Question about 1992 Chevrolet Lumina APV

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1991 Lumina Euro

My 1991 Lumina Euro, Cuts Out After The Engine Gets Warm, Ive Changed The EGR Valve And The Ignition coil.. She Dosnt Spit And Sputter Before She Cuts Out. She Just Cuts Out.. What Else Would Cause This I Was Told It Could Be The Computer Or The Crank Sensor

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  • patey_666_69 Apr 23, 2009

    You Know How I Would Check To See If The Crank Sensors Gone? I Hooks Her Up To the Computer But She Shows No Troubleshoot Codes..


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These cars seem to be especially problematic. There is a rubber vacuum block at the top of the throttle valve assembly. You will have to find a replacement at a junk yard (good luck). There are a lot of work-a-rounds for the vacuum block but none seem to work - apparently the rubber block leaks just the right amount. Remove the cover this thing plugs into and clean the area and any rubber or residual stuff. Use some of the gooey black high temp gasket in a tube but dont foul any of the holes. While you are at the junk yard find a set of the plastic lines that go with the rubber block - preferably all together in good condition. you can replace short bits of it with gel vac tubes -MOT RUBBER LINES (they leak too much) but in general you cant replace all of it with anything but the hard formed GM lines. check each line segment with a vac pump kit to make sure they are not cracked and the seals do not leak. Also check the vac canister in front of the driver side front wheel. If this does not solve the problem, check the TPS and the MAP sensor to make sure their voltages is within tolerances - need needle probe to do this: check hot side, ground side, and signal on both - google for specs. Remove the PCM and clean the terminals and plugs. there are some expensive sprays at radar shack for doing this. WD40 is not a cleaner but might help with prevention later. Also check the codes, jumper method if nothing else. Sometimes these give an indication of a problem, at least indicating which part of the wiring has issues. Parts are expensive so test inplace before replacing much of anything except the rubber block and vac lines.

Posted on Jul 21, 2012

  • vcoder Sep 04, 2014

    Since I put that up I have found that WD40 (real stuff) works as well as anything else on the circuit interconnects, including those involving the PCM


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Crank sensor could be the culprit. Not likely to be the PCM.

Posted on Apr 23, 2009

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  • Mark L. Roberts Jr.
    Mark L. Roberts Jr. Apr 24, 2009

    how about pending codes that have not come up yet?

  • Mark L. Roberts Jr.
    Mark L. Roberts Jr. Apr 27, 2009

    I would check to see if the engine is getting spark when it heats up. A spark check tool can be purchased at most auto parts stores for about seven dollars. If you don't get spark when it's hot then I would change the crank position sensor. Hope this helps. Good luck

  • vcoder Sep 04, 2014

    Actually in the Lumina Sedan the PCM has significant probability of failure due to the fact it is mounted in front of the passenger side front wheel. We were not able to solve the problems completely until the PCM was removed and all of the interconnects were treated with WD40. This seems to need repeating every year or so. Having maintained one of these for several years, my experience suggests you don't replace anything unless it does not test within tolerances. Hint: high voltage coils have a higher failure rate than magnetic sensors.


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