Question about Ford E-150
There are 4 belts: alternator, air pump, power steering, A/C -- all four are being chewed down to nothing in about 500 miles driving. All but the air pump belt are either driven by the crank pulley or the water pump pulley.
- checked pulley alignment even w/ engine running -- no alignment problems found
- checked for excessive vibration -- none observed
- removed crank pulley -- no defects found
- removed harmonic balancer -- no defects found
- checked and rechecked belt tension
I have noticed recently some noise (like the fan hitting the shroud during accelerating turns) which I think could be a motor mount problem.
Also, there is a recent vibration when the engine is pulling -- I think this is a U-Joint going bad.
These two symptoms above are recent -- the v-belt problem predates them, but these two things could be a factor -- I don't know how, but anything is possible I guess.
One other point of interest: I had a garage put in a new engine about 4000 miles ago. They installed the wrong flywheel (a 28 ounce versus 50 ounce). This caused excessive vibration and could have damaged crank bearings. It was driven about 1800 miles before I could convince them they had installed the wrong flywheel and they should replace it (it's a very long story). In any event, there doesn't seem to be any damage to the engine, but I wouldn't know without taking it apart.
The belts were fine for the first 2000 miles I drove it after the correct flywheel was installed -- then the shredding started.
So what could be causing the belts to wear down to nothing?
My next move is to replace the crank pulley although I (and others) can't find anything wrong with the one that's on it now.
Here are a few choices. If equipped with A/C the air could ice up the compressor and stop the a/c clutch, shredding a belt. Width of belt pulley, if narrow pulley has fat belts and fat pulley has narrow belts, then possible to shred. Has anyone cranked down the damper on the crankshaft? If the bolt comes loose or the woodruff key is worn you could get a wobble from the crank.
Posted on Apr 23, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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Mar 07, 2016 | Ford Cars & Trucks
Excessive belt tension will cause damage to the alternator and water pump pulley bearings, while, on the other hand, loose belt tension will produce slip and premature wear on the belt. Therefore, be sure to adjust the belt tension to the proper level.
To adjust the tension on a drive belt, loosen the adjusting bolt or fixing bolt locknut on the alternator, alternator bracket or tension pulley. Then move the alternator or turn the adjusting bolt to adjust belt tension. Once the desired value is reached, secure the bolt or locknut and recheck tension.
Fig. . . . then remove the alternator belt from the engine
Fig. . . . then remove the power steering belt from the engine
Fig. Accessory V-belt routing-Mitsubishi 3.5L and 1998-00 3.0L SOHC Galant engines
ALTERNATOR AND A/C COMPRESSOR
Mar 21, 2013 | 1996 Mitsubishi Mirage
Belt tension is very important, as a belt that is too tight will put too much stress on the bearings of the components it drives, causing them to wear out prematurely. A belt that is too loose will slip, causing (1) the belt to wear out quickly due to friction heat, and (2) inefficient alternator, air pump, cooling fan or air conditioner operation because much of the turning power supplied by the main drive pulley is lost.
The belts should be inspected and/or adjusted at 2,000 miles (3,221 km) and then every 4,000 miles (6,441 km). First, make sure that the belt is properly positioned in the pulley. Check the pulleys for damage. Inspect the belts for cracks and signs of fraying. These usually develop on the inner surface and extend into the backing or outer surface of the belt. Check also for glazing, a completely smooth appearance which indicates slippage. A belt that is in good shape will have a slightly grainy appearance like cloth. Replace belts that show cracks or glazing.
Check belt tension. Apply pressure with your thumb at the mid-point between two pulleys, and the belt should stretch or deflect about 1 / 4 - 1 / 2 in. (6-13mm). If the belt is too tight or too loose, adjust/replace as necessary.
See Figures 1, 2 and 3
To adjust belts, first locate the mounting bolt on the air pump or alternator (each has its own belt and adjusts to permit that belt to be tensioned correctly). This bolt attaches the unit to the engine and has a nut on the end. Put a wrench on either end and loosen the bolt until there is practically no tension on it. Then, loosen the adjusting bolt, which is located on the opposite side of the unit and which passes through a slot. Pull the alternator or air pump away from the engine and tighten the adjusting bolt just enough to hold the unit while you check tension. Repeat the adjustment procedure until the belt deflects the proper amount, then fully tighten the adjusting and mounting bolts. Avoid too much belt tension or overtightening of bolts. A new belt should be tensioned just slightly more (about 0.4 in. or 10mm deflection) and checked after several hundred miles of operation to make sure that tension is still adequate. (Tension is lost very rapidly until a new belt is broken in.)
Fig. Fig. 3: On some GLC engines equipped with power steering, the pump pulley uses a slotted adjusting bar, adjusting bolt and locknut to adjust belt tension
Late model GLCs, 323s, 626s, MX-6s and 929s may use an adjusting bolt on either the idler pulley (a pulley which is not directly associated with any of the accessories) or on the power steering pump itself. This bolt makes adjustment much easier because you don't have to hold the accessory under a great deal of tension while tightening the mounting bolts.
On models where the idler pulley has a locknut at its center, simply loosen the locknut, then turn the adjusting bolt clockwise to increase belt tension or counterclockwise to decrease it or remove the belt. Do not forget to retighten the locknut when tension is correct, or vibration may cause it to fall off. Recheck the tension with the locknut tightened and readjust if necessary.
To adjust the power steering pump pulley on the GLC, loosen the slotted adjusting bar bolt, the mounting bolt across from it, and the locknut at the bottom of the adjusting bolt. Turn the adjusting bolt counterclockwise to remove the belt or reduce tension, and clockwise to increase it. When tension is correct, tighten the adjusting bolt locknut, adjusting bar bolt, and pump mounting bolt.
On 626, MX-6 and 929 models with a 4-ridge or 5-ridge ribbed type V-belt driving both the air conditioner and power steering pump, belt tension is much greater. With a used belt, deflection should only be about 1 / 4 in. (6.35mm).
See Figures 4, 5 and 6
The RX-7 may be equipped with as many as three or four separate drive belts. The belts are arranged at the front of the engine and drive the cooling fan/water pump, alternator, power steering pump, emission control air pump and air conditioner compressor (if so equipped).
Fig. Fig. 4: Checking belt tension on 1979-85 RX-7
Check the tension of each belt at the arrows numbered 1, 2, 3 and 4 (depending on year) shown in the illustration. Press on the belt with your thumb using moderate pressure (about 22 lbs.). The belts should give or deflect the amounts shown in the chart.
Fig. Fig. 6: RX-7 belt deflection limits
Use the following appropriate procedure and illustration to make drive belt adjustment(s).
ALTERNATOR AND AIR PUMP
See Figure 7
Fig. Fig. 7: Adjusting alternator drive belt tension on 1986-89 RX-7
When prying on the alternator or air pump, make sure the prybar is anchored against the engine case and not against a component (distributor cap, etc.) which could break.
Fig. Fig. 8: Adjusting air conditioning compressor drive belt tension on 1986-89 RX-7
Fig. Fig. 9: Adjusting power steering pump drive belt tension on 1986-89 RX-7
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
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Park vehicle on level
2. Remove battery from vehicle.
3. Remove air cleaner outlet hose, engine under cover ( right side ) and exhaust pipe # 2 .
4. Disconnect " B " terminal wire and coupler from the Alternator ( Generator ) .
5. Remove Alternator ( Generator ) belt.
6. Remove power steering
pump. Do not disconnect hoses.
6. Remove Alternator ( Generator ) cover.
7. Remove Alternator ( Generator ) bracket mounting bolts.
8. Remove Alternator ( Generator ).
Power Steering pump has three bolts- 2 behind the pulley
at 12 and 6 o'clock and one bolt on the back.
Once you get the power steering pump out of the way you can
remove the last bolt on the alternator
Ok...I did not remove axle or disconnect hoses on power steering...I did unbolt power steering pump and moved off to side.
after that I disconnected sensor on throttle
body and very carefully lifted alternator through the top where your air intake
assembly would have been at, right next to A.C. refrigerant lines.It
takes a minute , you HAVE TO BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE SENSOR!!
However it is a lot faster that taking off drive shaft and
If you go to AutoZone .com they
have exploded diagrams of the parts you have to take off and they will show you
bolt locations, the power steering pump bolt at 6 o'clock drove me crazy.
P.S. Get a ratcheting 12 mil wrench, it's a life and knuckle saver!!
Oct 16, 2008 | 2004 Suzuki Aerio
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