No power at air pump,check fuse ok check relay ok

Check for battery voltage at the pump relay if none replace fuse, if ok check relay to pump voltage . if none replace pump relay. if ok check voltage at fuel pump , if none replace cable , if ok replace fuel pump.

First check there is battery voltage to the pump and the pump starts when the ignition is switched on , if not check fuse and relay, check wiring from relay to pump. If ok and the pump is working , check for fuel blockage from the tank inlet to the pump , some have a sock type filter in the tank pick up tube, if all ok remove the fuel filter , switch on and fuel should flow at the filter, fit a new filter, if still no fuel at the rail fit a fuel pressure gauge an check for low pressure , if ok, the fuel pressure regulator may be stuck causing a air lock replace it.

the air injection pump has a relay in the power distribution box that is controlled by the computer. it gets 12 volts when the relay is closed. the relay can be bad

12 volts. there is a relay that supplies 12 volts to the pump when closed. this relay is in the power distribution box.

This is an air pump code, the pump more than likely has failed. If you are not familar with relays, electrionics, mechanics I suggest bring it to local Technician to test/repair

If you are confident to try this on your own, this is what will be required to do. You will need wiring diagram : First try replacing the air pump relay (relay 2) in the Battery Junction Box (BJB). And check that fuse 4 & 9 are both good. If both are ok you will need to remove the air pump relay - With Key On Engine Off, check for battery voltage (B+) to be present at terminal 30 from fuse 4 of the BJB. Check terminal 86 to be B+ from fuse 9 of the BJB, through the power hold relay. Gain access to the bottom of the BJB and check for B+ on the black with green stripe wire for terminal 85 of the air pump relay. If voltage is present, ground wire to check for relay activation and air pump to run, repair circuit to air pump as needed. If pump runs, backprobe the Black/Green wire at terminal 17 of connector C175B of the Powertrain Control Module . Jump terminal to ground to check for air pump operation. If pump runs, check for bad connection in connector or replace faulty PCM as required

most likely its dead but to make sure check the fuel pump fuse or relay some cars has fuses others have relays heck ive seen cars that have booth

Did you check to see if there is power getting to the pump? Did you check the air pump fuse? Do you have any power at the relay that you replaced? Is there any power at the combination valve? Is the computer able to ground the relay? Is the computer able to open the combination valve? Did the relay check bad? If not, why did you replace it?

The only way to effectively check the entire air pump system is with a scanner. You can perform continuity tests on every wire, but you cannot verify proper operation without a scanner. You must command the air pump on with the scanner and check to see if power is getting to the pump. Without the scanner there is no way to tell if the computer is even able to operate the relay so the pump can get the power it needs. There is most likely a broken wire or bad connector somewhere, but the only way to find this without a scanner would be to physically inspect every wire in the system manually and just hope and pray that the computer is actually sending the signal to the relay. (You will not know if it is a computer malfunction unless you physically eliminate EVERYTHING else.)

DTC P0410 sets when the PCM commands the air pump on and the combination valve open and there is no change in the oxygen sensor voltage. The problem can be in the air pump circuits, the combination valve circuits, The combination valve itself, the air pump itelf (not likely if you can get it to run with a jumper) a faulty PCM, or even rarely but possibly, clogged-up ports in the exhaust manifold. Again, a scanner is required to verify the operation of the circuits as well as to verify that the problem is fixed after repairs are made.

Please also review this article:

What Else Could Be Wrong?

Check power at the fuel pump , when you put key on ,it should be there for about two seconds (if you are not starting the car) to build up the pressure.
When you cranking engine , power should be constant.
If power not there , go to the relay , check power supply to the relay.If power supply to the relay ok , check signal from ignition switch , if that ok relay is faulty.

Check the fuel pump relay which is under the hood behind the battery. You'll see 2 turn clips to remove the cover. It should be the 2nd relay as your looking at the car.

motor has probly failed-n hav it inspected n electrically tested-a repair manual is very helpful-may want to do code scan to confirm