Sometimes their is no spark to the distributor and it wont start
After driving the car then u turn it off it wont start up again it cranks but it wont start but after i leave it for a little while it will start. we check the ignition modulator, and the coil n their is nothing wrong with it. when it does not to start we check the spark in the distributor and there is no spark their. after let it sit for a bit it will start again.
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Re: sometimes their is no spark to the distributor and it...
Usually the ignition module will get hot and wont work proper till it cools down again .. you might check it when it is cool to see if its got fire from it .. Then this should tell you something about whats going on. thanks Jerry and holler if you need more. When posting please let us know what year your car is and also engine you have it is more helpful answering your questions .. thanks again ...
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Check for spark at the distributor if no spark check or replace coil pack. also check to see distributor is turning while engine cranking, if not, possible worn out or broken gear tooth on shaft inside engine.
if distributor turns, check for burnt or worn out points and/or contacts on distributor cap.
Okay, I am not convinced it is the spark. But there is a chance. The fact that torching the plugs allowed it to start tells me you engine is flooding. Do you smell gas? If you open the throttle body with the air cleaner off, does vapor come out when the engine had recently cranked? If it is electrical, then power to both ignition modules is failing, which means A. the ECM is not providing power to the modules, or B. The engine crank sensor has failed. The Cause could be a bad connection to the ECM. A scope will indicate whether or not the proper pulses are being input and output from the ECM to the modules. Of course it will need to be tested when it is not working compared to when it is. When cranking, the tach should move indicating rotation of the crank, if not, there is a good chance the crank sensor is no good.
some component is gettn hot and causing resistence-common in older cars-cud be a module--relay--computer part etc--u will need a data stream run at a shop to pinpoint--numbers and voltages are displayed for analysis-----
Ignition modules and pick-up coils are pretty common on the older fords.
When it doesn't start check for pulse at the coil. You can do this with a test light. Hook the lead wire of the test light to ground. Unplug the coil, turn the key on and see which of the two wires has power to it. Then plug the coil back in and back probe the wire that did not have power and crank the engine over. The test light should flash.
If it does not than I old suspect the ignition module and would probably replace the pickup cl in the distributor for good measure.
This was a fairly common symptom back in the day.
Check spark quality...it not only need spark, it needs good spark (should bridge at least a 1/4" gap with a strong snap and blue color.) Also, make sure engine timing is correct...If you don't have a "locked distributor" sometimes it may need adjustment. Incorrect timing can make the engine "kick back" when starting, or "lay down" while driving.
this is a classic symptom of a defective fuel pump pressure check valve, it is not holding pressure after the car is turned off, this causes the problem you have, the check valve is part of the fuel pump and that is located in the gas tank.
had same problems with cranking and wouldnt start , i had no spark not sure if you do but if not after performing tune up and still had no luck , i changed my camshaft position sensor under distributor and rotor , and she started right up . good luck