Did you remove the transmission lines too? did you remove the linkage from the gear selector to the transmission? And last. Did you remove the plate near the bell housing? If you remove that plate you'll see the flywheel teeth that the starter engages to to spin the engine over.. And you'll see bolts holding the torque converter to the flywheel. You need to remove one bolt.... Turn the engine over by hand at the crankshaft with a ratchet until the next bolt is in a position to remove. Remove it and continue till all the bolts are off.... Then try to remove the transmission... You absolutely have to unbolt the torque converter or it won't pull out. The space to get those bolts out will be fairly tight.. A ratchet wrench would be the fastest. A regular ratchet might fit.. But if it doesn't a box end wrench will work.
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How to Remove a Chevy Blazer Rear Transfer Case
The transfer case on a Chevrolet Blazer is underneath the vehicle, mounted to the rear of the transmission. On four-wheel drive vehicles, the transfer case takes power generated by the engine and channeled through the transmission and directs it to the front and rear drive axles. Over time, the gears and bearings inside the transfer case can wear and the transfer case must be rebuilt. The transfer case on this vehicle must be removed before it can be serviced.
Things You'll Need
Disconnect the ground cable from the negative battery terminal, by using a wrench to loosen the retaining bolt and pulling the clamp off the terminal.
Raise the vehicle and support with jack stands placed underneath the frame.
Drain the transfer case. Locate the drain plug near the bottom of the transfer case. Place a waste oil collection pan underneath the plug and use a socket to remove it. Once all the fluid has drained out, reinstall the plug.
Remove the bolts that connect the rear driveshaft to the rear axle yoke using a socket. Lower the driveshaft, and slide it backward underneath the rear axle to disengage it from the transfer case. Remove it from the vehicle.
Remove the bolts that connect the front driveshaft to the front axle yoke using a socket. Lower the driveshaft, and slide it forward underneath the front axle to disengage it from the transfer case. Remove the driveshaft from the vehicle.
Removing the Transfer Case
Label and disconnect the electrical wires and vacuum lines connected to the transfer case. Use masking tape and a marker.
Remove the transfer case shifter rod. Using needle-nose pliers, remove the clip that connects the shifter rod to the transfer case. Slide the rod away from the transfer case.
Position a floor jack underneath the transfer case. Raise it enough to take the weight of the transfer case off the transmission.
Remove the bolts that connect the transfer case to the transmission using a socket or wrench.
Slide the transfer case rearward to disengage it from the transfer case. Lower the floor jack, and remove the transfer case from the vehicle
first remove both front and rear driveshafts. Then remove skid plate underneath transfer case. Remember to unplug the electric motor wiring harness for explorers with electronic four wheel drive switching. Remove vacuum line on the top of transfer case. Unbolt Speedometer cable mount from top/rear of transfer case. Remove five bolts connecting the transfer case to the transmission, this step will cause some transmission fluid to leak from the shaft housing (approx. half a litre) so place a drain pan underneath. Remember to either place a jack or wood blocking under transfer case before removing the last bolt connecting the transfer case as it is heavy (approx. 80-90 lbs.).
ok.. Start with unhooking the battery, removing both drivelines, exhaust, and crossmember while supporting transmission with a jack. Remove all wiring connectors and hoses from transfer case. Remove starter, and torque converter bolts thru the starter hole..
remove the six transfer case to adapter bolts and slide off the transfer case. Disconnect all electrical connectors, hoses, and unbolt transmission cooler lines. Support the transmission with a jack, and remove all of the bellhousing bolts. You should be able to wiggle the transmission, and get it to back off of the engine and then should be able to lower it. Reverse procedure to install, and make sure the new one has fluid in it before you start it up.
your output seal on the tranny or input seal on your transfer case is bad. you have to pull your transfer case to tell. this is a pretty straight forward job. block wheels. put transfer case in neutral. drop front and rear drive lines.diconnect transfer case shift linkage. there is a short commponent connecting the trans to the transfer case. the bolt on either end face each other. remove the bolts to the transmission. the transfer case is heavier than it looks, i suggest getting help. pull back on the transfer case until it will drop down. it will pull out a bit because of the trans output shaft. replace what will probibly turn out to be the tranny output shaft seal and reassemble in reverse order.
It should work for you as long as there both 4L60E transmission, but take not there were a few changes to the transmission case and everything internal are the same. The key distinction of the Later 4L60-E (1997-2006) from the Early 4L60-E (1992-1997) or 4L60 (1990-1992) or 700R4 (1982-1989) is the six-bolt "hex" rear output or tailhousing / adapter pattern. The previous versions featured a four-bolt square bolt pattern at the adapter or tailhousing. Additionally, the removeable bellhousing is also another distinguishing feature. The Late 4L60-E transmission has a three piece case of cast aluminum alloy; bellhousing, main case, and tailhousing. GM shortened the package to 21.9" long - equivalent to a manual transmission of 15.4". Good luck and you should not have any problems swapping out the transmission.
jack and secure thr truck, remove all linkage and wiring, both drive shafts, block up the transmission, remove suppoet member ust a trans jack to support transfer case, unbolt from trans, carefully pull back and lower, install is reverse
Raise the vehicle. Support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Disconnect the range selector cable from the transmission bracket and from the transmission range select lever. Refer to Shift Cable Replacement .
Remove the rear propeller shaft. Refer to Rear Propeller Shaft in Propeller Shaft.
Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
Remove the transfer case if equipped. Refer to the appropriate Transfer Case Replacement in Transfer Case:
Transfer Case Replacement (Selectable Four Wheel Drive) .
Transfer Case Replacement (Auto Four Wheel Drive ) .
Transfer Case Replacement (Manual Four Wheel Drive) .
Gasoline Engine--Remove the following components:
The transmission to engine brace
Diesel Engine--Remove the following components:
The transmission to engine brace
Remove the transmission rear mount.
Remove the frame crossmember.
Remove the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifolds. Remove the muffler assembly from the exhaust pipe, if required. Refer to Exhaust System.
For the 5.0L Gasoline Engine: Remove the six bolts securing the converter cover to the transmission.
Remove the starter. Refer to Starter Replacement in Engine Electrical.
For the 4.3L Gasoline Engine: Remove the dust plug at the end of the starter mounting port in order to gain access to the converter bolts.
For the Diesel Engine and 7.4L/5.7L Engines: Remove the four bolts securing the converter cover to the transmission.
Mark the flywheel and the torque converter alignment.
Remove the bolts that attach the torque converter to the engine flywheel.
Remove the transmission vent hose.
Disconnect the wiring harness connectors from the vehicle speed sensors and from the park neutral position switch.
Remove all vehicle electrical harness wires, harness clips, tubes, and brackets that may interfere with the removal of the transmission.
Remove the fluid fill tube and the fill tube seal from the transmission. Refer to Filler Tube Replacement .
Plug the fluid fill tube opening in the transmission.
Disconnect the transmission oil cooler pipes from the transmission. Refer to the oil cooler pipe quick connect fittings removal procedure in Oil Cooler Hose/Pipe Replacement .
Plug the transmission oil cooler pipe connectors in the transmission case.
Install the J 21366 in order to keep the torque converter from sliding off of the transmission turbine shaft.
Support the engine with a suitable jack stand before removing the transmission from the engine.
5.0L and 5.7L Gasoline Engine: Remove the studs and bolts securing the transmission to the engine.
4.3L Gasoline Engine: Remove the studs and bolts securing the transmission to the engine.
Pull the transmission straight back from the engine.
Lower the transmission using the transmission jack.
Flush the transmission oil cooler and the pipes whenever you remove the transmission for overhaul, or replacement of the torque converter, the pump, or the transmission case. Refer to Transmission Fluid Cooler Flushing .
Clean the transmission case using a solvent dampened cloth. Do not allow solvent to enter the transmission.
Air dry the transmission.
Clean all hardware and the flywheel cover using solvent. Air dry all the parts.
Inspect all the components for wear and damage.
Inspect all the seals and the fittings for signs of wear.
Inspect the torque converter for stripped or broken weld nuts.
pretty simple if its the 4.0l start with the radiator next the fan go under the truck disconect exsaust at manifold dis connect trans case if you have a 4 wheel drive this takes alot of weight and length of the trans disconnect all wires and lines to trans since your under there both drive shafts go to top disconnect all wires lines fuel lines ect. next break the motor mounts u wont be able to take these out til u get your cherry picker conected up and get pressure of the bolts. pull motor mount bolts and raise the engine a little. gounder the truck again u might want a jack under the trans drop cross member start pulling
Oh lord, are you in for some work. First of all you will need a transmission jack, a must and a couple of strong guys if you don't have a lift. First things first. Disconnect neg. bat. cable. Raise up on jack stands. Disconnect drive shafts and tape bearings caps on drive shafts. Remove Starter. Disconnect wiring harness plugs from transmission and transfer case. The wiring harness connection on the shift linkage does not remove. There are 2 connectors and are glued at factory. Remove whole shift linkage unit from side of trans. Remove exhaust. Remove dust cover. Mark spot on flywheel and tourque converter, then remove bolts from flywheel. Support trans. with jack. Remove transfer case bolts from trans. Remove mount nuts from transfer case bolts. Remove bell housing bolts from motor to trans. Remove bolts from crossover support for transfer case mount from the main frame. Raise up transmission and remove crossover support. One guy now supports transfer case and other works transfer case loose. The transfer has to be jockeyed around until it drops out. It will not come straight out or down because of the tor. bar support frame. It has to be wiggled out and down. Guy supporting transfer case gets trans fluid bath and this is all muscle work. With transfer case out, put another jack under motor for support or risk breaking motor mounts and other things. Slide transmission back and lower down and its free, It is a very dirty, oily, nasty hard job. I just went through it. I wouldn't do it again. If you can afford it, take it to a pro. Well worth it. Remember once started, your pretty much commited. Reverse the whole thing to install. Good Luck