Mitsubishi 4m40 turbo engine, when drived, the temperature rises , water in radiator gets approx, 1 lit emty and the reserve tank is being full just because of this

The engine is not designed to run without the turbo. Fuel pump recirculates fuel to the tank to control pressure while driving and engine is running so poorly fuel is being diluted. Fix the turbo.

You have a coolant restriction

check your thermostat , and water pump

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You may start to check first if the radiator has holes that is why the radiator is loosing water. Temperature will rise up because there is not enought pressure to the radiator to s_uck water from the reserve to circulate to your radiator and engine. If there are no holes then you need to check the water pump. The water pump might gone bad that is why water cannot circulate.

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find out more about the fuel device, it may be making the fuel mixture run lean which can overheat the engine

in front of the deisel pump the gear wheel is slightly cut/chip mark to the back of it take it out, and place it on t or n (t for turbo n for non turbo) .normal timming is good .If not hand turn until #1 piston is up and #1 cam shaft lobes are not touching cup & shim then set pump to desired mark

think impeller drive is slipping on the drive in the water pump

Both the 4.0L and 4.7L engines use 195� thermostats for all model years from 1999-2004. When replacing a thermostat it is very important to install one with the same temperature rating (the only exception might be with certain performance modifications or chips that recommend or require a different temperature thermostat).

4.0L engine - Draining the cooling system WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR DRAINCOCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.

1. DO NOT remove radiator cap first. With engine cold, locate radiator draincock on the right lower side of radiator facing to rear of vehicle.
2. Attach one end of a hose to the draincock. Put the other end into a clean container. Open draincock and drain coolant from radiator. This will empty the coolant reserve/overflow tank. The coolant does not have to be removed from the tank unless the system is being refilled with a fresh mixture. When tank is empty, remove radiator cap and continue draining cooling system. To drain the engine block of coolant, remove the cylinder block drain plug, located on the side of cylinder block below the exhaust manifold.

4.0L engine - refilling the cooling system Coolant recommendations and cautions: The recommended mixture is 50/50 ethylene-glycol and low mineral content water. Never use pure antifreeze. Only Mopar Antifreeze Coolant, 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula (glycol base coolant with corrosion inhibitors called HOAT) is recommended. This coolant offers the best engine cooling without corrosion when mixed with 50% distilled water. Antifreeze mixture must always be at least 44%, all climates year round. Maximum protection (-90d) is provided with a 68% mixture protection. If the percentage is lower than 44 percent, engine parts may be eroded by cavitation, and cooling system components may be severely damaged by corrosion. CAUTION: Mopar Antifreeze/Coolant, 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula (MS-9769) may not be mixed with any other type of antifreeze. Mixing of coolants other than specified (non-HOAT or other HOAT), may result in engine damage that may not be covered under the new vehicle warranty, and decreased corrosion protection.

CAUTION: Do not use coolant additives that are claimed to improve engine cooling. 4.0L coolant capacity: 1999-2000: 13.0 qts. (including 2.3 qts. for resevoir) 2001-2004: 15.0 qts. (including 1 qt. for resevoir)

1. Tighten the radiator draincock and the cylinder block drain plug(s) (if removed).
2. Fill system using a 50/50 mixture of ethyleneglycol antifreeze and low mineral content water. Fill radiator to top and install radiator cap. Add sufficient coolant to the reserve/overflow tank to raise level to FULL mark.
3. With heater control unit in the HEAT position, operate engine with radiator cap in place.
4. After engine has reached normal operating temperature, shut engine off and allow it to cool. When engine is cooling down, coolant will be drawn into the radiator from the reserve/overflow tank.
5. Add coolant to reserve/overflow tank as necessary. Only add coolant to the reserve/overflow tank when the engine is cold. Coolant level in a warm engine will be higher due to thermal expansion. To purge the cooling system of all air, this heat up/cool down cycle (adding coolant to cold engine) must be performed three times. Add necessary coolant to raise tank level to the FULL mark after each cool down period.

For more details, you can refer to the Jeep WJ Service Manual Section-07-Cooling-System-Ewj7

Hope helped.

Diesels do lose a little oil out the blow-by tube. If the engine temp. is higher then normal then you will lose more then normal amounts. If you are not leaking it then you are burning it, Possibly worn rings, head-gasket, or oil leak inside turbo. 68 MPH and higher doesn't sound unusual, is the engine still stock?

It sounds to me like you're low on coolant. When you checked the coolant level, did you actually open the radiator cap and make sure the radiator is full? The plastic tank you generally add coolant too is actually an 'overflow' or 'reserve' tank. There is a hose that runs from that tank to the top of the radiator so if the radiator gets low on coolant, more coolant -should- run in from the overflow tank. However in practice this does not always work. I have a Jeep that leaks coolant and experiences this exact same problem. Coolant will not run from the reserve tank into the radiator because the hose is plugged up, and whenever the radiator gets low on coolant the temp gauge will go real high and then drop, and the heater doesn't work well. This is because the cooling system of your car is supposed to be a closed system, full of coolant and no air. When coolant leaks out, the space it used to occupy is now occupied by air, which does not transfer heat well. When 'air' is passing through your cooling system, no heat can be transferred from your engine to the heater and radiator, resulting in a hot engine and no heat at the heater. Then when a pocket of water passes through the system, the temperature gauge quickly falls as the water absorbs the heat from the engine. The hot water that cools the engine is where the heater gets it's heat from as well, so when water passes through the heater core, the heater works, but when it's filled with air, it doesn't.