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Roger Posted on Oct 06, 2013
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Hello, I got the silent shaft, timed with the cam, crank and oil pump, thank you for the help with comments. now that it is runnin, it runs rougher then before i replaced the water pump and timing belts .it misses at an idle and it vibrates on the down idle and on the top end just before you shift to the next gear . I did a couple of test, i took the plugs out and 3 where lite in color, the forth was dark in color and had build up. The plugs are bosch platinum, the fine wire electrode on the lite colored ones was gone and on the darker one, it was still there. I unplugged the spark plug wire to the darker one and started the truck, it run the same. I am thinkin dead cylinder. i unplugged another spark plug and started the truck, run real rough. I put the plug wire back on. I got an old spark plug and plugged it into the plug wire that goes to the spark plug that is darker than the other 3, started the truck, got spark, so spark plug wire is gettin spark from the distributor. I reversed the plugs, i put the darker one in the plug wire and the old one i found back into the spark plug hole, started the truck and the spark plug was firing, so the dark colored spark plug is firin. I took out the old spark plug and replaced it with the the darker one. I pulled the plug wire off all the spark plugs one by one and put the the old plug in each wire and started the truck, all four spark plugs are firin. could this be a bad ring?? or could it be a bent or burnt valve. The darker plug that still has its fine electrode and build up, tells me, that this has been happen for awhile, before i worked on my truck. But why dose it run worse now then before? i dont have a compression tester to test the cylinders. My truck is a 1983 Dodge Ram 50, 4x4. The Motor is a Mitsubishi, Model # L026, Engine # G63B, 2.0, 4 Banger.Thank You for your time and any help. ps i told my wife that you guys could fix anything, she wants to know if you guys can fix a hubby....lol

  • Roger Oct 06, 2013

    I pulled the timin cover off again and the silences shaft was out of time. I lined up all four timin marks and put it back together, test run it and it runs great. Still has a bit of a miss, but always has had a little bit of one. It dose not vibrate at 3,000 rpms and more. Thank You Augie Grabell for your help and every one else too with your coments

  • Roger Oct 06, 2013

    I pulled the timin cover off again and the silences shaft was out of time. I lined up all four timin marks and put it back together, test run it and it runs great. Still has a bit of a miss, but always has had a little bit of one. It dose not vibrate at 3,000 rpms and more. Thank You Augie Grabell for your help and every one else too with your coments

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Bill Boyd

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  • Dodge Master 53,816 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 06, 2013
Bill Boyd
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Joined: Jan 04, 2013
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The only way to tell if you have a ring or valve problem is to do the compression test as it the best place to start . Once you have eliminated the compression from the equation then you can concentrate on why the cylinder is getting more fuel than the others. I would be checking for vacuum leaks for the rough running as an incorrect fuel / air ratio will cause missing. We cannot fix everything but we endeavour to point you in the right direction so that you can fix it.

1 Related Answer

Anonymous

  • 87 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 28, 2009

SOURCE: 93 honda accord engine no fire cylinder 1

Check timing belt,sounds like belt may have skipped.

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REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1.8L Engine
  1. If possible, position the engine so the No. 1 piston is at TDC.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  3. Remove the timing belt covers.
  4. Remove the timing (outer) belt tensioner and remove the outer timing belt.
  5. Remove the outer crankshaft sprocket and flange.
  6. Remove the silent shaft (inner) belt tensioner and remove the belt. Fig. 1: Silent shaft belt timing marks — 1.8L engine 89573g93.gif
    Fig. 2: Checking the silent shafts for proper positioning 89573g94.gif
    Fig. 3: Timing belt timing mark alignment — 1.8L engine 89573g95.gif
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  7. Align the timing marks of the silent shaft sprockets and the crankshaft sprocket with the timing marks on the front case. Wrap the timing belt around the sprockets so there is no slack in the upper span of the belt and the timing marks are still aligned.
  8. Install the tensioner pulley and move the pulley by hand so the long side of the belt deflects about 1⁄4 in.
  9. Hold the pulley tightly so the pulley cannot rotate when the bolt is tigthened. Tighten the bolt to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm) and recheck the deflection amount.
  10. Install the timing belt tensioner fully toward the water pump and tighten the bolts. Place the upper end of the spring against the water pump body.
  11. Align the timing marks of the camshaft, crankshaft and oil pump sprockets with their corresponding marks on the front case or rear cover. NOTE: There is a possibility to align all timing marks and have the oil pump sprocket and silent shaft out of time, causing an engine vibration during operation. If the following step is not followed exactly, there is a 50 percent chance that the silent shaft alignment will be 180 degrees off.
  12. Before installing the timing belt, ensure that the left side (rear) silent shaft (oil pump sprocket) is in the correct position as follows:
    1. Remove the plug from the rear side of the block and insert a tool with shaft diameter of 0.31 in. (8mm) into the hole.
    2. With the timing marks still aligned, the shaft of the tool must be able to go in at least 2 1/2 in. If the tool can only go in about 1 in., the shaft is not in the correct orientation and will cause a vibration during engine operation. Remove the tool from the hole and turn the oil pump sprocket 1 complete revolution. Realign the timing marks and insert the tool. The shaft of the tool must go in at least 2 1/3 in.
    3. Recheck and realign the timing mark.
    4. Leave the tool in place to hold the silent shaft while continuing.
  13. Install the belt to the crankshaft sprocket, oil pump sprocket, then camshaft sprocket, in that order. While doing so, make sure there is no slack between the sprocket except where the tensioner is installed.
  14. Recheck the timing marks' alignment. If all are aligned, loosen the tensioner mounting bolt and allow the tensioner to apply tension to the belt.
  15. Remove the tool that is holding the silent shaft and rotate the crankshaft a distance equal to 2 teeth on the camshaft sprocket. This will allow the tensioner to automatically apply the proper tension on the belt. Do not manually overtigthen the belt or it will howl.
  16. Tigthen the lower mounting bolt first, then the upper spacer bolt.
  17. To verify correct belt tension, check that the deflection at the longest span of the belt is about 1⁄2 in.
  18. Install the timing belt covers and all related items.
  19. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Did you paint the spark-plugs? Not Good!
Run wire from negative to engine or from engine to the body.
You may have placed the timing onto the Exhaust stroke rather than the compression stroke if you moved the engine or you didn't have the timing set properly during assembly - perhaps to the wrong notch on the cam-shaft.
Always spin engine by hand several times with spark-plugs removed to ensure that nothing binds.
If you removed the oil pump = you may have to prime it as there may be a low oil-pressure cut-off!
Crank-shaft sensor is one other possibility?  
Bad Cam-sensor will only make it harder on fuel.
Best I can do for now.
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I hope this has been helpful.

Oh, by the way you are lucky because the engine is not an interferrence type , so you can not damage the valves at least. Since you know the oil pump is out of time , check all the spark plugs again , they are probably oil soaked .
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