Question about 1996 Pontiac Grand Am

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Car will not start. Check and tested most of the ignition components. I had little success while testing the fuel injectors. Any suggestion on how to check the pulse that opens the injectors? I used a stethoscope but could not detect any click. car is a 1996 Pontiac Grand Am 3100 engine.

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Car will not start. Check and tested most of the - cfcf8313-ae47-4001-a860-cd3b12fc897f.gifI test injector pulse with anoid light
hope it helps rate it

Posted on Oct 12, 2013

Testimonial: "I wasn't able to remove the Injector connector but I found the wiring to the injectors at another connector and was able to test for pulses. I had pulses and am now going to replace the fuel pump. The old one has 41 psi and I was told that this might be the problem. Will let you know if the car starts after the fuel pump is replaced. Thanks"

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 770 Answers

SOURCE: WHAT CAR USE SAME FUEL INJECTOR

Any 2001 GM product with the 3100 engine.

Posted on Jan 04, 2010

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How do I fix starting problems with my car?


I can think of a few thing's that could cause this , a mass air flow sensor, crankshaft position sensor , coolant temp sensor. If the check engine light comes on there should be a DTC - diagnostic trouble code stored in the PCM - engine computer ! I'd find a parts that will check for codes an go from there . unless you have a factory scan tool that will check engine data parameters !
Hard Start
Inspection/Test
Action

DEFINITION: Engine cranks OK, but does not start for a long time. Does eventually run, or may start but immediately dies.

Preliminary
• Refer to Important Preliminary Checks Before Starting in Symptoms - Engine Controls .
• Search for bulletins.

Sensor/System
• Inspect the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor for being shifted in value. Install the scan tool and compare the displayed engine coolant temperature with the intake air temperature on a cold engine. Check the resistance of the ECT sensor if the engine coolant temperature is not within ±3°C (5°F) of intake air temperature (IAT). Refer to Temperature Versus Resistance . If the ECT sensor resistance is not within the specification, refer to DTC P0117 or DTC P0118 .
• Inspect the mass air flow (MAF) sensor and connections.
• Inspect the operation of the idle air control (IAC) valve. Refer to Idle Air Control (IAC) System Diagnosis
• Using the scan tool, monitor the throttle position (TP) sensor voltage. The TP sensor voltage should be less than 0.9 volts with a closed throttle. If the TP sensor voltage is more than 0.9 volts, inspect the throttle body and accelerator cables for binding.
• Inspect for the proper operation of the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system. Refer to Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System Description

Fuel System
• Inspect the operation of the fuel pump. The pump should turn ON for approximately 2 seconds when the ignition is turned ON. Refer to Fuel Pump Electrical Circuit Diagnosis
• Inspect for incorrect fuel pressure. Refer to Fuel System Diagnosis .
• Inspect the fuel injectors and related fuses. Refer to Fuel Injector Solenoid Coil Test , and Fuel Injector Balance Test with Tech 2 or Fuel Injector Balance Test with Special Tool .
• Test for fuel contamination. Refer to Alcohol/Contaminants-in-Fuel Diagnosis .

Ignition System
• Inspect the operation of crankshaft position (CKP) sensors A and B.
• Test for proper ignition voltage output using the J 26792 Spark Tester .
• Inspect for damaged ignition coils within the ignition coil module assemblies.
• Inspect for damaged or misaligned spark plug boots.
• Inspect for a missing or damaged ignition module ground spring.
• Inspect the spark plugs. Refer to Spark Plug Inspection .

Engine Mechanical
• Excessive oil in combustion chamber-leaking valve seals. Refer to Oil Consumption Diagnosis in Engine Mechanical 4.6L.
• Inspect for low cylinder compression. Refer to Engine Compression Test in Engine Mechanical 4.6L.
• Inspect the following for incorrect or damaged basic engine parts:
- Cylinder heads
- Camshaft and valve train components
- Pistons, and piston assemblies

Sep 11, 2015 | 2004 Cadillac Deville

2 Answers

Engine cranks, but no start


First let me say thanks for the effort for our country.
Do you know if the injectors are getting voltage and pulse ground, and if the plugs are getting spark ?
You need to know that to proceed.

Dec 12, 2012 | 1996 Buick Roadmaster

1 Answer

Ignition


Step 1 - Anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) inspect all fuses using a test light and check the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels. If all fuses test okay continue to the next step.
Step 2 - To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) and the fuses test okay a trouble code scan is needed to identify any system trouble. Use a simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and see if they relate to the specific problem, like a crank angle sensor failure code. If the trouble code present does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a later time, after the car is running.
The reason we repair non-related codes after the engine is running is because sometime false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is okay with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.
Step 3 - The spark plugs in your engine are used to ignite the compressed fuel air mixture. If the condition of the spark plugs are fouled by excessive fuel or carbon the engine will not start, backfire or run rough. Remove all spark plugs to inspect their condition. Please use this spark plug condition reference guide to see how the spark plugs are operating.
Step 4 - Determine if the engine has compression, this can be done a number of ways but the most complete method is to perform a compression check. Remove the spark plugs and perform a compression test on one cylinder. If one cylinder has compression then the remaining cylinders usually will be close to the same. Crank the engine over about 5 seconds, normal compression readings should be between 125 psi and 160 psi on each cylinder. If no or little compression exists additional tests will be needed. The most common reason for an engine to lose compression is a timing belt or timing chain failure.
If low or no compression exists remove the oil fill cap and observe camshaft rotation when the engine is cranked over. If no rotation exists the timing belt or chain has failed. If your engine has a timing belt and you cannot see the camshaft easily remove the upper bolts to the timing cover and gain visual access to the belt, recheck cam rotation by cranking the engine over. Sometimes a timing belt or chain can jump causing the camshaft to lose correlation with the crankshaft and therefore causing low compression. The best test for this condition is to remove the timing belt/chain cover and inspect timing marks. If the compression is ok proceed to next step.
Step 5 - Test the ignition system output, ignition systems can vary in configuration but operate on the same principal. Ignition systems can consist of a coil, pick up coil, crank angle sensor, cam angle sensor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, ignition rotor and a distributor and any variations of these components. An ignition coil is a voltage stepper coil that transforms a low voltage (12 volts) signal into tens of thousands of volts needed to jump the gap of the spark plug.
This coil is activated by an ignition module triggered by using the camshaft/crankshaft angle sensor; timing is adjusted by the PCM (computer).This primary electrical signal is generated by the PCM which calculates spark timing by using a variety of sensors including coolant temperature, mass air flow, and oxygen sensors. To perform a basic ignition output test you must have a test light and follow the ignition system output test video.
If the ignition system test is weak or non-existent test the car fuses, both under hood power distribution center and the fuse panel under dash. This test is performed with a test light tool. The test light should illuminate on both sides of the fuse, if not the fuse has failed and needs to be replaced. If the fuses are ok a manufacturer specific repair procedure is required and an online auto repair manual is needed to continue. If the ignition system tests ok proceed to the next step.
Step 6 - Test fuel system pressure, test for proper fuel pressure with a test gauge on the fuel rail or in line somewhere in the system, most throttle body injection cars (TBI) are between 13 psi and 17 psi. Most (DPI) direct port inject systems are between 40 psi and 55 psi. If good fuel pressure is present continue to next step. If no or little fuel pressure is present check the fuel pump fuse and fuel pump control relay located in the fuse panel, you can find this fuse and relay by checking your owner's manual, back of the fuse panel cover diagram, or an online auto repair manual, if the fuse or relay has failed replace it a new unit and re-test.
(Note: some Ford cars have an inertia switch designed to cut off the fuel pump in the event of an accident. Sometimes this switch can accidentally be triggered causing the engine to not start. If the car is exposed to a random bump either in the road or by another car this switch can be triggered. To check for this condition locate the inertia switch, if the cut off switch has been active it will have a white or red indicator at the top of the switch. Push this indicator down to disarm the cut off switch, if the indicator does not move down it is not activated and is not the problem.)
Have a helper crank over the engine while you place your fingers over the relay, does the relay click under your fingers? If so the relay could be working, there is a chance the relay has burned contacts inside causing the problem but we will get back to that. Next, access the fuel pump power feed wire, there are a few ways to do this, first you need a wiring schematic to find the color wire needed for testing, the best way to do this is with an online auto repair manual. Once you have found the color wire it should be located in the wiring harness near the fuel tank were the pump is located.
Ground the test light and probe (pierce the wire's outer coating with the test light point) the wire, have a helper crank the engine over. If the test light illuminates and you have no fuel pressure the fuel pump had failed and needs to be replaced. If the test light doesn't illuminate the fuel pump control relay has probably failed, replace it with a new unit and re-test, in most cases this relay is under thirty dollars. There is an outside chance the power feed to the relay has failed but it doesn't happen very often. If this is the case use an auto repair manual to trace the power source to the relay.
Step 7 - Test fuel injector pulse and supply voltage output (test is used for most cars). This test will tell you if the computer system has operating voltage and injector trigger signal. Remove an electrical connector from a fuel injector (it doesn't matter which injector) probe both sides of the connector with a grounded test light (there are only two terminals). Have a helper turn the key to the "on" position without cranking the engine and observe the test light. The test light should illuminate one side of the connector only.
Next, switch the test light lead to the positive side of the battery to test the system ground injector trigger, probe the side of the connector that did not light up, have a helper crank the engine over and observe the test light, it should blink on and off. If this test checks ok continue to next step. (Note: if no injector pulse is present try disconnecting the remainder of injectors and re-test, if a fuel injector is shorted it can shut down the injector driver causing no injector pulse. If injector pulse returns plug injectors electrical connectors in one at a time until the pulse fails and replace that injector)
If this test revealed that there was no pulse but system has power the PCM is not generating a fuel injector trigger. If there is no trigger to the fuel injector it will not allow fuel to enter into the engine. Some of the most popular reasons that can cause this condition include a shorted crankshaft angle sensor, shorted camshaft position sensor or shorted PCM. (When a system trouble code scan is performed it does not always catch a crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft position sensor failure).
Tip: try disconnecting all non-essential sensors, example: oxygen sensor, coolant sensor, throttle position sensor, air intake temperature sensor, mass air flow or map sensor and EGR valve pressure differential sensor. Crank the engine over, if the injector pulse returns, one of the sensors is shorted causing the system to not operate. Plug the sensors in one at a time until the injector pulse fails then replace that sensor and reassemble.
(Note: Some Ford cars have an EGR valve pressure differential sensor that when the catalytic converter becomes slightly plugged will melt the sensor causing the system to shut down. Inspect sensor for melting at the electrical connector then repair or replace as needed and recheck).
If the test reveals that the connector has no power on either side at any time the system power has been disrupted. Some of the most common reasons for this is condition are the main PCM fuse, main PCM power relay and main PCM power feed wire failure. (Some vehicle PCM feed wires are located near the battery and corrosion can stop the voltage feed). If all power sources check out the system ground needs to be checked, this is done by reversing the test light lead and installing it on the positive side of the battery.
Now the test light will illuminate when grounded. Use the test light to check main system grounds to the PCM, most system ground wires are black but to be sure you will need an online auto repair manual. If repairs have recently been made a system ground lead could have been left off of the engine causing the system not to power up, so double check all engine wiring harness grounds.
Step 8 - If the engine has compression, ignition and fuel injector pulse and the engine still doesn't run it could have a plugged exhaust system. Disconnect the exhaust system before the catalytic converter and crank over, if the engine starts the car has a plugged converter or exhaust system. Disassemble the exhaust system to inspect to replace the exhaust component that has failed and reassemble to recheck.

Jan 07, 2012 | Chevrolet Express Cargo Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

We changed the feul pump it comes on u can hear it however the car wont start got any suggestions still acts as if it is not getting feul


Just a couple of suggestions, it could be that the injectors are not firing. Each injector has a solenoid on top of it with an electrical connector, the injector signals come from the control Electronic Control Module. You could have a defective module. Was the "check engine light"on prior to the failure?? Have you verified that you have ignition?? If you have ignition, replaced the fuel filter, and it's still not starting, I would perform a fuel pressure test to make sure you have appropriate fuel pressure. If you are not getting the appopriate pressure, then I would look at the fuel filter or the fuel pressure regulator.

Sep 24, 2011 | 1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera

1 Answer

Car floods when sitting for long periods of time. If car is started it purrs like a kitten, and restarts fine. But sitting for as little as 2-3 hours, causes the car to flood, and have alot of trouble...


One thing you could have inspected are your injectors.Have your local service station do a balance test on the injectors and also test to see if one of the injectors is leaking at the nozzle.If the injectors do leak it could cause unburned fuel to build up in the cylinders making it hard to start your car.I hope that this suggestion helps find a solution to your problem.

Feb 13, 2011 | 1995 Kia Sephia

1 Answer

Had no spark so i replaced the iginition rotor and distributor cap. fuel is working and tested continuity of fuel injectors and shows ok. car still will not start, please help.


one of two things i think here and one is the ignition module and the other is the crankshaft pick up sensor ,which one it is i couldnt tell you without testing the components first ,the crank sensor is easy to test but the ignition module can be tested but its very difficult with the correct equipment

Feb 11, 2011 | 1989 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

2004 dodge intrepid.2.7 engine. #1 misfire.coil good.plug good. have not done a compression test yet. ( will soon) I cant get to the injector.how can i get i test the injector?I have a scan tool which...


Hi, if the injector is not on the data list of the scan result then you have no reason to try and test the injector which can be located with the help o the car user manual...
The cause of misfiring #1 cylinder may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
  • Faulty spark plug or wire
  • Faulty coil (pack)
  • Faulty oxygen sensor(s)
  • Faulty fuel injector
  • Burned exhaust valve
  • Faulty catalytic converter(s)
  • Running out of fuel
  • Poor compression
  • Defective computer

If there are no symptoms, the simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back.
If there are symptoms such as the engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs). Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable). Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the catalytic converter has gone bad. If you smell rotten eggs in the exhaust, your cat converter needs to be replaced. I've also heard in other cases the problems were faulty fuel injectors.

I will also strongly suggest you carry out the compression test........

Jan 30, 2011 | 2004 Dodge Intrepid

1 Answer

My 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland won't start, please help! The starter is new and the battery is new (and several other new parts: radiator, tires, rims, & brakes). It was running fine but one...


Hello,
There are several causes that might lead to such a problem.

A dead fuel pump (could be the pump, pump relay or wiring circuit);A plugged fuel filter;Low fuel pressure (weak pump or restricted line); or No pulse signal to injectors (bad injector relay or PCM driver circuit).

One of the first things to check is the fuel pump. Then you carry out these tests,

Run a test on this components and you should be able to detect where the problem is from.
Static Fuel Pressure Test, Residual Fuel Pressure Test, Running Fuel Pressure Test, Dead Head Pressure, Fuel Volume Test, Fuel Pressure Regulator Test, Fuel Pressure Drop Test, Scope Tests.
After carrying out these tests, you will be able to tell what component is faulty and how to solve the problem.
Take care and good luck

Jan 07, 2011 | Jeep Grand Cherokee Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1989 LINCOLN TOWNCAR LOST POWER SEEMED HAD IT


if you sqirt a little gas or starting fluid in tthe air intake and it starts for a few seconds then the igjition is probably ok since it was stored so long you could have lots of water int the gas tank or bad gas... you could have a clogged fuel filter or bad fuel pump . you can have a pressure/volume test done on the fuel pump.. that will also test the fuse and fuel filter .. wow only 54k miles ..

Apr 02, 2010 | 1989 Lincoln Town Car

1 Answer

I have a 1990 jeep Cherokee inline 6 4.0litre,my


Bad fuel pump, or fuel regulator, use a small vise grip and squeeze the fuel return line a little bit (its a black hose located in the forward part of fuel supply rack feeding injectors) dont pinch it all the way shut. if it runs better its your fuel regulator. Thats a common problem with that type, later models did away with fuel return.

Mar 02, 2010 | 1990 Jeep Cherokee Limited

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