Question about 2000 Toyota Celica

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My e brake is not clamping the rear rotors when it is engaged i know how to adjust the brake but i can not find out where on the line i can adjust it.... do i do right at the e brake handle or do i do it in the e brake line some where

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On the e-brake line you adjust the brake. it should be located on the under of your car just after the engine. It has to bolts on a nut.

Posted on Apr 22, 2009

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When I apply brakes I get a severe vibration in whole pickup


I would say your problem is still possibly brake related because of your experience with clamping the rear lines. You have changed everything out in the system except the Master Cylinder and the actual brake lines. Never heard of Master Cylinder causing symptoms you describe, but I am only a shade tree mechanic. My only other suggestion would be to verify your rear tires are properly balanced. There is very little weight in the rear of a pickup and unbalanced tire(s) would exhibit the symptom in any car, but most especially in the rear of an unloaded truck. This is a tough one! Keep us posted on your progress in getting this one fixed.

May 03, 2014 | 2010 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

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How to remove brake rotors on a 1996 ford explorer


How to replace the rear brake pads on a 1995 through 2001 Ford Explorer The system utilizes a drum-in-hat type rear brake rotor. The integral drum allows the use of a drum-and-shoe type parking brake system. All other components are similar to their front disc brake components Remove the two bolts on either side of the brake hose with the rubber boots. Do not remove the four bolts where the axle ties in. The two bolts to be removed require a 10mm socket/wrench. Loosen the pads from the caliper Rotor Removal In order to take the rotors off (replace with new or have them machined), it is best to loosen the emergency brake shoes. To do this, behind the rotors, in the back there is a rubber plug, remove that and you can use a screw driver to engage the teeth of the adjusting screw, turn it clockwise to loosen, usually 10-20 teeth. Usually this means turn it downward. After this, it may still be difficult to get the rotors off without tapping them. Use a rubber mallet and hit them from behind. Before really whacking the rotor, make sure you have loosened the adjusting screw enough. It may take heavy swings of the rubber hammer to do this. It will eventually break loose. Parking Brake You might want to check the parking brake while you are here. To remove:
  • Remove the rear disc brake rotor.
  • Remove the outboard return spring.
  • Remove the adjusting screw spring.
  • Remove the rear brake shoe hold-down spring and pin.
  • Remove the brake shoe adjusting screw and nut.
  • Remove the front brake shoe hold-down spring and pin.
  • Remove both parking brake shoes and the inboard return spring.
  • Check the parking brake lever for excessive wear and replace as necessary.
To install:
  • Position the front parking brake shoe to the backing plate and install the hold-down pin and spring.
  • Install the rear parking brake shoe with the inboard return spring.
  • Position the brake shoe adjuster screw and nut on the shoes and install the rear shoe hold-down pin and spring.
  • Install the brake shoe adjuster spring.
  • Install the outboard return spring.
  • Adjust the parking brake shoes and install the rotor, caliper and wheel.
  • Lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel lug nuts to 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm).
ADJUSTMENT
  • Measure the inside of the drum portion of the rear brake rotor
  • Remove the rear disc brake rotor.
  • Using Brake Adjustment Gauge D81L-1103-A or equivalent, measure the inside diameter of the drum portion of the rear disc brake rotor.
  • Subtract 0.020 in. (0.508mm) from the first measurement, adjust the brake shoes to that size
  • Adjust the parking brake adjuster screw until the outside diameter of the parking brake shoes measures 0.020 in. (0.508mm) less than the drum measurement.
  • Install the rear disc brake rotor.
Reassembly Reassembly is easy. Put new or machined rotors back on by sliding them over the lugs (they should slide on easily.) Loosen bleeder valve (having a catch bottle handy is good). Push calipers in slowly (using a c-clamp or large channel lock pliers), close bleeder valve. Put on pads. Lubricate metal clips with small amount of anti-seize. Re-adjust the emergency brake by turning the opposite direction from loosening. Refill the brake master cylinder

Aug 09, 2010 | 1996 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

98 Ford Escort, Emergency brake doesn't hold car. Rear brakes okay, adjusted cable to 3 clicks. What am I looking for?


If you have rear rotors that look like a rotor mounted on top of a drum brake, you will have an emergency brake inside the drum portion. The rear brake rotors are not flat like the front rotors for this style.

The E brakes have brake shoes and they have "Star" wheels for adjustment just like the regular drum brake. You really need to take off the rear rotors to inspect the inner drum portion. If you do adjust the E brakes without looking at the drum part, chances are the drum is pitted and rusty and you will be lucky to stop once before the E brake linings are ground off.

The other type of E brake works off the Rotor pads. You will see the brake cable attached to a lever on each wheel. There will be an Equalizing cable connecting both rear wheels with an adjustment point joining the main cable. Although the 3 clicks moves the main cable, to have both rear brakes equally tight you need the Equalizing properly adjusted.

Those are the things you need to look for.

Jun 15, 2010 | 1998 Ford Escort

1 Answer

How do I push back the piston, brake cable is attached to the piston


Some of them are threaded, try turning it in with your hands before you go crushing it with a c-clamp. If it doesn't turn, get a big c-clamp and slowly squish it in and get it back on the rotor, it will adjust itself. I don't know about the cable being attached to it, usually the emergency brake is a mechanical brake brake,not hydraulic. Are you sure it isn't the brake line? Hope this helps.

May 31, 2010 | 1987 Subaru Gl 4WD

3 Answers

Compressing the rear disc brake caliper on 2008 grand caravan


The rear calipers on these models require a special tool that compresses and turns the piston in at the same time -- most parts stores carry this tool.

It is called a caliper piston press -- and it installs where the pads would go and acts like a c-clamp,when turning handle it will turn the caliper piston backinto the caliper as it compresses it.
Anytime the brake rotor or brake pads are being replaced, the rear caliper piston must be seated (bottomed) to compensate for the new brake rotor or lining. Because the Parking Brake self-adjuster mechanism is attached to the piston, a special seating method is required. The only acceptable method is by rotating the piston back into the bore using Retractor,MILLER Special Tool 8807, . Any other seating method will damage the self-adjuster mechanism.
Good luck and hope this helps.

Mar 07, 2010 | Dodge Caravan Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Pulling in left rear and brake and rotor used up faster than all others


Possibilities.
1. The Caliper is sticking open, causing the friction which equals the pulling; and the brake pads and rotors to be eaten frequently.
This means:
a. The Caliper is faulty.
b. The Brake Line Hose (if so equipped) going from Brake Line to the Caliper is faulty.
A. To Check which one is faulty:
B. Raise and Support properly the rear of the vehicle.
C. Remove the tires from both sides.
D. Inspect the brake springs and brake pad retainers (if so equipped) Missing or improperly placed springs and/or brake pad retainers (if so equipped) could possibly cause this also.
E. Using a 6-inch (or larger) "C"-clamp, place the top end of the "C"-clamp onto the back of the caliper. Do not place it on the Brake Line/Hose or the Brack Line connection to the Caliper. Place the screw end of the "C"-clamp onto the center portion of the outside Brake Pad, but not touching the Caliper Housing. Begin screwing-in the clamp, this will move the Brake Pad in, and push the Caliper Piston back into the Caliper Bore. If this is difficult to do, then that is your first sign that the Caliper is "sticking open".
If you are not sure how easy or hard this should be: Move to the Right Side of the vehicle and Clamp-in the right rear Caliper to get an idea of how easy/difficult it should feel. Compare the feel.
If the Left Rear Caliper is difficult to reset:
(1) Place a tight fitting Hose over the nipple of Bleeder Screw, located on the back of the Caliper. Do not cover the nut sides.
(2) Loosen the Bleeder Screw until fluid starts coming out.
(3) Reattempt to Clamp-in the brake.
(4) If it is now alot easier to Clamp-in, then it is the Brake Line Hose going from the Brake Line to the Caliper that is most likely faulty.

The Brake Hoses wear out on the inside, causing "gate-like" frayings. The fluid can flow out to the Caliper, but once the Brake Pedal is released these "gates" close, not allowing the fluid to return-out of the caliper. The Caliper maintains pressure on the Rotor causing the pulling of the vehicle and the wear-and-tear of the Rotor and Pads.
Let me know if this helped, or if you have any additional information, problems, or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!




Jan 30, 2010 | 2002 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

1999 Dodge Ram 1500 conversion van rear brake hammering


Are the brake shoes on right, there are two size shoes, One shoe has a longer brake lining then the other. The short brake lining is towards the front of the van and the longer brake lining is towards the rear. The rear brakes also may need to be adjusted, you can do that by going in revers in a empty parking lot and push the brakes as hard as you can to stop the van. Don't give your self a whip lash, just push down gradually and as far to the floor you can about 7 to 10 times. The self adjusters should adjust the brake on both sides, try this first before you take the brakes apart again. It may just need a adjustment and after that check the brake fluid in the master cylinder. Good luck and hope this helps. Keep me posted, be glad to help

Jun 20, 2009 | 1999 Dodge Ram

1 Answer

PARKING BRAKE LEVER- NO TENSION / DISC BRAKE ADJUSTMENT-OFF


If you remove the cover of the E-brake there should be a tention ajustment that you can do yourself.

May 19, 2009 | 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe

1 Answer

Changing rear rotors


The park brake shoes are on the inside of the rotors, you need to back off the adjustment on the park brake shoes to get the rotors off. They are cable operted and that is were the adjuster is.

Jul 20, 2008 | 2005 Dodge Magnum

3 Answers

Rear brakes on 2005 F150


You can't remove the rotors because the emergency brake is tight on the inside of the rotors. Make sure it's not engaged when you are working on the rear brakes. Block the front tires for saftey. Then you have to remove the rear calipers from the mounting brackets, there are two bolts that hold the calipers on. Make sure you hang the calipers securily with some wire so you don't damage the rubber brake line hose. Then you need to adjust the emergency parking brake shoes in order to remove the rotors. Theres a rubber plug on the backside of the rear hubs, once you look at the back of the hub you'll see the plug. It's on the top. Once you take out the plug, you need to use a screw driver to turn the star spindel. You need to turn the star spindel counter-clockwise in order to give yourself enough clearance to remove the rotors. The beauty of this design is that ford incorporated a drum and caliper system together, but it's difficult to take off the rotors if the emergency brake shoes are to tight. The inside of the rotors acts as the drums for the emergency brake system. I've done this and it's not that hard, but, I did have to replace the emergency brake shoes because they were worn out and the shoes fell off the metal backing plates when I finally got the rotors to come off. They only glued these shoes onto the backing plates, they don't rivet them so take your time getting the rotors off or you can damage the emergency brake shoes, but if you do they are cheap at napa. My service guide says to install the new rotors, use a couple of lug nuts to hold it on, then adjust the star spindal for the emergency brake all the way clockwise until you can't turn it anymore, then you must back it off 8 clicks counter-clockwise. Make sure the emergency brake is not engaged when you are doing this, the 8 clicks backwards compensates for when you do engage the parking brake because the shoes expands outwards. This adjustment sets the emergency brakes so they work properly. Once the emergency brake is properly set you can't remove the rear rotors, which is what your initial problem is. Then install the rubber plug back in the hole, put on the new pads and calipers and you're good to go.

Jun 25, 2008 | 2005 Ford F-150

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