Question about Cadillac DeVille
It's probably either a blown fuse or the element (the part you push in to heat it) has burned out. Either way, it should be a cheap fix.
Posted on Oct 10, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
even though the fuse is good, change it anyway and look for other bad fuses. it is possible that someone rewired and put wired them somewhere else. i just saw that yesterday. also, check to make sure a wire did not fall off or get broken/fried. if both power points are not working they are connected to the same power and ground points, whereby creating a circle/circuit. also check to see if one of the units is bad. if it take two to complete the circuit/circle and one unit is bad, maybe the circle/circuit is broken. you can test the units with two jumper wires and your battery/a jump box. these units are only + and -.
Posted on Sep 23, 2008
SOURCE: cigar lighter is not working ?
The fuses are metal-bladed, plastic housing devices and they are sometimes difficult to remove. Many cars have a fuse puller inside the fuse box but any auto parts store will have them and they are included with fuse assortments they sell.
Once you are roaming around getting fuses and puller, consider buying a low-cost digital multimeter too. The parts stores have them or, if you are in the US, Radio Shack will too and don't spend more than $20 US at either, you don't need more meter than that for household use. If you are in the US, check the white pages for your area for Harbor Freight. If you have one, you can buy a meter there for <$10.
With meter, and fuse removed, set the meter to the resistance scale (Ohms) and the lowest setting, generally 200. Check across the metal blades of the fuse and if the meter display shows something close to zero (typically they will show test lead resistance of .2-.6 on the display if the two leads are held together), the fuse is OK. If the display just blinks at you as it does with nothing connected to the meter leads, the fuse is open (blown).
The fuses are color coded but make sure that the value of the fuse (from your newly purchased handy assortment) is the same as your old one unless it is something under 10 Amps. If it is, use a 10 amp fuse as the replacement.
And remember, smoking kills - (us).
Posted on Oct 15, 2008
This is a fuse problem, check the fuse, it will either be marked lighter or power point, the fuse box is to the left of the steering column it has a plastic cover over it, inside the cover the fuses will be marked on a diagram. If the fuse blows again the cigar lighter is shorted, you will have to replace it, most times the lighter element is the problem and not the well it fits into.
Posted on Oct 16, 2008
If it was the front dash mounted lighter socket you used, the correct fuse is the 15A CIG & RADIO fuse (at the end of the second row) of the dash fusebox. If replacing the fuse hasn't fixed it, you may need to look closer at the wiring from the fusebox as it's likely the wiring has gone open circuit.
Take the fuse out and check for voltage at the terminals in the fusebox with the ingition key turned to the ACC position. One terminal or the other will have 12V on it. If no voltage on either you have a fusebox to ignition key wiring problem. Check for voltage on the ACC pin of the ignition switch, with the key turned to the ACC position. That's pin 3, a blue wire, of the 8 pin ignition switch connector. If still no volatge the switch is likely faulty. the voltage into the switch must be there as it also feeds the ECU and IGN systems, so the car wouldn't run at all if it wasn't.
There is another possibility. If you have an alarm system, immobilizer or turbo timer (assuming the GTT model) these devices could be interrupting the power lines and be the culprit devices.
I assume it wasn't the rear hatch area lighter socket you used, because the fuse for that doesn't power the radio or clock. The fuse for that socket is the 15A ACCESSORY fuse in the passenger side footwell fuse panel.
Posted on Oct 31, 2009
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