Question about 1992 GMC Sonoma
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
remove the rear shaft from a 1990 full size gmc van (g-van) make sure the one you select has the scew on sleeve at the front of the rear section of the shaft
this will be the right lenght
take the rear yolk off your old shaft cut of the ball socket now get the same u-joint your truck calls for and mount the rear yolk (the section of the shaft that bolts to your rear end) to the new shaft
this works ive done it
you eliminate 2 of the 4 u-joints and lighten up your shaft this releives strain on you tranny and rear end when these u-joints and ball bearings fail they cause the vibrations which ruin the rest of your drive train also you gain 10hp
i spent 300 bucks rebuilding the OEM shaft and got no where so for 25 bucks i did this
Posted on Sep 24, 2009
SOURCE: ecm on 2000 sonoma s10
napa has them on the shelf re manufactured already for 150 to 200 dollars. best quality i have used in after market parts. always have problem with auto zone stuff so i don't even bother no more. good luck
Posted on Oct 08, 2009
Removal & Installation
2-Wheel Drive - 2.2L Engine
Negative battery cable Front exhaust pipe, if necessary for access Starter heat shield, if equipped Brace rod from the front of the engine and the bell housing Drivers side wheel to access the starter motor wires and the starter motor attaching bracket-to-engine bolt through the opening in the wheel well Wires from the starter solenoid Attaching bracket-to-engine mount bolt Starter-to-engine block bolts. When removing the last bolt, be sure to support the starter to keep it from falling and possibly injuring you. Starter and shims (if equipped) from the vehicle Bracket from the starter assembly, if equipped
Fig. Starter motor and related components - 2.2L engine
Bracket to the starter, if removed. Tighten the bracket nuts to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm). Starter and shims (if equipped) into position in the vehicle and thread one of the retaining bolts to hold it in position. Bracket-to-engine mount bolt (loosely), if equipped Starter mounting bolt, then tighten all mounting fasteners to 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm) Wiring to the solenoid Brace rod and tighten the retainers Front exhaust pipe and tighten the fasteners, if removed Starter heat shield, if equipped Driver-s side wheel, if removed Negative battery cable
Hope helped with this (remember rated this help) Good luck.
Posted on Nov 18, 2009
Mark the driveshaft and yoke in a manner that will allow you to reassemble it in the same orientation that it's in now. This is done to avoid driveline vibrations. Next remove the 4 7/16" head bolts on the driveshaft yoke. Use a lone screw driver or pry bar to pop the driveshaft off the yoke and slide the other end out of the transmission. Using a u-joint tool press out the old u-joint and press in the new one. You could bring this to a machine shop or a mechanic and have them do it for you if you don't have the correct tools. I think autozone may rent a ball joint press out for free. Next reassemble it orientated the same way you took it off.
Posted on Dec 04, 2009
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