Question about 1994 Chevrolet G20

1 Answer

What are the torque specs for pitman arm to steering gear nut, pitman arm to relay rod nut and tie rod to steering knuckle on a 1994 Chevy G20 Van?

Posted by on

Ad

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Top Expert:

    An expert who has finished #1 on the weekly Top 10 Fixya Experts Leaderboard.

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

  • Chevrolet Master
  • 44,416 Answers

Sheering box nut shaft will be 120 ft/lb tie rod joints are 30-40ft/lb

Posted on Oct 12, 2013

Ad

2 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Ad
reisdos
  • 1297 Answers

SOURCE: need the torque specs for

hope this helps...

4c17033.jpg

2c46aed.jpg

Posted on May 11, 2010

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

What's the outer tie rod end torque specs for 2000 Dodge Dakota sport ?


this was copied off of the following link. should be same torque requirments-
this is off a 2004 manual,which should be real close if not exact

INSTALLATION
1. Align reference marks and install pitman arm.
2. Install the lock washer and retaining nut on the pitman
shaft and tighten nut to 251 N·m (185 ft. lbs.).
3. Install the drag link (1) to the pitman arm (5). Install
the nut (4) and tighten to 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.) Then
an additional 90°.
4. Remove the supports and lower the vehicle to the
surface. Center steering wheel> and adjust toe,
(Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
5. After adjustment tighten tie rod adjustment sleeve
clamp> bolts to 61 N·m (45 ft. lbs.).
NOTE: Position the clamp on the sleeve so retaining
bolt is located on the bottom side of the
sleeve

got it from here -

Tie rod end torque spec DodgeTalk Dodge Car Forums Dodge Truck Forums and...

Feb 23, 2015 | Dodge Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Replace cv joints


Hi Douglas, I'm glad to help. My first suggestion is to get to complete shaft. This way you want have any problems later on. It's not that much more expensive and you'll be glad you did. Below is the procedure for replacing them.



FRONT DRIVESHAFTS

REMOVAL
  1. Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. Refer to Hoisting in the Lubrication And Maintenance section of this manual for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
  2. Remove the cotter pin and nut lock Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut from the end of the stub axle.
  3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly from the vehicle.
  4. Remove the wave washer Wave Washer from the end of the stub axle CAUTION: Wheel bearing damage will result if after loosening hub nut, vehicle is rolled on the ground or the weight of the vehicle is allowed to be supported by the tires.
  5. With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, loosen and remove the stub axle to hub nut.
  6. Remove the two front disc brake caliper to steering knuckle attaching bolts Front Disc Brake Caliper Attaching Bolts
  7. Remove the disc brake caliper from the steering knuckle. Caliper is removed by first rotating top of caliper away from steering knuckle and then removing bottom of caliper out from under machined abutment on steering knuckle Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
  8. Support disc brake caliper assembly by using a wire hook and suspending it from the strut assembly Correctly Supported Disc Brake Caliper Do not allow the brake caliper assembly to hang by the brake flex hose.
  9. Remove the brake rotor from the hub and bearing assembly Remove/Install Brake Rotor
  10. Remove nut attaching outer tie rod end to steering knuckle Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut Nut is to be removed from tie rod end using the following procedure, hold tie rod end stud with a 11/32 socket while loosening and removing nut with a wrench.
  11. Remove tie rod end from steering knuckle using Remover, Special Tool MB-991113 Tie Rod End Removal From Steering Knuckle Arm
  12. Remove the steering knuckle to ball joint stud, clamping nut and bolt Control Arm To Steering Knuckle Attachment from the steering knuckle.
  13. Using a pry bar, separate steering knuckle from ball joint stud Separating Ball Joint Stud From Steering Knuckle Note: Use caution when separating ball joint stud from steering knuckle, so ball joint seal does not get cut. NOTE: Care must be taken not to separate the inner C/V joint during this operation. Do not allow driveshaft to hang by inner C/V joint after removing outer C/V Joint from the hub/bearing assembly in steering knuckle, end of driveshaft must be supported.
  14. Pull steering knuckle assembly out and away from the outer C/V joint of the driveshaft assembly Steering Knuckle Separation From Driveshaft
  15. Support the outer end of the driveshaft assembly. Insert a pry bar between inner tripod joint and transaxle case Disengaging Inner Tripod Joint From Transaxle Pry against inner tripod joint, until tripod joint retaining snap ring is disengaged from transaxle side gear.
  16. Hold inner tripod joint and interconnecting shaft of driveshaft assembly. Remove inner tripod joint from transaxle, by pulling it straight out of transaxle side gear and transaxle oil seal Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle When removing tripod joint, do not let spline or snap ring drag across sealing lip of the transaxle to tripod joint oil seal.
INSTALLATION
  1. Thoroughly clean spline and oil seal sealing surface, on tripod joint. Lightly lubricate oil seal sealing surface on tripod joint with fresh clean transmission lubricant.
  2. Holding driveshaft assembly by tripod joint and interconnecting shaft, install tripod joint into transaxle side gear as far as possible by hand Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle
  3. Grasp inner tripod joint an interconnecting shaft. Forcefully push the tripod joint into side gear of transaxle, until snap ring is engaged with transaxle side gear. Test that snap ring is fully engaged with side gear by attempting to remove tripod joint from transaxle by hand. If snap ring is fully engaged with side gear, tripod joint will not be removable by hand.
  4. Clean all debris and moisture out of steering knuckle, in the area were outer C/V joint will be installed into steering knuckle.
  5. Ensure that front of outer C/V joint which fits against the face of the hub and bearing is free of debris and moisture before installing outer C/V joint into hub and bearing assembly Outer C/V Joint Inspection
  6. Slide drive shaft back into front hub and bearing assembly. Then install steering knuckle onto the stud of the ball joint assembly Steering Knuckle Separation From Driveshaft
  7. Install a new steering knuckle to ball joint clamping bolt and nut Control Arm To Steering Knuckle Attachment Tighten the clamping bolt and nut to a torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.)
  8. Install tie rod end into steering knuckle. Start attaching nut onto stud of tie rod end. While holding stud of tie rod end stationary using a 11/32 socket, Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut tighten tie rod end to steering knuckle attaching nut. Then using a crowfoot and 11/32 socket Torquing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut , tighten the tie rod end attaching nut to a torque of 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
  9. Install braking disc on hub and bearing assembly Remove/Install Brake Rotor
  10. Install disc brake caliper assembly on steering knuckle. Caliper is installed by first sliding bottom of caliper under abutment on steering knuckle, and then rotating top of caliper against top abutment Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
  11. Install disc brake caliper assembly to steering knuckle attaching bolts Front Disc Brake Caliper Attaching Bolts Tighten the disc brake caliper assembly attaching bolts to a torque of 22 N·m (195 in. lbs.)
  12. Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the outer C/V joint stub axle. Install the washer and stub axle to hub/bearing assembly nut on stub axle and securely tighten nut.
  13. Install front wheel and tire assembly. Install and tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half the required specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.)
  14. Lower vehicle.
  15. With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, tighten the hub nut to a torque of 244 N·m (180 ft. lbs.) Torquing Front Stub Axle To Hub Nut
  16. Install the spring wave washer on the end of the stub axle.
  17. Install the hub nut lock, and a new cotter pin Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut Wrap cotter pin prongs tightly around the hub nut lock as shown in Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut
  18. Check for correct fluid level in transaxle assembly. Refer to Group 21, Transaxle for the correct fluid level checking procedure for the type of transaxle being checked.
  19. Set front toe on vehicle to required specification.

May 07, 2014 | 2000 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

How to install a pitman arm on a 1984 chevy 4x4 blazer


It's an easy but physically demanding if you do not have a pneumatic set of tools. The specialty tools you will first have to get your hands on are a Tie Rod remover. otherwise know as a (pickle fork). There are two sizes of these large for ball joint removal and small for Tie rod removal. Looks like a big 2 pronged fork. The next Tool is a Pitman arm remover. Usually you can rent or barrow them from your local auto parts store. Drive your blazer up on to a set of repair ramps. Block the rear tires.The bolt to the center link from the pitman arm has a crown nut on it with a cotter pin going threw it. Remove the cotter pin.and remove the crown nut. Then with the Pickle fork and a 5 lb. sledge hammer. place the pickle fork between the center link and the pitman arm bolt. Give the end of the Pickle fork as many good blows on the other end as it takes for the center link to release from the pitman arm. Once that is done take a break I know you'll need it. Next is the Pitman arm to the steering gear shaft. Hope you can get your hands on a good breaker bar or an impact wrench and a socket large enough for the steering gear shaft nut. Remove the nut. Then place the Pitman arm removal tool between the pitman arm and the steering gear housing. Start tightening the threaded rod the remover up against the shaft. It is hard as hell to remove because pitman arms rarely go bad. It's usually the center link that fails.It will take a lot of strength to remove and you may want to use a little penetrating lube on it. Once you get that off you may want to replace the steering gear shaft seal as well. Otherwise just reverse the removal steps. The shaft is notched and so is the pitman are make sure they line up. then Torque to spec.s If you plan on keeping the blazer get a repair manual from your auto parts store. It will help you put a great deal.

Jul 24, 2012 | 1994 Chevrolet K1500

1 Answer

What is the torque spec on the cv shaft drivers side 1997 toyota carolla


LOWER SUSPENSION ARM TO STEERING KNUCKLE NUTS AND BOLTS TORQUE 105 FT LBS. TIE ROD ENDS TO THE STEERING KNUCKLE NUT FT LBS.

May 16, 2011 | Toyota Corolla Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Need the torque specs for the nuts on the pitman arm stud and the idler arm stud (nuts that hold the linkage on the studs) for a 2003 sierra 1500HD, 4wd, 6.0L, crew cab


pit man arm to steering gear nut 186 ft lbs.

pit man arm to relay rod nut 46 ft lbs.

idler arm to frame nut 73 ft lbs.

idler arm to relay rod nut 46 ft lbs.

May 08, 2011 | 2002 GMC Sierra 1500HD

1 Answer

STeering wheel is loose and noisy while steering. Sounds like something broke inside.


This might help to understand the steering linkage: REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Steering linkage used on the Bronco and 4-wheel drive F-150 84928067.gif
Fig. 2: Steering linkage used on the 4-wheel drive F-350 84928070.gif
Fig. 3: Steering linkage used on F-Super Duty chassis/cab 84928071.gif
Pitman Arm EXCEPT F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS AND MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Disconnect the drag link at the Pitman arm. You'll need a puller such as a tie rod end remover.
  3. Remove the Pitman arm-to-gear nut and washer.
  4. Matchmark the Pitman arm and gear housing for installation purposes.
  5. Using a 2-jawed puller, remove the Pitman arm from the gear.
  6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Align the matchmarks when installing the Pitman arm. Tighten the Pitman arm nut to 170-230 ft. lbs. (230-312 Nm); torque the drag link ball stud nut to 50-75 ft. lbs. (68-102 Nm), advancing the nut to align the cotter pin hole. Never back off the nut to align the hole.
F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
  1. Matchmark the Pitman arm and sector shaft.
  2. Disconnect the drag link from the Pitman arm.
  3. Remove the bolt and nut securing the Pitman arm to the sector shaft.
  4. Using a 2-jawed gear puller, remove the Pitman arm from the sector shaft. To install:
  5. Aligning the matchmarks, slide the Pitman arm onto the sector shaft. If the arm won't slide on easily, use a cold chisel to spread the separation. NEVER HAMMER THE ARM ONTO THE SHAFT! Hammering on the arm will damage the steering gear!
  6. Install the nut and bolt. Tighten the nut to 220-300 ft. lbs. (298-407 Nm).
  7. Connect the drag link.
Tie Rod and Drag Link EXCEPT RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Remove the cotter pins and rust from the drag link and tie rod ball studs.
  3. Remove the drag link ball studs from the right-hand spindle and Pitman arm.
  4. Remove the tie rod ball studs from the left-hand spindle and drag link.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm). Always use new cotter pins.
  6. Have the front end alignment checked.
RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the nuts connecting the drag link ball studs to the connecting rod and Pitman arm.
  4. Disconnect the drag link using a tie rod end remover.
  5. Loosen the bolts on the adjuster clamp. Count the number of turns it take to remove the drag link from the adjuster. To install:
  6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Install the drag link with the same number of turns it took to remove it. Make certain that the wheels remain in the straight-ahead position during installation. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the adjuster clamp nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Tighten the ball stud nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  7. Have the front end alignment checked.
Connecting Rod RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Disconnect the connecting rod from the drag link by removing the nut and separating the two with a tie rod end remover.
  4. Loosen the bolts on the adjusting sleeve clamps. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the connecting rod from the connecting rod from the adjuster sleeve and remove the rod.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Install the connecting rod the exact number of turns noted during removal. Tighten the tie rod nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm); the ball stud nut to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  6. Have the front end alignment checked.
Tie Rod Ends RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE Fig. 4: Remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut at the ball stud 88288p02.jpg
Fig. 5: Remove the nut from the ball stud 88288p03.jpg
Fig. 6: Use a tie rod end puller tool to remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm 88288p04.jpg
Fig. 7: Liquid correction fluid makes excellent paint to mark the threads of the tie rod end 88288p05.jpg
Fig. 8: For a more accurate reinstallation, you may measure the tie rod end prior to removal 88288p06.jpg
Fig. 9: After having loosened the nut, unscrew and remove the tie rod end 88288p07.jpg
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm using a tie rod end remover. NOTE: Optional: paint a mark or measure the length of the tie rod end threads to ease reinstallation in as close to the original position as possible.
  4. Loosen the nuts on the adjusting sleeve clamp. Remove the ball stud from the adjuster, or the adjuster from the tie rod. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the sleeve from the tie rod or ball stud from the sleeve. To install:
  5. Install the sleeve on the tie rod, or the ball in the sleeve the same number of turns noted during removal. Make sure that the adjuster clamps are in the correct position, illustrated, and torque the clamp bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
  6. Keep the wheels facing straight-ahead and install the ball studs. Tighten the nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm). Use new cotter pins.
  7. Install the drag link and connecting rod.
  8. Have the front end alignment checked.
prev.gif next.gif

Sep 18, 2010 | 1996 Ford F150 Regular Cab

1 Answer

Is a special tool required to remove inner tie rod from relay rod on 2001 Tahoe.? Also what should torque be?


Relay Rod Removal & Installation To Remove:
  1. Raise and support the vehicle
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Engine protection shield, if equipped
    • Steering damper from the relay rod, if equipped Note: Use the proper tool in order to separate all the tie rods and the ball joints.
      Steering components gm_trk_sub15_steering_components.gif

    • Tie rod ends (F) (See: Tie Rod Ends)
    • Idler arm ball stud nut (J) and discard the nut (See: Idler Arm)
    • Pitman arm nut (H) and discard the nut (See: Pitman Arm) Remove the idler arm from the relay rod gm_trk_sub15_idler_from_relay_rod.gif

    • Relay rod from the idler arm ball stud using the J24319-B or other suitable puller Remove relay rod from pitman arm ball stud gm_trk_sub15_relay_rod_rem.gif

    • Relay rod from the pitman arm ball stud using the J24319-B or other suitable puller
    • Relay rod from the vehicle
  3. Inspect the threads on the tie rod ends for damage
  4. Inspect the ball stud threads for damage
  5. Inspect the ball stud seals for excessive damage
  6. Clean the threads on the ball studs
To Install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Relay rod to the vehicle
    • Relay rod to the pitman arm ball stud
    • Relay rod to the idler arm ball stud and make sure the seal is on the stud
    • New pitman arm prevailing torque nut
    • New idler arm prevailing torque nut and tighten the idler arm and pitman arm nuts; Torque to: 46 ft. lbs. (62 Nm)
    • Tie rod ends
    • Steering dampener to the relay rod, if equipped
    • Engine protection shield, if equipped
  2. Lower the vehicle
  3. Check the wheel alignment
  4. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs
prev.gif next.gif

Sep 18, 2010 | 2001 Chevrolet Tahoe

1 Answer

How to change the pittman arm and idler arm on a 1999 S10 Chevy Blazer 4x4?


Pitman arm requires a pitman arm puller, and a tie rod seperator or "pickle fork". Remove the cotter pin on from the joint on the pitman arm and center link, then remove the nuts from both ends of pitman arm. Use the pitman arm puller to remove the pitman arm from the steering gear, then use the tie rod seperator to remove the end from the center link. Reinstall and retighten nuts, do not leave out the cotter pin.
Idler arm will require tie rod seperator. Remove the cotter pin from the end at the center link, use the tie rod seperator to seperate the joint there. Unbolt the idler arm from the frame, and remove. On reinstalling remember to install a new cotter pin. It would be best to have the front end alignment checked after replacing these parts.

Apr 08, 2010 | 1999 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup

1 Answer

Torque spec for king nut on front spindle of 1999 2 wheel drive dodge dakota?


Unsure as to what you are calling the King nut but here are the torque specs for your front end.

Steering Gear-To-Cradle Bolt...........135 ft pnds
Steering Gear-To-Crossmember Bolt (Dakota 2 WD)..........190 ft pnds
Suspension Cradle Plate To-Cradle Attaching Bolt..............123 ft pnds
Tie Rod End-To-Steering Knuckle Nut Dakota (2WD) .............65 ft pnds
Tie Rod Lock Nut.....................55 ft pnds

Dec 08, 2009 | 1999 Dodge Dakota

1 Answer

Need torque spec for 2000 Cirrus outer tie rod ends


45 Ft-lbs Tie-rod balljoint stud-to-steering knuckle nut, and 55 Ft-lbs Tie-rod (outer)- to- inner jam lock nut

Apr 04, 2009 | 2000 Chrysler Cirrus

Not finding what you are looking for?
Cars & Trucks Logo

548 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Chevrolet Experts

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

76649 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22219 Answers

Jeff Turcotte
Jeff Turcotte

Level 3 Expert

8522 Answers

Are you a Chevrolet Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...