Dodge neon, loose ball join in the lower arm control
Everytime i turn my steering wheels to the right, at the end of the turn i hear breaking noise, i have been told that its one or two things. but i wan to know if i cou;d fix it myself or do i really need to see an expert for tha one,
thanks for your help in advance.
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basically everything can didnt specify type of vehicle so well go thru list first tires out of balance or under inflated and or oversized for vehicle ---hub /wheel bearing going bad ---upper or lower ball joint bad or damaged ----upper or lower control arm bushings---shocks/struts bad ---tie rods not properly installed ---idler arm bad or damaged --steering box/steering rack bad or damaged
What make? What model? This could be caused by brake problem, worn front end part (bad ball joint can be very dangerous), or even something simple such a worn tie rod end. If you want to test these things, put jack under lower A arm on one side and just lift the weight off the wheel and put on jack stand. Have a helper wiggle the steering wheel while you look underneath for loose motion at some part. Nothing? Then grab wheel at sides and try to wiggle wheel. Now repeat at top and bottom of wheel. A bad steering damper can also cause this. If you are not experienced at front end work, have alignment shop check things out. A bad ball joint can break and cause you to lose control of the car. GET IT FIXED asap.
Look at the brakwe strut arms that connect to the lower control arms and the cross member below tghe radiator. Also if it happens while making turns left or right into a driveway (knocking type noise , look at the sealed wheel bearings. I had this ande water waqs getting into the bearing through the dust cap
Hello, Sir is your 1997 Ford Expedition a 4X4? It sounds like the drag line and it's ball joints. There is a bent heavy steel arm at the end of steering box. On the end of this pitman arm is the drag link and the drag link is hook to each front hub with a ball joint on each end and the pitman arm. This way when the steering wheel is turning both wheels in the front will follow each other. If the ball joint are wore out on the drag link this will cause the front wheels to wobble.
Need to get the Ford Exp off the ground where the front wheels are free of a load. Now, just grab one of the front wheels and move it back and forth. There a good possiblity it rattle like marble in a car. Also, check the upper and lower control arms that attached to each front hub. There are hugh ball joint in each control arm, upper and lower on each of the Ford Exp. Two per side four all together. I hope this help you. GB...stewbison
To remove the lower control arm raise and support your car with jack stands.Next you want to remove the wheel that you are replacing the control arm on.Remove the ball joint nut and tie rod nut.Tap the steering knuckle to break the tie rod end loose from the knuckle DO NOT HIT THE TIE ROD SO HARD YOU DAMAGE THE THREADS.If you do you will also be changing a tie rod end.Tap on the steering knuckle until your ball joint stud comes loose.Remove the 2 bolts that mount the control arm to the frame.To install the new one just go in reverse.
The front suspension allows each wheel to compensate for changes in the road surface without affecting the opposite wheel. Each wheel independently connects to the frame with a steering knuckle, ball joint assemblies, and upper and lower control arms.
The control arms specifically allow the steering knuckles to move in a three-dimensional arc. Two tie rods connect to steering arms on the knuckles and an intermediate rod. These operate the front wheels.
The two-wheel drive vehicles have coil chassis springs. These springs are mounted between the spring housings on the frame and the lower control arms. Double, direct acting shock absorbers are inside the coil springs. The coil springs attach to the lower control arms and offer ride control.
The upper part of each shock absorber extends through the upper control arm frame bracket. This bracket has two grommets, two grommet retainers, and a nut.
A spring stabilizer shaft controls the side roll of the front suspension. This shaft is mounted in rubber bushings that are held by brackets to the frame side rails. The ends of the stabilizer shaft connect to the lower control arms with link bolts. Rubber grommets isolate these link bolts. Rubber bushings attach the upper control arm to a cross shaft. Frame brackets bolt the cross shaft.
A ball joint assembly is riveted to the outer end of the upper control arm. A rubber spring in the control arm assures that the ball seats properly in the socket. A castellated nut and a cotter pin join the steering knuckle to the upper ball joint.
The inner ends of the lower control arm have pressed-in bushings. The bolts pass through the bushings and join the arm to the frame. The lower ball joint assembly is a press fit in the lower control arm and attaches to the steering knuckle with a castellated nut and a cotter pin.
Ball socket assemblies have rubber grease seals. These seals prevent entry of moisture and dirt and damage to the bearing surfaces.
Four-wheel drive models have a front suspension that consists of the control arms, a stabilizer bar, a shock absorber, and right and left torsion bars. The torsion bars replace the conventional coil springs. The lower control arm attaches to the front end of the torsion bar. The rear end of the torsion bar mounts on an adjustable arm at the crossmember. This arm adjustment controls the vehicle trim height.
Two-wheel drive vehicles have tapered roller sheel bearings. These bearings are adjustible and need lubrication.
Four-wheel drive models and RWD Utilities have sealed front-wheel bearings. These bearings are pre-adjusted and need no lubrication.
Heat treatment may create darkened areas on the bearing assembly. This discoloration does not signal a need for replacement.
Hope this helps?
check all the front end moving parts for looseness, ball joints, tie rods, upper and lower arm bushings, wheel bearings, brake mounting supports, swaybar bushings, if it makes noise and shifts it its dangerous to drive
from the sound your describing you have a tie rod or ball joint getting dry or wore. without jacking the car, have a helper sit in car and move steering as indicated to cause the noise and get under car. leave engine off so you can hear. when you see what side it on, isolate the component by placing your hand on the metioned parts and you will 'feel' the noise. once you find, then jack the car and check for freeplay. the noisy part may be loose. if its a ball joint they are greaseable if you take the wheel off you can access. the lower control arm bushings are common to fail too or a broken sway bar link. if you dont feel up to getting into take to any shop and explain issue. it doesnt take a long time to evaluate. make sure you do asap it could be DANGEROUS if a tie rod or ball joint fail while driving. noises mean your car is saying HELP- be sure to listen
sounds like a combo number of things starting bad wheel bearings and bad rotors bad bushings on lower control arm or stabalizer bar (look at the rubber where they join. and check the ball joint on the bottom of the knuckles
If it's a constant clunking noise it might be the cv joints, a one time clunk would indicate play between the steering rack and and the wheel somewhere, probably on the lower control arm, meaning the bushes are either very worn, or not present anymore. It could be the bushes on the swing-arm aswell. Best bet: Jack the car up on the right side and grab the wheel, **** it around abit, and check for play.Hope that helps!