Question about 2007 Cadillac Escalade Two-Wheel Drive

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My son thinks his a mechanic experimenting ,place a fan as big as palm size in the air induction hose ,he start the escalade and test drive ,he heard a grinding and then knocking sound in the engine, then all warning lights went on ,the engine lights remains ON, after he reset all warning lights The engine knocking sound is getting worse . what is the potential problem and how much will it Cost me to repair

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  • Cadillac Master
  • 3,187 Answers

Could be the oil pump has failed grinding sound then knocking sound could also be the timing is out or failing that something forren has got into the engine. check all these out and don't run the engine you are making the engine worse. if pump for the oil has gone and the engine has been run can mean a new engine. if timing belt has moved could be a new head will be needed. and pistons. failed oil pump does more damage in the long run as the hole engine needs oil.

Posted on Oct 11, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: resetting service engine soon light in my 2002 cadillac escalade

  1. Turn the ignition key to the RUN position.
  2. Press the INFO button on the Driver Information Center (DIC) button to display ENGINE OIL LIFE.
  3. Fully push and release the accelerator pedal 3 times within 5 seconds. If the CHANGE OIL SOON light flashes 2 times, the system is reset. However if the light comes on and stays on for 5 seconds, the system did not reset. Repeat the he procedure if the system does not reset.
  4. Turn the ignition OFF.

Posted on Feb 01, 2009

ButtFuzz
  • 463 Answers

SOURCE: 2004 Cadillac Escalade knocking noise

Make sure oil level is adequate.

Also, this could be an exhaust leak that is being closed as the manifold and/or block heats up.

Posted on Mar 02, 2009

wmsfarris
  • 22 Answers

SOURCE: 1979 cad fleetwood brougham knocking sound from,engine

Sometimes collapsed lifters or loose rocker arms can cause knocking sounds in an engine. However, the fact that there was a possible loss of oil pressure and that the knocking gets louder as the rpm's increase, would indicate that there is damage to a connecting rod bearing and possibly the crankshaft. If the latter is the case you are looking at a fairly substantial repair bill.

Posted on Apr 14, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 99' Escalade a/c front vent blows cool air an rear blow cold air.

i have the same problem, my rear a/c blows great very cold, the front a/c blows but it is not cold at all. I had the the a/c seviced and it was vacumed and correct ammount put back in, no problems, the front still blows but it is not cold, i have checked everything and the a/c guy said it might be the door not opening. any help? still not working

Posted on Aug 09, 2009

  • 69 Answers

SOURCE: Same problem , car has only 86,000 miles

replace that thermostat again...flush radiator any way...then see how it runs...

Posted on Aug 28, 2009

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2 Answers

Car is overheating even though the fan is connected directly.


can you turn the fan easily when the engine is off ?
if the answer is yes, you have a viscous fan hub ( fan clutch) and it is in need of replacing
the fan will spin but has no direct drive to pull the air through the radiator
if the fan is bolted directly to the water pump shaft hub, the I suggest that you start with a compression test, then a coolant system pressure test , followed by a radiator flow test to check for blocked cores

Oct 30, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

Tip

Basic checks:- if your vehicle is overheating.


The below checks are generally intended to apply to any make of motor vehicle, (even though, to post this tip I had to select a particular make & model).

Overheating may be caused by many things.
Ensure engine tune or other mechanical disfunction is not contributing to the overheat problem.
Ensure there are no vacuum leaks on the engine air induction system.
If gas bubbles are apparent in the coolant reservoir when the engine is running the motor it may have a blown headgasket - (if confirmation is required, go to a radiator shop and request a "combustion gas detector" test).

If no obvious mechanical problems exist I suggest you carry out the following checks:-
1) Check coolant system is not leaking fluid due cracked/perished hose or hose fitting, leaking water pump etc,
2) Check engine cooling fan/s are operating as required when engine temp rises above cut-in threshold - check fan control relay is ok,
3) Check for collapsing radiator hose on suction side of water-pump when motor revs raised above idle.
4) Check coolant reservoir pressure cap is serviceable,
5) Check coolant system is properly filled - carry out any bleed off procedure specified to clear any air locks- (ensure heater core coolant flow is turned on).
6) Check condition of radiator core:-
i) for blockage of air flow to (bugs/grass etc),
ii) for core internal blockage to coolant flow.
7) Check or replace the thermostat.

on Feb 23, 2010 | BMW 318 Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Car makes a whirring noise when I start it. It has no problem starting.


You need a new mechanic! Use a piece of old hose (fuel line, heater hose, even old garden hose) about 4 or 5 feet long and CAREFULLY pur one end to your ear and the other under the hood and try to find where noise is coming from. Does car have a mechanical fan with a fan clutch? listen near there. Electric fuel pump? Heater/A/C blower fan turned on?

May 17, 2015 | 1994 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

OBJECT GOT **** IN THE AIR INDUCTION , CANT FIND


The worst case is damaged piston which means engine rebuild. You may be lucky to limit the damage to just the head. When you find which piston/ cylinder is affected you will have to check the con rod for bent condition and bearing damage. as to the cost that will depend on what is damaged but budget for a motor replacement.

Oct 11, 2013 | 2007 Cadillac Escalade Two-Wheel Drive

2 Answers

I have a '99 Plymouth Neon that overheats. I have replaced the thermostat and even the radiator. Problem is that it stills gets hot. What next?


Do a collant system flush. You have already spent too much money because the clog may be in the engine. Big big warning. Before doing a cooling system flush, check your oil color. Should be normal. After the flush make sure it is still normal and not tannish. This spells trouble big time.

May 18, 2011 | Plymouth Neon Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to change starter on 1994 corolla


The sizes given are the wrench sizes needed to perform the step.
1. Remove the negative battery cable from the battery.
2. Remove the hose that connects the air cleaner to the throttle body.
3. Remove the top of the air cleaner box (4 clips on the corners).
4. Take out the air filter. Disconnect the sensor on the side of the air cleaner.
5. Remove the three bolts (2 - 12mm, 1 - 10mm) that hold the bottom of the air cleaner box to the inner fender and remove the box.
6. Disconnect the two rubber hoses on the top of the air canister (one large, one small).
7. Loosen the clamp bolt (10mm) (be careful as there is a non-captive nut that will drop if you remove the bolt completely) and slide the air canister out.
8. Remove the two bolts that hold the fuel filter on to its bracket (10mm). It is the same bracket as the air canister's.
9. Remove the air canister/fuel filter bracket by removing the four bolts that hold it in place (10mm).
10. Remove the wire harness/hose bracket directly in front of the top starter bolt (12mm) - this will facilitate your ability to get a socket wrench on the starter bolt. On my car it was RIGHT in the way!
11. Loosen the top starter bolt (14mm).
12. Loosen the bottom starter bolt (14mm) and remove it completely.
13. Hold the starter up and remove the top bolt completely. Flip the starter over and place it on the drive axle below with the wiring facing up.
14. Disconnect the solenoid plug and the starter cable (12mm).
15. Remove the starter by snaking it through the driver's side of the motor compartment. There's enough room if you're patient - be careful not to snag anything and damage it.
16. Snake the new starter down through the driver's side reverse of the way the old one came out. Lie it on the drive axle and connect the solenoid connector and the cable.
17. Flip it over and up into place. Hold it in place and start the top bolt. Tighten it by hand enough that the starter stays in place by itself.
18. Start the bottom bolt; tighten it up all the way.
19. Tighten the top bolt the rest of the way.
20. Connect the battery cable and try the starter - before you put everything back!
21. Replace canister/fuel filter bracket and bolt the fuel filter in place.
22. Slide the air canister in and tighten the clamp bolt. Connect the two rubber hoses on top of it.
23. Install the bottom of the air cleaner box; plug in the sensor.
24. Put in the air filter and then replace the top of the air cleaner.
25. Connect the big hose from the air cleaner to the throttle body.
NOTE: You may have to reset the "check engine" light when you're finished (I think starting the car when we check it in Step 20 can freak out the computer since there are still things disconnected). To do this, find the fuse block on the driver's side of the engine compartment; remove the 15A EFI fuse for 30 seconds. Put the fuse back in - the light should now be reset.
That's it! Shouldn't need another one for another 150,000 miles!

A helpful rating and an testimonial would be greatly appreciated if you are satisfied with my solution ...

Oct 03, 2010 | 1994 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

Loud banging noise in enginewhen driving think it might be a rod


Big end bearing worn out.Drain engine oil and look for a silver like color in the oil.

Jul 06, 2009 | 1999 Cadillac Escalade

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