Water not circulating,we put on radeator cap water pump ,intake gasket,flush heater core,engine radeator,reservoir
What could cause water no to circulate?we changed thermo stat, water pump, intake gasket,radeator cap,flushed engine,radeator,heater core,flush and cleaned reservoir.do you have any suggestions please help the only traspertation to work
Re: water not circulating,we put on radeator cap water...
Check to make sure the bottom radiator hose is not collapsing. sticking together. once it sucks together its like the thermostat being closed. the faster the engine turns the it sucks together. also make sure its not the clutch on the fan gone bad. if it has one. to ckeck ,look under hood at fan ,have someone to rev engine. make sure the fan turns as fast as the engine turns . if it doesn't it's a bad fan clutch. goe put a new one on.
Re: water not circulating,we put on radeator cap water...
Sounds like your air locked inside there should be 2 bleeders one by the thermostat and in the front of the engine near the pulleys you will probably need a 5/16 or 8 mm wrench to crack them open do one at a time while running make sure all the air gets out and you get a steady stream of fluid coming out once it is bled or you think all the air is out go inside the car and see if you have constant heat if you do then all the air is out.also turn on the heater while bleeding it.
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Could be that the heater core is clogged... for the car to operate at optimal temperature (not to cold, not too hot) all cooking system had to be working properly, I had a '97 camaro, it had 2 previous owners and I had heater core issues and also the hose that goes to the expansion tank was clogged, causing the water to build enough pressure to escape trough radiator cap... anyways they're two totally different cars but seems to me you need a cooling system flush.
They sell a kit which includes a T fitting that goes in the hose flowing towards the heating core, and allows you to connect a garden hose to push water through the system with radiator cap off so all can circulate and clean up. Being careful (water pressure in houses is more than the system is designed to withstand, for instance a radiator cap can be 15 - 20 psi, depending on area, some homes have above 40 psi) is a great diy little project. Alternatively you can pay a mechanic shop to do it. After a flush, drain the radiator from bottom plug and refill with coolant always. Don't run your system with water and don't drive an overheating car, it will blow a gasket and that's when you kiss your car goodbye, repair is not only expensive but blown gasket might leave sequels on engine.
replace the thermostant again this time get a hotter temp thermostant and buy it from the dealer, the other thing is that these cars are known for the temp sensors being bad this would give you the false reading on the gauge but would not affect the heat, if its taaking a long time then i would replace the stant and this time or before replacing the stant i want you to flush out the heater core, remove the hoses from the heatercore and use a water hose to flush water through the heater core, a plugged core will not throw heat or will start to allow water to flow when it gets good and hot to flow through the retricted core due to rust and crud, try the flush first and then try a new temp sensor if the flush helps the heat, hope this is helpful good luck.
You may have to flush the system again. Did you use a commercial flush such as PrestoneSuper Flush? Plain water won't remove the rust and sludge. The Dex-cool antifreeze that GM recommends for their cars is bad about forming a gummy sludge in the cooling system. It clogs radiators and heater cores. I would suggest another flush with the Prestone product. Follow the directions closely for best results. One thing that will help is. after you drain the radiator, refill with clear water and let the engine run until the coolant is circulating good, then drain it again. Do this three or four times. This will ensure that all the antifreeze has been removed from the engine block. When you refill the radiator, use a green antifreeze that is compatible with aluminum radiators and aluminum engine parts. Do not use Dex-cool. Dex-cool can also cause the intake gaskets to fail. Make sure the new thermostat is at least a 195degree unit and that it is installed correctly. you would be surprised how many thermostats get installed upside down. After refilling the radiator, leave the radiator cap off and let the engine run until the coolant is flowing. Keep adding antifreeze each time the coolant is pulled down into the radiator. Use full strength antifreeze because the water that is retained in the block will dilute it. A 50/50 mixture won't protect below freezing.
you don't say what year caddy. but older models (especially the 4.1L) did have a problem with intake manifolg blockages and gasket leaks. if that sounds like it could be your problem try replacing the intake manifold gasket, and clean out the inside of the manifold while it's off either manually, or by having it put in an acid vat at a rebuild shop or napa center
Yes, I am sorry to say this could be a blown head gasket. It could also be a bad water pump. Lets hope that it is the pump. You can get a pump replace for under $200.00 as opposed to the head gasket which runs over a thousand. It really sounds like water pump problem because you are not getting heated water to you heater core, where This would also cause the non mixing of fluids. Take the radiator cap off and see if you get bubbles rising to the to cover. Also if you rev the engine up and water comes shooting out the radiator cover hole the you definetely have a head gasket problem. Be very careful not to burn yourself. I bet anything it is just a pump. Gaskets ususally only go bad if you drive the car while overheating. Lets get this solved for you. Send me your qustions and we will get you taken care of. Please leave me good feedback, it means a lot to me....