Question about 2008 Mercury Mariner

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Can i completely bleed, clean resavoir and clean out master cylinder, replace brake fluid and just put it all back. As opposed to having to buy new master cylinder or booster or both and it is a 2008 - not a 2006.

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I think you need to change a new brake booster ( brake servo )
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Posted on Nov 17, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: I have no pressure in my brake lines.

Make sure youre bleeding the lines correctly. Also you may have purchased a faulty master cylinder, trust me on that i bought two back to back and they were bad batch. check for cracked lines throughout the system.

Posted on Nov 06, 2009

airjer995
  • 5332 Answers

SOURCE: My ex wife put power steering fluid in the brake

Immediately **** out the contents of the master cylinder, replace with fresh brake fluid, and flush the system.

Flushing can be done by doing a good old fashioned manual bleeding consisting of one person opening and closing the bleeder screws and one person working the brake pedal or many shops will have a brake flush machine that will make quick work of the job.

The P/S fluid in the brake system will cause the seal to bloat and eventually fail. We see several cars every year that this happens to. If its caught early a system flush will take care of it. If ignored everything gets replaced (master cylinder, brake hoses, calipers, and wheel cylinder). We have had a few over the years that where ignored for so long that the brakes eventually locked up.

Posted on Sep 30, 2010

  • 200 Answers

SOURCE: brake pedal has alot of

The air seeping is a dead giveaway. Your power brakes are now manual brakes, but stiffer. The diaphram in the brake booster has torn and the hissing noise is the engine vacuum escaping (you hear it louder when you depress the pedal right?). Replace the booster and you will be fine. The brake lights probably don't work because you can't push the pedal down far enought to release the switch. Please rate. Thanks.

Posted on Sep 03, 2011

Testimonial: "I am grateful for your help.I was told so by a mechanic that it was brake booster diaphram or abs pump.pedal has so much pressure and hissing."

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I have an 01 GMC Jimmy 4.3L 4WD & we are trying to bleed the brakes but the scanner says my vehicle is going 3MPH so we manually bleed the brakes but the pedals still easily is pushed to the floor.


Bad master cylinder . What are you using a scan tool for ? No need Unless your Installing a new Electro-Hydraulic Control Unit (EHCU) or new Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV).
Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding (Manual)
Caution: Refer to Brake Fluid Irritant Caution in the Preface section.
Notice: Refer to Brake Fluid Effects on Paint and Electrical Components Notice in the Preface section.
Place a clean shop cloth beneath the brake master cylinder to prevent brake fluid spills.
With the ignition OFF and the brakes cool, apply the brakes 3-5 times, or until the brake pedal effort increases significantly, in order to deplete the brake booster power reserve.
If you have performed a brake master cylinder bench bleeding on this vehicle, or if you disconnected the brake pipes from the master cylinder, you must perform the following steps:
3.1. Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir is full to the maximum-fill level. If necessary add GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Refer to Fluid and Lubricant Recommendations.
If removal of the reservoir cap and diaphragm is necessary, clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the cap prior to removal.
3.2. With the rear brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, loosen and separate the front brake pipe from the front port of the brake master cylinder.
3.3. Allow a small amount of brake fluid to gravity bleed from the open port of the master cylinder.
3.4. Reconnect the brake pipe to the master cylinder port and tighten securely.
3.5. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.
3.6. Loosen the same brake pipe to purge air from the open port of the master cylinder.
3.7. Tighten the brake pipe, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
3.8. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 3.3-3.7 until all air is purged from the same port of the master cylinder.
3.9. With the front brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, after all air has been purged from the front port of the master cylinder, loosen and separate the rear brake pipe from the master cylinder, then repeat steps 3.3-3.8.
3.10. After completing the final master cylinder port bleeding procedure, ensure that both of the brake pipe-to-master cylinder fittings are properly tightened.
Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir remains at least half-full during this bleeding procedure. Add fluid as needed to maintain the proper level.
Clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the reservoir cap prior to removing the cap and diaphragm.
Install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve.
Submerge the open end of the transparent hose into a transparent container partially filled with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.
Loosen the bleeder valve to purge air from the wheel hydraulic circuit.
Tighten the bleeder valve, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 8-10 until all air is purged from the same wheel hydraulic circuit.
With the right rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the right rear hydraulic circuit install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
With the left rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air purged from the left rear hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
With the right front wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the right front hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
After completing the final wheel hydraulic circuit bleeding procedure, ensure that each of the 4 wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valves are properly tightened.
Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the maximum-fill level with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
Slowly depress and release the brake pedal. Observe the feel of the brake pedal.
If the brake pedal feels spongy, repeat the bleeding procedure again. If the brake pedal still feels spongy after repeating the bleeding procedure, perform the following steps:
21.1. Inspect the brake system for external leaks. Refer to Brake System External Leak Inspection.
21.2. Pressure bleed the hydraulic brake system in order to purge any air that may still be trapped in the system.
Turn the ignition key ON, with the engine OFF. Check to see if the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated.
Important: If the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated, DO NOT allow the vehicle to be driven until it is diagnosed and repaired.
If the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated, refer to Symptoms - Hydraulic Brakes

Feb 26, 2017 | GMC Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1997 mercury sable gs 3.0l replaced master brake, still having brake pedal feeling spongy and slowly traveling down. i bench bled master brake and bled brake right rear left rear right then front.


If the master cylinder is replaced, care must be taken to prime the new master cylinder by removing all of the air and completely filling it with brake fluid. The spongy feeling is air that is still in the circuits. You will need to bleed the back brakes as well as the front ones again. The order that you bled them seems correct, but perhaps there remained some air in the main trunk lines.

For the best results 2 people are needed. Start at the further distance wheel cylinder and bleed at least three (3) master cylinder reservoir volumes of fluid (back brakes). Bleed the fluid with use of a piece of tubing attached to the bleed port that is long enough to reach almost to the bottom of a long neck or tall clear jar (clear drink bottle works well). When the bleeding begins, after one or two brake pedal pushes, make sure that the end of the tubing is below the surface of the fluid and keep it under. It best to have a clear bleed line (to observe air). Keep pumping the brake pedal while being careful to not completely empty the master cylinder reservoir (leave 1/4 full always). Repeat the same technique for each wheel cylinder with at least two (2) reservoirs full for front brakes. Partially close the bleed ports when almost finished (at least 5 pedal strokes without exit of any air). Completely close the ports during the down stroke of the brake pedal, with the tubing still attached. Be sure each bleed port is closed snuggly.
Most of the brake fluid can be reused, but not the darker portion at the bottom of the jar.

Oct 09, 2016 | 1997 Mercury Sable

1 Answer

No brakes on a 1986 honda accord


Did you get a good bleed with fluid coming out at all four wheels? If they bled good, and the pedal still goes to the floor, you need to check the brake master cylinder-it is probably shot with an internal leak. An internal leak will not let fluid pressure build up, so no brakes.

Did you keep the brake fluid reservoir from going dry while bleeding? If it went real low, air might have got back into the lines.

It is not uncommon when bleeding brakes on an older vehicle for the master cylinder to suddenly develop an internal leak and require replacement . Here's why: pushing the pedal all the way to the floor causes the master's piston to push in farther than ever before. The rubber cups then travel over a section of the cylinder not usually touched by the cups-old fluid can develop a crud there and when the piston pushes over it, the cups can get ruined. To avoid this when bleeding brakes, put a short piece of 2X4 wood block under the pedal. Then the pedal will not extend the master's piston beyond it's normal travel. Of course on a new master cylinder, you do not have to do this. A new master cylinder does require bench bleeding before installing, however, to ensure no air pockets develop from there.

Aug 24, 2014 | 1986 Honda Accord

1 Answer

1990 jeep wrangler bleeding breaks


Hi there:
I suggest to check this procedure, when the hydraulic brake system must be bled whenever a fluid line has been disconnected because air gets into the system.

A leak in the system may sometimes be indicated by a spongy brake pedal. Air trapped in the system is compressible and does not permit the pressure applied to the brake pedal to be transmitted solidly through the brakes. The system must be absolutely free from air at all times. If the master cylinder has been overhauled or a new cylinder has been installed, bleed the cylinder on a bench before installation. When bleeding brakes, bleed at the wheel most distant from the master cylinder first, the next most distant second, and so on. During the bleeding operation the master cylinder must be kept at least 3 / 4 full of brake fluid.


The ABS bleeding procedure is different from the conventional method. It consists of the following three steps:
Step 1: Conventional manual brake bleed.
Step 2: Bleeding the system using the DRB scan tool.
Step 3: An additional conventional manual brake bleed.

The recommended ABS bleeding procedure is as follows:
  1. To bleed the brakes, first carefully clean all dirt from around the master cylinder filler cap. Remove the filler cap and fill the master cylinder with DOT 3 brake fluid to the lower edge of the filler neck.
  2. Bleed the master cylinder first. Have a helper operate the brake pedal while bleeding each master cylinder fluid outlet line. Do not allow the master cylinder to to run out of fluid,as this will allow additional air to be drawn into the cylinder.
  3. Bleed the brake system in the following sequence:
    1. Master cylinder
    2. HCU valve body (at fluid lines)
    3. Right rear wheel
    4. Left rear wheel
    5. Right front wheel
    6. Left front wheel
  4. Clean off the bleeder connections at all four wheel cylinders. Attach the bleeder hose to the right rear wheel cylinder bleeder screw and place the end of the tube in a glass jar, submerged in brake fluid.
  5. Open the bleeder valve 1/2 - 3/4 of a turn.
  6. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly and allow it to return. Continue this pumping action to force any air out of the system. When bubbles cease to appear at the end of the bleeder hose, close the bleeder valve and remove the hose.
  7. Check the level of fluid in the master cylinder reservoir and replenish as necessary.
  8. After the bleeding operation at each wheel cylinder has been completed, fill the master cylinder reservoir and replace the filler plug.

Do not reuse the fluid which has been removed from the lines through the bleeding process because it contains air bubbles and dirt.


  1. Perform the "Bleed Brake'' procedure with the DRB II scan tool. This procedure is described in the DRB II software information and diagnostic guide.
    1. Attach the DRB II scan tool to the diagnostic connector.
    2. Run the Bleed Brake procedure as described in the DRB II tester guide.
  2. Repeat the conventional bleeding procedure as previously outlined.
  3. Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level.
  4. Check the brake operation.


Hope this helps.

Apr 21, 2013 | Jeep Wrangler Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I change my master cylinder for my brakes and now I have no brakes what could be my problem to that


you must have a lot of air in system. the brakes need bleed to let the air out of system. did you bench bleed the master cylinder before putting it on car ! if not thats why no brakes. to bench bleed a new master cylinder, put it in a vise. fill it full or the proper level of brake fluid. push on the plunger with a dowel or another object. pump it till all air is out of master cylinder, you can tell when no air. it will be all fluid coming out of cylinder. keep checking brake fluid in master cylinder.make sure you push plunger in all the way.when all air is gone replace on car. if you do not loose any fluid from the master cylinder lines, then you can replace it without having air in system. bleed each wheel if needed. good-day!

Jul 10, 2011 | 2006 Chevrolet Impala

1 Answer

How to replace the brake master cilinder


Remove the lines running to it, and then unbolt it from whatever surface it's mounted to.
You will need to BENCH BLEED your NEW MASTER CYLINDER.
This can be done by taking some rubber hose and putting it from the holes for the lines, back into he reservoir on the new master cylinder. Make sure the new master cylinder is full of fluid. Put the master cylinder in a bench vice, and press in the plunger repeatedly with a screwdriver until no more air bubbles come out.

Then put the new master cylinder back to the mounting surface, and reattach the lines. Bleed the entire brake system.

May 10, 2011 | 1998 Nissan Sentra

3 Answers

Busted wheel cyl on rear wheel lost fluid now no pressure back there what do i look for


if it is the wheel cylinder that is leaking then it will have to be replaced and all the components cleaned with brake cleaner.depending how badly soaked the brake shoes are you may have to replace them also.you may have to heat the brake line that connects to the wheel cylinder,or even replace the line if it gets damaged.the bleed all the air out of the system,

Mar 17, 2011 | 1997 Dodge Stratus

2 Answers

No petal after bleeding breaks


check fluids under hood and make sure the master cylinder isn't also if you bleed your breaks a good rule of thumb is to do all 4 with 2 people one in car and other bleeding and always start with the passenger rear tire then drivers rear and then passenger front and last drivers front and keep master cylinder full between bleeds

Feb 07, 2011 | 2002 Ford Escape

3 Answers

TRYING TO CHANGE MY FRONT BRAKE PADS ON MY GS300 LEXUS 1993. MY QUESTION IS WHEN I TAKE RIM OFF AND LOOSEN UP THE CALIPER TO RELEASE BRAKE PADS AFTER RE-INSTALLING I SHOULDN'T HAVE TO BLEED THE BRAKES LIKE...


Replacing brake pads involves pushing the pistons all the way back into the the caliper. This will force fluid up into the master cylinder. Sometimes it also allows some air to get past the piston seal and cause 'soft' pedal. In this case bleeding is required. Anyway the brake fliud should be completely changed by pressure bleeding at this time.

Mar 19, 2010 | 1994 Lexus GS 300

1 Answer

Brake pedal goes down to floor. Putting brake fluid doesn't solve problem. Vehicle must coast to a complete stop.


First look for obvious leaks under the vehicle, especially the inside area of each wheel... If you see fluid, you have either a blown cylinder seal or a bad line (check the rubber hoses to the front and back brakes too) Repair the offending part and bleed the air out of the system... (remember to clean pads or shoes if they have fluid on them)... If you see no hint of leakage anywhere, then suspect the master cylinder... if you remove the master cylinder, check and make sure that it didn't leak fluid into the brake booster diaphragm (Brake fluid will destroy the booster)... as in any repair when you open the system (lose fluid), you will need to bleed out the air to restore function... hope this helps...;-)

May 04, 2009 | Ford Aerostar Cars & Trucks

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