It has a new thermostat, but still overheats. The top radiator hose bolges like it is going to explode?
I am having the same kind of problem myself my car is over heating too. but when i let it idle for a while it doesnt over heat. once i take it on the road it starts to overheat after about 5 miles going about 50-60 MPH. i have changed the thermostat and the radiater cap. when i was changing the thermostat i thought it was on top so i took apart the intake manifold to get to it. when i pulled it up i noticed one of the gaskets had a tear in it. could that possible be the problem. the tear looked like it had been there already. what should i do?
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Re: My 98 subaru forester is over heating
Change the gasket is a must. You don't want antifreeze mixing with your engine oil. The antifreeze is carrosive to the engine bearing. The other thing to is if your radiator hose is soft and lod, they can and will collapse ristricting the flow of antifreeze.
Last to look at would be a weak water pump and you are going to have to change that.
Start with changing the radiator hose since it's the cheapest. Keep an eye on the oil antifreeze to make sure you aren't have the two mix.
Change the intake manifold gadket soon as posibel.
Good luck and hope this helps.
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After the car is at operating temperature feel the top radiator hose with car running. you can feel the movement of the water'
You should also check for a bad thermostat part open b4 anything else
Hope this helps Mike
Hi Heather, Generally if there is no heat, there is no coolant in the radiator. Check if you can see coolant in the overflow tank. If none, add some. Then it's important to find out where the coolant has gone. Check hoses and connections for leaks at the radiator and elsewhere. Coolant hoses also run to the heater core and across the top of the engine to the thermostat and thermo-sensor.
Subarus tend to block their radiators. Often there is only 10% or less flow. The radiator needs to be taken out and have a radiator shop strip and rod out the core tubes or fit a new or recored radiator.
can be challenging to "burp" Sometimes it takes several attempts to
get the air out of the system. The procedure is simple. Top off the
radiator, squeeze the hose a few times to help get the air out, replace
the cap and start the car. let it idle or drive slowly near home with
the heat on high. once the temp gauge begins to rise, if there is no
heat get the car back to the driveway before the temp gauge gets half
way. Shut the engine off wait for it to cool, at least 10 minutes.
Then check the radiator again. If there is still air top off again and
repeat. After 3 or 4 attempts if there is still air and or the coolant
reservoir seems to be filling, try replacing the radiator cap. If this
doesn't solve the problem, It may be a head gasket.
Getting all the air out is actually quite simple. Fit the thermostat. Make absolutely sure you know which way it goes in: ask the dealer if you are unclear. Put it in backwards and it does not work properly. Fill the radiator, and start the engine and let it idle. In about 5 minutes, the thermostat will open and the coolant level will go down. Stop the engine, fit the cap and top up the coolant. Now, squeeze the top hose, say, 10 times: you'll hear the coolant gurgle a bit. Remove the cap and top up the coolant. Start the engine and repeat. Eventually the gurgling will stop and all the air is out of the engine. Usually takes 2 or 3 iterations.
The head gasket may be a problem, but it may be simpler, if your thermostat is on the bottom of the engine.
If coolant came out when the thermostat was changed, there should be a screw, probably plastic, that goes into the radiator, or near the inlet hose, at the top. This screw is used to release steam when car overheats to restore the vaccum. Turn car on and let idle to overheating temperature. NOW PROTECT YOURSELF FROM GETTING A STEAM BURN. Turn the screw very slowly until steam starts to come out, don't unscrew all the way or you will loose a lot of coolant all over your engine. make sure the coolant resevore has enough coolant to get sucked back in to the engine or this will take longer. Continue this process until there is no steam coming out, I let mine go until a little liquid coolant starts to bubble out from around the screw. Tighten screw and keep a watch on your temp gage, you may have to do it a couple of times as the coolant forces the air pockets out of the line. If this doesn't solve your problem then I would say check the headgasket.
The cooling system is under pressure, this could have been a weak spot in the radiator when it was manufactured , and over time (11 years) of being under pressure, it split open. If the car overheated for some reason, it could have caused this (pressure is higher if it overheats). You may be able to have it removed and repaired at a radiator shop, but it probably would be quicker to purchase a new one.
I had the same problem with my 1993 Liberty LX. Remove the thermostat (located inside bottom radiator hose engine connection - take the connection off and thermostat is inside). Reassemble (minus thermostat), reconnect bottom hose. Slowly (very, very slowly) refill the radiator and remove the bleed plug ( located beside the top hose connection to the radiator - a black square plug with a phillips head cross in the middle). When the radiator is full and clear water (no air bubbles) is coming out of the bleed point, replace the bleed plug and then the radiator cap.
Run the engine for five minutes (approx) or until normal engine temperature is reached. Allow the engine to cool down and recheck the water level - fill if necessary ensuring that the bleed plug is open and clear water is coming out of that point. Replace Bleed plug and then radiator cap. Run engine for five minutes (approx) and then test dive. If the engine overheats keep filling the radiator until there are no air bubbles coming from out of the bleed point.
This fixed my overheating problem. Good luck and safe motoring.