Question about 1993 Mazda 626

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I am not getting any break fluid to one of my rear break calipers when trying to bleed them after replacing the caliper

I am not getting break fluid to the left rear break caliper when trying to bleed them after replacing the caliper.

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  • josh1111 May 11, 2010

    are you sure you have the plug open enough for it to flow thru? or try to bleed other brakes it may be master . keep me informed.

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  • 11 Answers

Check the bleeder valve on the caliper. A lot of times those come bad brand new or clogged.

Posted on Apr 23, 2009

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2 Answers

How do i disable r/r caliper on 2004 expedition


The only way to disable a rear brake caliper that is seized is to get a small pry bar and use force to slide it back to the release position.place the pry bar in. The open space top of the caliper
25451082-az15v3devurpko3w4b520lul-5-0.jpg Then if I were in this situation since you come this far I would simply replace the caliper the slide bolts are 7mm Allen type.
then remove the brake fluid feed line don't forget to replace the
copper seals on the main brake fluid feed connector.
then bleed the system do this by opening the air bleed
valve its 8 or 10 mm just crack it open maybe you one full
turn then place your finger on the top were the fluid comes out.
have some one pump brakes slowly all the way down and release
brake pedal continue this until you feel pressure at tip of your
finger then release brake pedal on the last pump hold brake pedal
down and tighten then release pedal.
Good to you!

Feb 19, 2015 | 2004 Ford Expedition

1 Answer

Brake


There are several problems. Your caliper could be stuck and that is a problem. You probably have a rubber brake hose that is clogged up internally and restricting the flow of fluid, a second problem.
The internal rubber hose can form flaps which close off the flow of fluid. You only have pressure in 1 direction so it is easier to have a stuck caliper because the fluid will trap in the caliper and refuse to return to the Master cylinder.
But this must really be blocked or the safety valve has shut off the diagonal lockout for the ABS. For safety when fluid pressure is lost, a valve shifts and tries to keep a front and a rear brake diagonally supplied with fluid.
What you need to try before giving up on the current project is bleed your brakes starting from the longest rear line and work your way forward with the last line being the shortest.
You may discover that you now have fluid bleeding from the problem caliper. If so, part of the problem was the safety valve killed the fluid flow. You still have a bad rubber line, and possibly a stuck caliper, but now you may have fluid flow.
If I were you, I would buy a rubber brake line and change it before bleeding the system. Then you can see if the caliper is working or not. Rubber lines are cheap compared to most parts.
By bleeding the lines as I recommend, you stand a chance of centering the safety valve and solving part of your problems. If a rear line diagonal to the problem front caliper is also dry, then the safety valve was tripped.
With the rubber brake line removed, you should be able to compress the problem caliper with ease; if not, it is stuck and should be replaced.
At this point, I should mention the ABS box. Pressure coming from the box can be measured as well as Master cylinder pressure going to the box. Hydraulic gauges would be necessary. It would be the final explanation to your problems should the easier solutions fail. Testing price versus component price should be considered.
You will restore fluid flow and be able to test your stuck caliper using what I gave you.

Jun 02, 2013 | 1998 Mercury Mystique

1 Answer

Rear breaks not working I've tried bleeding over and over and the rear still isn't getting fluid I changed the hose also on the caliper I changed still nothing can someone tell me if its the metal lin


Its possible that the line has rusted. Diconnect the line working your way to the master cylinder. See if you start getting fluid. Or you could have something blocking the line at the master cylinder.

Feb 28, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Break fluid leaking fron break caliper


you have to replace caliper and bleed line for air,after change.

Feb 23, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Replacing caliper on 2002 dodge neon


The first thing is to make sure the caliper piston is all the way in, the caliper then slides over the brake pads and bolts on, make sure you have the correct caliper on the right side, the way to know this is when caliper is on the little bleeder screw should be on the top, if it is on the bottom then wrong caliper, try the other one,

After caliper is on you will then need to bleed the brake system,
This all depends on what happened, if the brake fluid did not all leak out and caliper was just bad then before removing brake hose off old caliper pinch rubber brake line with a pair of needle nose grips or there is a line crip tool that crips hose to avoid fluid from leaking out. this makes bleeding easier , other wise you will need to make sure fluid is full and start at the right rear wheel bleeding and move to left rear then right frt and last left front, you will need to keep an eye on the level of brake fluid and add as need to keep it from going empty,
you will need some one to pump and hold brake while you bleed them, pump pedal three times and hold down while you open bleeder screw, this is to be done to every wheel about four to five time to make sure all air is out . good day. note if pedal feels low bleed again wont hurt anything just a little more fluid lost.

Aug 03, 2012 | 2002 Dodge Neon

1 Answer

Replaced master cylinder but right rear brake line gets no fluid


Hi bradrolader
check on abs distributor if the car has, or a tee joint.that links rear right
break hose to the banjo bolt on the caliper bleeding nipple for blockage.
Raymond

Jun 23, 2012 | 1993 Acura Integra Hatchback

2 Answers

When replacing the brake pads on a 2001 oldsmobile alero do you have to bleed the brakes? and how do you do that? One website said all you have to do is take out 2 bolts (we did that and cant get the...


Normally, just a pad replacement would not necessitate brake bleeding. Most calipers are held on by two bolts, so I think the website was right. The reason you could not get the caliper off (and I am guessing here) is that you did not push the piston(s) back into their bores before trying to remove the caliper. Pushing the pistons back is always necessary to give you enough room to get the new pads into place. A C-clamp does this job well. Before pushing on the pistons with the C-clamp, you need to remove the cover of the brake fluid reservoir under the hood and put a towel or something over the top of it. Pushing the pistons in will push brake fluid back through the lines into the reservoir and will often cause it to overflow.

It sounds like the bolt you removed that started the brake fluid dripping was in fact what is called a bleeder valve. Now that the brake lines have been opened, you may in fact have to bleed the brakes after you get the new pads installed.

Oct 22, 2009 | 2001 Oldsmobile Alero

1 Answer

Just put new brake caliper on front driver side


Gravity bleed caliper, just open valve and have a coffee break and close it. Did you buy a loaded caliper with new pads on it? Check the rear wheel cylinders they may be the cause of your mushy pedal. They are cheap too.

Jun 09, 2009 | 1992 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera

1 Answer

Rear brakes wont bleed. Sucks fluid in when brakes applied. Has ABS.


try this. open the two bleeder screw at the rear calipers. leave it open untill the fluid drips generously. close the bleeder. try the brakes. if it works bleed it the nornal way. note: make sure you dont run out of fluid in the master cylinder

Jun 02, 2009 | 1991 Lincoln Mark VII

2 Answers

Changed break line but still have no pressure in breaks


to do a complete job. you need to bleed all 4 wheels, starting from Right Rear. Right front. Left Rear. Left Front.

Apr 07, 2009 | 1995 Chevrolet Silverado 2500

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