE: If a new pinion shaft lock bolt is unavailable, coat the threads with Threadlock and Sealer EOAZ-19554-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSK-M2G351-A5 prior to installation. Install the differential pinion shaft.
Align the hole in the differential pinion shaft with the case lock bolt hole.
Install a new differential pinion shaft lock bolt.
Install the differential housing cover and fill the rear axle with the specified lubrication. For additional information, refer to Differential Housing Cover in this section.
Install the rear brake anti-lock sensor. For additional information, refer to Section 206-09A .
Install the rear brakes. For additional information, refer to Section 206-04 .
Install the tire and wheel assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
remove the drive shaft at the pinion flange move it out of the way, then remove the pinion flange on the differential nose, the seal is under that, replace the seal and repalce the pinion flange nut, torque to 50 foot pounds and stake the nut like the old one, this is bending the lip of the nut over to lock it in place.
check your rear diff vent if pluged clean it out and clean up the pinion seal.sometimes if the leak is caused by pluged vent and has not been leaking long once vent is clean sometimes the leak will stop.there is not a specific torque amount because it is rotational torque(how hard to turn pinion).there is a crush sleve on the pinion and if torqued too tight or too loose brg preload will be wrong and brg damage could result.mark and remove drive shaft.remove rear wheels,brakes,axles.so when turning pinion you dont have any drag from brakes or axles.mark the position of the yoke on the pinion.remove yoke,replace seal,reinstall yoke be sure to replace pinion nut.tighten nut until it takes the exact same amount of force to turn pinion as before taking original pinion nut off.hope this helps.