Question about 1991 Mazda 929

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Hi I have a 91 mazda sentia s limited i have lowered it and the negative camber is upsetting the four wheel steer i want to stop the four wheel steering from working, make the back stiff like a normal car i know nissan have a lockbar for there 4ws vut i cant find anything for mine is there any thing i can weld to hold it stiff or is there any hydraulic lines i can blockup to hold everything straight cos im prepared to get rid of 4ws completely but i dont know what to replace it with etc.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Mazda 626 hatchback limited 2000

Fussy old bugger, when's the last time you had a front end alignment? Has it always been off center? Have you had any front end work done (tie rods replaced etc?) If the steering wheel has never been off, it shouldn't have to be removed now (unless it was installed improperly at the factory-doubtful) Yes you MUST disable the air bag to remove steering wheel. Any chance the car hit a curb, pot hole, etc? !st thing should be an alignment at a good garage, they should be able to find any damage to front end components caused by a pothole/curb. correct, and align. That should correct the position of the steering wheel and make you a smiling fussy old bugger. countrycurt0 PS-I'm a fussy old bugger too.

Posted on Aug 15, 2008


SOURCE: Mazda 626 power steering problem

it is normal to lose your steering, bcos it it being powered by the engine,hence it can go down when the main power source dies (ENGINE)

Posted on Dec 23, 2008

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SOURCE: 2004 Mazda RX8 Power Steering not working and light on.

I would check your power steering fluid level first. If it's full your power steering pump is bad.

Posted on Jan 19, 2009

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: 2004 mazda rx8 power steering

The Mazda RX8 has electric power steering there is no fluid. You may have a problem with you electronic power steering control moduel, or the power steering pump

Posted on Dec 04, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: power steering electronic over hydraulic is not


my 2004 RX8 has the same problem - can you let me know if you get a fix.

Thanks very much


Posted on Mar 04, 2010

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How do i remove the steering wheel on a 1989 mazda b2200

  • 1st thing you want to do is position the steering wheel straight, easier when you put one back on. If it's never been removed before you might need the help of a puller
  • 2nd is to disable the horn. Easiest way to do that is by just removing the negative cable from your battery.
  • 3rd is to remove center wheel cover on the three spoke steering wheel you can just simply peel the cover off. On two spoke steering wheels (which is stock), you'll need to remove three or four screws on the back side of the steering wheel. Then pull on the front cover, unplug the horn wire from the connecter, and set the center section aside.
  • 4th is to loosen steering wheel retaining nut. With a 21mm or 13/16ths socket and maybe a breaker bar, you'll want to loosen the retaining nut that is holding the steering wheel on the column. Back it off until it is approximately flush with the end of the bolt. Leaving the nut on the end of the bolt will prevent steering wheel from hitting you in the face when and if you try to use your own strength to pull it off.
  • 5th is pull the steering wheel. Try and give a firm tug on the steering wheel while wiggling it right to left to pull it off the column.
As said above, if the steering wheel has never been removed before, it's probably going to require a gear puller or steering wheel puller. You can acquire one of these at your local auto parts store. Good luck


Feb 14, 2015 | 1988 Mazda B2200


Should I worry about my vehicle's alignment

Alignment refers to the way your car's wheels are positioned. Your wheels should be parallel and facing forward.

How does alignment affect my vehicle?
When your wheels are properly aligned, you'll get better gas mileage, your tires will last longer, steering will be easier, and your ride will be smoother and safer.

What could go wrong with my alignment?
Several factors could contribute to a shift in alignment including old, worn-out components including Ball Joints, Control arm bushings, and poor road conditions, resulting in a few different problems including Camber, Toe and Caster, and if any of these problems develop, they will take a toll on your vehicle's tires, performance and manageability. Worn out shocks and struts can also be a serious problem with un-even tire wear.

The wheels are tilted, either inward or outward. This will create pulling and tire wear.

A change in the distance between the front and back of the front or rear tires. This will wear on the tires, too.

A backward or forward tilt at the top of the wheel's spindle support arm. This will cause either loose or difficult steering.

If any of these problems develop, they will begin to take their toll on your car's tires and performance, as well as steering

How will I recognize a problem with my alignment?
Check your steering wheel when you're driving. Does it stay straight? Does it vibrate? When you are traveling along a straight road, does your vehicle pull to one side? Is your steering loose, or difficult to control? Have you noticed uneven tire wear?

Check your tires periodically. A number of different things can affect your tires - from alignment to suspension components.
As a general rule, you should have your alignment and related components, such as ball joints, control arm bushings, checked every 10,000 miles or once a year, and there are three types of alignment jobs with a good-better-best approach.

Two-wheel geometric centerline alignment.
This adjusts the toe on your front wheels only. This will work only if your rear wheels are properly aligned. (Used mostly on trucks and older rear-wheel drive cars).

Four-wheel thrust line alignment.
This aligns the front wheels to the rear-wheel alignment.

Complete four-wheel thrust line alignment.
This is the optimal approach: aligning all wheels straight ahead and parallel.

After a thorough review of your alignment, your The Wright Import technician will present you with the findings and all of your options before beginning any work on your vehicle.

What is a wheel alignment? How does it effect handling and tire wear? When should I do an alignment? What causes alignments to go out? How would I know if my alignment is out?

A wheel alignment is nothing more than setting the angle of the hub/wheel so it tracks in the right direction. Most vehicles have four-wheel alignments, meaning each of the four wheels is separately aligned. Your basic alignment consists of three angles: camber, caster and toe-in. Camber is the tilt of the tire when viewed from the front of the car. Positive camber means the top of the tire is tilted away from the car. Negative camber means the top is tilted in. Camber has a lot to do with cornering performance. Too much negative camber will wear the inside of the tires prematurely. Too much positive camber will wear the outside tread.

Caster is the inclination of the front spindle. Picture the angle of the forks on a bike top to bottom. When the caster is out, it creates a pull or wandering condition and sometimes a slow responding steering wheel. Toe-in is measured in inches or degrees. Viewing from the front of the car, it is the difference between the front and rear center-line of the tire. Toe-in means the fronts of the tires are closer together. Toe-out means, the fronts of the tires are farther apart. Toe-in or out has the most effect on tire wear.

When your car is out of alignment, the tires will wear prematurely. In some extreme cases, new tires will be gone within 500 miles. At the price of tires, especially high performance tires with soft compounds, you want to keep your vehicle in alignment as long as possible. Other symptoms of an out-of-alignment car are poor handling, pulling to one side, or wandering from side-to-side. An alignment will also affect the steering wheel response and how quickly it returns to the center.

Your vehicle's alignment should be checked every 10,000 to 12,000 miles. Any harsh impact such as potholes, curbs, objects in the road, or the damage of an accident, should prompt you to have your alignment checked. If you do any modifications to your suspension, raising or lowering your car, that will affect the alignment angles. Even changing the tire size will effect the alignment. Loose, worn or bent suspension parts such as ball joints, springs, bushings, and control arms will have an adverse affect on your alignment, too. In most cases you do not know if your alignment is out. The best way to check it is with a precision alignment machine. Laser optics combined with a computer allow for the most accuracy in alignment readings.

Remember you are aligning the hub of your vehicle. Check to see if the alignment shop or dealer has equipment that attaches to the hub, not the wheel. Many independent shops that do alignments have a specialty tool called "Tru Align" that attaches to the hub. This will make for a much more accurate alignment with the added bonus of not damaging the delicate finish on your wheels.

There is a lot more to suspension alignment, especially if you push your vehicle on the track. The modifications you make on your suspension are just the beginning. Once you start down this road you will be concerned with things like bump steer, weighting (vertical load), pre-loading, tire traction versus tire load, and more. Now you're thinking under-steer, over-steer, tire compound, sway bar design, and other topics that can be covered in a later article. For now, just remember to have your vehicle aligned every 10,000 to 12,000 miles in normal driving conditions.
If you accidentally hit a curb, or drive through a nasty pothole or other road obstruction, that would be a cue to have your car's alignment checked more often. Proper alignment is good for your car. It will save unnecessary wear on your tires. It will ensure that your vehicle is giving you the handling the factory designed the car to have. And, most importantly, a properly aligned car is safer and more fun to drive. Have your alignment, ball joints and suspension checked regularly checked regularly

on Dec 11, 2009 | Ford F-150 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do i install a new dash for 83 mazda rx7

Instrument Panel and Pad REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. If so equipped, unfasten the inside hood release handle.
  3. Remove the steering wheel and the lower steering column cover.
  4. Remove the glove box, switch panel and console. Fig. 1: Loosen the retaining nut to unfasten the inside hood release handle 85810013.jpg
    Fig. 2: If necessary, remove the dash mounted speaker covers to access hidden instrument panel bolts 85810003.jpg
    Fig. 3: Due to space limitations, some bolts are best removed with an open end or box wrench 85810004.jpg
    Fig. 4: Other bolts are easily removed with a socket 85810005.jpg

  5. Remove the meter (gauge) hood, heater control panel mounting screws and separate the heater controls from the instrument panel frame. Remove the combination meter.
  6. Remove the air duct(s) and the steering shaft mounting bracket bolts. Allow the column to lower.
  7. Disconnect and label the meter wiring. Unfasten the mounting bolts and remove the crash pad and instrument panel. Fig. 5: Some of the instrument panel attaching bolts are hidden behind removable trim covers or plugs. Carefully pry off the cover . . . 85810006.jpg
    Fig. 6: . . . then remove the bolts with a socket 85810007.jpg
    Fig. 7: The glove box must be removed to unfasten some of the instrument panel retaining bolts 85810008.jpg
    Fig. 8: Other retaining bolts are accessible with the meter hood and combination meter removed 85810009.jpg
    To install:
  8. Position and fasten the crash pad and instrument panel, being careful to route the wiring correctly. Attach the meter wiring to its appropriate connections.
  9. Raise the steering column to its normal operating position and install the steering shaft mounting bracket bolts. Connect the air ducts.
  10. Install the combination meter. Install the heater controls into the instrument panel frame with the mounting screws. Attach the meter hood.
  11. Install the console, switch panel and glove box.
  12. Install the steering wheel column cover and steering wheel.
  13. If applicable, attach the inside hood release handle.
  14. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Nov 05, 2010 | 1983 Mazda RX-7

3 Answers

What are the advantages and disadvantages of changing wheel sizes on mx5 1997

A slightly larger wheel and lower tire will help the car to "turn in" a little better and be more responsive but make the ride quality a little harsher. A much larger wheel with very low profile tires will completely ruin the way the car drives and feels on the road but may make the car more appealing to the younger crowd and also have the effect of making its owner think he is going to get laid more.

Mar 19, 2010 | 1990 Mazda MX-5

1 Answer

How do you adjust the rear camber on a Mitsubishi

have you lowered the car? There are bolts that you can get which allow you to adjust your camber. They are called cam bolts, I found some at my local napa store. I would really recommend taking the car to a tire shop or a shop with an alignment rack. If you try to eyeball it, chances are that you will have weird handling, and possibly accelerated tire wear. I fixed my negative camber issues on my 91 eclipse gs-t at my local community college while I was taking the suspension class. I have since steppe up to an evo8. Mitsubishi's are my favorite!

Mar 06, 2010 | 2003 Mitsubishi Lancer

1 Answer

Right negative it adjustable? The toe was out of adjustment........when adjusted to specs the camber was still -2.3 degrees

Camber is the lean "off perpendicular" of the wheel. This error could be worn control arm bushings or something bent from a collision or pothole curb hit. Jack up the car from the lower control arm, not the frame. This will keep weight on the front suspension same as if it's on the ground. With the tire about 2 inches off the ground and the car wheels chocked safely, now you can check for wear. Do not get under the car !!!! Use about a 2 foot steel bar or pipe, placed under the wheel. Now lifting up see if there is loosness , clunking of the wheel or movement of the control arm bushings.

Feb 05, 2010 | 2006 Mazda 3

4 Answers

I keep having to replace wheels on my car.... the wheels are wearing unevenly i took it to a guy and he says the that there is a bar under there that keeps the wheels strait up and that bar is bent so my...

was your car in a wreck since you have own it?
that would be the only way anyone could bend steering or suspension parts.if your tires are leaning out on top,
it would be a part called"lower control arm assembly",
if you stand in front of your car with the steering wheel straight,and your tires are pointing in on each side,or pointed out instead of straight,that would be a "tie rod "
there is an inner tie rod and an outer tie rod end.
you need to take your car to a shop that does alignments,and have them tell you exactly what is wrong,you can even get lower control arm assemblies
from a salvage yard.but do yourself a favor and don't take your car to a MONROE or MIDAS type shop,they are only there to sell and make commissions! Find a normal shop that the owner is the mechanic.

Nov 26, 2009 | 1998 Chevrolet Monte Carlo

1 Answer

Front camber adjustment Mazda 323 Astina 1997

their is no camber adjustment,its factory preset so to speak by virtue of its design.If you are having a`problem with tyre wear on this side then first measure outside wheel rim front to back wheel through centre ,both sides and see if distance is more that half a centimetre,look at distance between back of wheel and wing if its not equal each side of car then you have a problem.if its just a bit of scuffing on outside of tyre then this is normal and its caused by the power steering.If the wheel is not within the same distance either side then its either a body jig to straighten or the lower track control arm bent ,this sort of thing is caused by people drinking and driving or using a mobile phone whilst driving ,and wacking the kerb.Or evan worse women drivers trying to reverse park with wheel on lock and trying to mount pavement.

Mar 08, 2009 | 2006 Lexus RX400h Used Cars

1 Answer

Negative camber

On your Celica.
Check if the Strut is NOT bent.
Or if the car was not involved on accidente on the front.
Check the Comdittion of the Lower Ball joint, LOwer control arm.

Check if the Camber in your car is adjustable.
Removing the Tire and removing the Bolt that hold the Strut in position. If the Holes in the Strut are Like Oval, is adjustable.
But if NOT. Some Autoparts SELL a Camber kit. That include
New bolt and washers.

But if you Don't want to spend money on the KIT.
Remove the Tire , Remove the 2 Bolt that hold the Strut.
And make the Holes A little oval the holes .
Move a little at front and rear. For make the strut adjustable.

Ok I hope this help on your problem...
Thank you for use fixya,,,,,,

Aug 22, 2008 | 1995 Toyota Celica

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