Question about 1995 Nissan Pathfinder

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I drive a 95 pathfinder. When I am driving and push on the brake to lower my speed, or even stop at a stoplight it will die, not all the time does this happen but it is very scary when it does. Sometimes when I go to stop the idle will drop to almost 0 and wants to die but doesnt. It will go to almost 0 and feels like it will die then raises to 1 but i can feel the car trying to accelerate with my foot on the brake. The rpm will idle from 0-1 while stopped, but still in drive. Also when I am in reverse and then put it in drive without my feet on the gas or brake it jerks forward. Like it is trying to accelerate on its own! kinda odd. I have heard of a few things that could be wrong. Some people have mentioned the torque converter, maybe a vaccum hose or leak..etc. Please help me! I will be glad to add more input about my problem if needed. Thanks

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  • 29 Answers

It sounds like a tps or tbs. it a throttle position (body) sensor. it a plug that will be on or near the intake, have you had any work done to it lately?

Posted on Oct 10, 2013


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 95 Nissan Maxima HELP Engine revs taking too long to switch gears

check the transmission fluid for starters. sounds like it is low. Is tranny still under warranty? I would take it back to whoever did work

Posted on Dec 10, 2008

  • 383 Answers

SOURCE: 2005 Nissan Altima cuts off while driving.

Dear Tajack73: Nissan had a voluntary recall campaign on the 2002,2005,2006 Altima's with the 2.5 litre engines It envolves reprogramming the ECM.
The campaign ID # RD0712 NHTSA #: 07V-527
2005 Altima Vin's 1N4AL11**5C 100003-957025
1N4AL11**5N 400000-934180

The symptom you have described fits the one they have describe in the bulletin. Check with Nissan and see if your car falls within the campaign. Let men know how you do.

Posted on Apr 07, 2009

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SOURCE: truck will not idle

first check to be sure the fuel filter from the gas tank which feeds into the fuel pump isn't restricting fuel flow, replace if needed (its under where you fill the gas tank in front of the right rear tire, you may find it easier to remove the protective bracket for access). Place the hose end from the pump going to the engine(crawl underneath and look for steel line heading to the front of the car on inside frame rail) into a glass jar and have a friend turn the key part way to turn on the pump, only for a couple of seconds without starting engine and wear eye protection and work from outside of the truck, you should see a strong flow. If that is all good, check the small fuel filter that is located in the carburetor where the fuel line attaches.This is located on the front (assuming 2.4 4 cyl.) of the carb. Disconnect the battery negative cable. Remove the air cleaner and take careful note of the vacuum lines connected to the unit, you will have to loosen 4 breather type hoses as well as the air intake line and the exhaust pre-heater, use a variety of Phillip heads screwdrivers at different lengths (a stubby and extra long help a lot).Place a cloth over the carb butterfly so you don't drop anything into it.Loosen the clamps that hold on the (two?) intermediate flexible fuel line below carb, it will need to be able to move up to get the fuel line connector off. Remove the locking bracket holding the 5 sides of the fuel line bolt head which prevents loosening of the fuel line connection, note the location of the brackets hold down screw to use as a guide for reinstalling, you may need to give the hold down bracket screw a sharp wrap with a hammer and screwdriver and/or penetrating oil to help break it loose, use the largest screwdriver you can and do not strip out the head. Scribe a reference line on top of the connector bolt to aid in reinstallation, use a socket wrench for removal. You will notice a slight cut out(circular) in the rim of the Carb above the fuel line that allows for removal. Carefully pull up and angle toward you with a gentle rocking motion to get it out. Go slowly and don't force it or you will break the fuel filter inside which is a dime size plastic cylinder with a fine mesh screen, take your time, it can be done!. Once out, carefully clean the screen without ripping or placing a hole in it, I use a jewelers screwdriver (a cuticle tool would be better) keeping parallel with the screen and then wash out with gas. You will need to clean the 8 surfaces of the connection(2 washers for 4 sides, 2 sides of connector, base and bolt head) before replacement. Do not use metal to clean, only things like scotch bright pads or you could scratch the surfaces causing a leak that would result in an engine fire! Tighten back down firmly, it may make a creaking sound when you're close, check for the scribe mark you made aligning as before and check to see if the lock down bracket will go back on as before removal, fine tune to fit. You don't want to damage the bolt or the threads in the carb so a drop of oil on the bolt threads is a good idea. Tighten down locking bracket. Reconnect battery cable. Turn on the ignition far enough to start the fuel pump but don't crank the motor, do it two or three times. Check for fuel leakage at the connection. If dry, replace the air cleaner and tighten all large hoses and vacuum lines (look around, you can accidentally disconnect things far away from the air cleaner housing). It's a pain in the rear, but, you'll get it. Next, with fire extinguisher on hand, block off a tire on both sides, set E-Brake, put in neutral, foot on brake start the engine and immeadiatly check for fuel leakage using a flashlight, its hidden from view under the air cleaner. Run the motor for awhile and keep checking for fuel leakage. If you don't see any run the motor at varying speeds and recheck for leakage. You're probably good if it passes the first test, but, better safe than sorry. Drive a short distance and recheck for fuel leakage. Good luck!

Posted on Apr 07, 2009

  • 23 Answers

SOURCE: where is coolant temp sensor and knock sensor on 95 nissan maxima

Mine usually stalled coming out the driveway. I went thru replacement of 6 coils and plugs with almost no improvement on my 2000 maxima. Ultimately the mass air flow sensor was replaced. All the engine codes from check engine light would make you think the engine needs overhaul, due to the nature of resultant bad engine performance. You can buy maf sensor $100 online. 5 minutes to install it. I tried cleaning it, but it made no difference until I replaced it. After that it was like 50 more horsepower.

Posted on Sep 06, 2009

  • 1564 Answers

SOURCE: Loud knocking under drivers right foot

You may have pick up some debris on the road and it has wrapped around your front drive axle. That's honestly all I can think of as long as there are no other changes in the operation of the vehicle.

Posted on Sep 06, 2009

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