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Mitsubishi magna 2003

Went to change interior light upon doing so a slight spark occurred and now the alarm, central locking, air con etc are not working, pls help

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  • 62 Answers

Sounds like you blew a fuse, or tripped a breaker. Find the main fuse box and pull the fuses one by one to look at them. you will see the difference between a good fuse and a blown one.

Posted on Oct 11, 2013

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SOURCE: Electric windwows, door locks, alarm, interior lights not working

Sounds like you may have a bad ground clean battery terminals!! get wiring schematic!!!! Good Luck!!!!

Posted on Jun 22, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: 1999 Audi A3 1.8T Electric Windows and Central Locking Won't work

will your passenger door open with the key and is it just one side that your windows are not working or both. if its just one side it might be your regulator motor in the door thats not working if its both it might be your central locking pump usually in the boot. however if both of them are working fine it could be that your key needs reprogrammed however i think the 1st 2 are more likely to be the problem.

Posted on Jun 30, 2009

fearghusq
  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Radio, clock, interior light and central locking not working

This is as a result of a short occurring most likely in the radio harness.

It happened me while working on a customers car. In my case checked all fuses and they all appeared fine, both those under the hood/bonnet and those underneath the steering wheel.

After studying the workshop electrical schemmatics for the car it appears that the clock, interior lights, central locking receiver and radio permanent live/battery are all on the one line.

In effect damage had occurred after the internal fuse panel, therefore all fuses were ok and supplying power across them, but at some point after there was a break in the wire.

However you DO NOT need to remove dash and or replace harnesses to rectify.

Look at the fuse panel underneath the steering wheel. Slot 18 (bottom RHS) and you will see in raised plastic 'BACK UP'. Inserting a 10A fuse here will restore the interior lights, radio, clock and your central locking.

There is a small plastic piece in the way which prevents a fuse going in. Simply use a thin pair of pliers, scissors or a screwdriver (or similar tool) to break this and all pieces of it away until you are able to insert the 10A mini blade fuse.

Problem Sorted!

(I believe the fact this back up exists is because the designers of electrical system at mitsibushi realised it had shortcomings or this would be a potential problem - and included the back up for such an occurence)

Fearghus Quinn
(7 years experienced auto electrician & owner of Car Audio company in Perth Western Australia)

Posted on Sep 17, 2012

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Radio, clock, interior light and central locking not working


This is as a result of a short occurring most likely in the radio harness.

It happened me while working on a customers car. In my case checked all fuses and they all appeared fine, both those under the hood/bonnet and those underneath the steering wheel.

After studying the workshop electrical schemmatics for the car it appears that the clock, interior lights, central locking receiver and radio permanent live/battery are all on the one line.

In effect damage had occurred after the internal fuse panel, therefore all fuses were ok and supplying power across them, but at some point after there was a break in the wire.

However you DO NOT need to remove dash and or replace harnesses to rectify.

Look at the fuse panel underneath the steering wheel. Slot 18 (bottom RHS) and you will see in raised plastic 'BACK UP'. Inserting a 10A fuse here will restore the interior lights, radio, clock and your central locking.

There is a small plastic piece in the way which prevents a fuse going in. Simply use a thin pair of pliers, scissors or a screwdriver (or similar tool) to break this and all pieces of it away until you are able to insert the 10A mini blade fuse.

Problem Sorted!

(I believe the fact this back up exists is because the designers of electrical system at mitsibushi realised it had shortcomings or this would be a potential problem - and included the back up for such an occurence)

Fearghus Quinn
(7 years experienced auto electrician & owner of Car Audio company in Perth Western Australia)

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1996 Volvo 850 GLT Fuse #15 keeps blowing out


Hi!

Since you've got a '96 I assume your #15 fuse is 10 amps and for the following components:

Audio System, Courtesy Lights, Door Open Light, Trunk Light, Glove Box Light, Remote Control Central Locking System, Oil Level Sensor, Seat Belt Reminder, Data Link Connector.

Turn ignition to OFF, turn off all interior lighting (by operating the selector inside the car), close all doors, wait about 20 seconds and insert a new fuse. If the fuse is blown immediately upon insertion my guess would be that you have an aftermarket audio system with faulty wiring or maybe something is wrong with you Data Link Connector. If that is not the case the problem might prove a little bit harder to find, and you'll definitely need a wiring diagram. Check this site:
http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/volvo_workshop-850techdocs.shtml

If the fuse is not blown immediately upon insertion: Good, the components affiliated with the fuse can then be grouped by what ignition position they are active at (OFF, 1, 2) and tested individually.

POSITION OFF:
- Door open light, courtesy lights, glove box light, trunk light, remote central locking system.
Make sure the glove box light really is turned off when closing the glove box.
After that it's simply a matter of testing these components one after the other (with the ignition at position OFF) by opening/closing doors, turning on/off trunk light etc, checking the fuse between each component test.
Make sure that the interior lighting is turned off when you test the central locking, or else you might end up faulttracing central locking when the problem was with the interior lighting :)
(Since the interior lights can be set to turn on when the central locking is operated).

POSITION 1:
- Usually the audio system, unless it's an aftermarket system.
If the fuse breaks the second you turn the ignition to position 1 the audio system probably has faulty wiring.

POSITION 2:
If the fuse breaks the second you turn the ignition to position 2 one of these two components is the culprit:
- Seat belt reminder, oil level sensor.
Fasten all seat belts and try again with a new fuse.
If the fuse still breaks the oil level sensor is most likely the culprit.
If the fuse didn't break the seat belt reminder is the culprit. If so you can simply disconnect the seat belt reminder relay, ridding you of both your fuse problem and the annoying seat belt reminder. The relay is located behind the cover over the drivers feet (easily removed, just a couple of torx screws, no breakable interior clips).

The central locking relay and the alarm module are also found there, as well as some other electrical components.

The Data Link Connector is an unlikely culprit, but it's probably best if you unplugged it completely during testing.
If everything turns out ok with it disconnected you can test it at the end. (The Data Link Connector is the OBD II conncetor located by the coin holder, in front of the gearchange).

Good luck!

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