Question about Volkswagen Jetta
It seems that the drivers door lock has a fault because it will not operate the central locking mechanism
I can unlock OK from passenger door so do not think its a problem with the vacumn pump
If i manually press the locks on rear passenger doors the passenger door lock locks ok as does the drivers door
Understand from another forum that theres a small part in the door lock which can break but is replaceable but without a diagram i am loathe to pull it apart
My Haynes Manual only talks about the vacumn pump
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2004 Honda Accord Euro. Central
I am a mechanic and had the same problem with a 2005 Acord that I purchased couple of months ago. Contact through the trade provided little help. The problem arose during a week that we in Adelaide, South Australia had a record o 40+ degrees centigrade heat. I noticed the drop knob slightly moving when the immobiliser was activated, but the drivers door failed to lock. Key locking would lock all doors however.
The cost of a door actuator from a Honda dealer was $185.00 (Aus), about $250 (US). The spare parts guy told me they had them in stock and sold a number of them. As a result I decided to find out whether the actuator was in fact faulty. I susequently removed the door lock and actuator assembly from the door. (A fiddly type job). The actuator assembly is in a plastic sealed assembly. By using a lot of patience and a box cutter I was able to cut around the assembly and then carefully lever the plastic housing apart. This revealled the small electric motor (similar to a slot car motor) that drove a worm and wheel assembly and a system of cams that actuated the door lock system. I found on dismantling the electric motor that the armature was coated with grease from the wormwheel /cam assembly that is mounted above the motor when installed in the vehicle. I cleaned the armature and brushes using superfine wet and dry carborundum paper, undercut and cleaned out the two armature segments of all remaining grease with a solvent. The motor was then tested with 12 volts and found to be ok. I then reinstalled the motor and glued the housing back together. It now works fine. I believe the housing was either initially overfilled with lubricant or that the high ambient temperature caused the grease to melt and flow into the elecric motor contaminating the motor. (There is no seal between the gearbox and the electric motor). The job took a few hours from start to finish but I saved the cost of purchasing the part and didn't let it beat me.
Cheers and beers
Posted on Mar 26, 2009
There probably is. My 99 Audi A4 has a release cable in the trunk. It's behind the trunk lining above the filler neck. Mine's red for easy identification - just pull it and it pops the gas door. While it's open, spray the lock with some white lithium grease or PB Blaster, and work it in. It may be that the latch is just sticky and those should clear up its operation.
Posted on Nov 08, 2009
i would check the door lock actuators and also make sure you have a good battery. have your battery tested vw have a lot of electrical issues due to battery problems.
Posted on Jan 22, 2010
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