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Headlight insanity/RED dash ENTRANCE POSITION DO NOT DRIVE

Found lightbulbs for 109.00 each. How do I get them out and back in? will that red do not drive light go away-it just did for 3 mins. after playing with 1 lightbulb. Help???

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 67 Answers

SOURCE: 1993 Mercedes after a long drive, engine cuts off at red light

Check out the crankshaft position sensor

Posted on Jun 06, 2009

  • 1986 Answers

SOURCE: Audi A4 2001 reverse lightbulb does not turn

Check the reverse switch that's located on the side of the transmission as that may have failed. It'll have 3 wires coming out of it

Posted on Sep 15, 2009

j_del
  • 1586 Answers

SOURCE: trying to remove the lightbulb from a passat 2006

Just take off the back cover of the light housing, unplug the bulb, undo any retaining clips (VW often uses a swing-latch style metal retainer), and grab the base of the bulb. Twist it to unlock, and it should come right out.

Posted on Dec 06, 2009

  • 280 Answers

SOURCE: Yaris headlights not working, have replaced the

there is a fuse under the dashboard for the relay circuit, the high power fuse is under the bonnet it is a 20/30 amp fuse - a "fusible link" check the under bonnet fuseboxes for a blown link,

Posted on Jan 24, 2010

triptom
  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 2005 kia spectra - How to change the headlights out

I imagine that the 2005 Kia Spectra is very similar to our 2004 MY (mid year) Spectra. On the driver's side you first must remove the cover that extends forward from the battery. There are three plastic screws across the front and one screw on the left (as you face the engine compartment) attaching the cover to a bracket. Remove these screws and set the cover aside. The passenger side has no such cover to remove. For either headlight, there is a cup-like cover approximately 3 to 4 inches in diameter. Unscrew this cover (counterclockwise); I think you only need to turn the cover ~ 1/16 of a turn for it to come off. Set the cover aside. The connector is held in place by a spring-loaded clip that looks a bit like a bent paperclip. Press the end of the clip in and then away from the body of the connector. This will release the connector and the light bulb. Remove the old light bulb by pulling it straight out. Plug the new bulb in. In my experience, the hardest part of this simple task is putting the bulb back in and lining it up correctly. There are three tabs on the metal flange at the base of the bulb that must line up with slots in the housing. Pull the retaining clip out of the way and insert the bulb into the headlight cavity and align the tabs with the slots. Push the bulb in so that it is flush then push the retaining clip down and then toward the light bulb until it hooks under a hook on the bulb. If you've done this correctly, the retaining clip will be pressing the bulb firmly against the housing. Replace the cover by lining it up and turning it clockwise until it is tight. On the driver's side, line the cover up with the mating holes. Push the three plugs through the holes then screw the plastic screws in through the plugs the expand them until tight. Don't forget to replace the screw that attaches the cover to the bracket to the left of the battery.
I've made this sound a lot harder than it is. Sorry.

Posted on Dec 31, 2011

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Headlights on 1989 ford 150 Econoline van wiring diagram, lights don't work


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My tail lights are not working, and the light on my dash doesn't come on when the headlights are on.


this car has a tail light control relay that if it failed would cause the tail light and dash lights to fail. see http://caphector.com/atoyota/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/02toyrm/02toypdf/02rmsour/2002/02echorm/di/theft/tailligh.pdf
Also there is a second fuse in the engine bay that if it blows it will cut power to the fuse in the interior fuse panel for the tail light fuse .If you look at the circuit diagram it is labeled fl block ALT.

see link below for most likely location of FL block alt fuse
http://caphector.com/atoyota/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/02toyrm/02toypdf/02rmsour/2002/02echorm/be/hatsy/loca.pdf

See also relay location in link below
http://i.fixya.net/uploads/images/8237dd51-a3bb-4248-bfce-ef01d4b805d7.jpg
Having also read a few other forum suggestions on a yaris the fuse may be under a red cover on the red wires coming out of the battery. There are 2 60 amp fuses possibly under the cover.
These can be damaged when a car is jump started incorrectly I do not know if you have jump started your car but this is a possible cause.

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aaaa more info your new plug should be marked as to what to connect to , DONT drive your self insane do one wire at a time and with a test light im guessing this is a rv flat spaded plug as i said start with one thing at a time turn on just running lights not headlights running lights that will put power in on wire only and that you want to connect to your plug running lites next shut off lights ,turn on a signal light signals will be a blinking light only on one wire.

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Car was woring fine. Went out to drive it. Started up, but dash was totally blacked out. There was a red light by the menu buttons that was on, but not blinking. Car drove dine, but not dash lights, no...


my 04 pacifica did similiar thing. Dash was black and car drove and started fine but found a broken pin in electrical connector behind dash and repaired that and all worked after that

Jul 21, 2011 | 2005 Chrysler Pacifica

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What is blinking red light on top of dash board by wind shield and what is green light on rear view mirror for


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Feb 24, 2011 | 2003 Ford Explorer

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I bought some halo driving lights for my '03 GMC Sierra 1500, they came with a wiring harness, switch and everything needed for installation except for installation instructions. Help PLEASE!


Tools recommended for this job: wire stripper, wire crimper, volt meter, 4x quick wire connectors, 4x male crimp connectors, 4x female crimp connectors
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  2. Keep the pairs in order by their color, e.g. black, black (ground) and Red, Red (positive). Note: positive and ground wires might not always be black and red.
  3. Remove some of the plastic shielding at the end of the wires to expose enough copper wire, next twist the copper together to strengthen it.
  4. Shove the twisted copper into a crimp connector; crimp the location where wire and the connector end overlaps, wrap with electrical tape to secure it.
  5. Two extra wires in black and red will be helpful to make the halo/LED wire longer to easier installation. Remove shielding: show copper: use the connectors: connect the positive and ground from the headlights.
  6. Next step, turn the headlights inside the car to the [on] position.
  7. Take the volt meter and connect the negative to the negative on the battery (please use extreme precaution when doing so).
  8. The headlight harness usually will have [3] wires, generally red, black, green (headlights, ground, turn signal). Use the volt meter to test which wire will have power running through it (since the headlight is in the [on] position) which will be the headlight wire.
  9. Use the quick connector to connect the extra wires (red) to the power wire on the harness and black to the ground. This will split the current coming from the harness. Crimp the connectors and use electrical tape to secure it.
  10. Now connect the projector headlight halo wires and the harness from the car.
  11. No wires should be left over unconnected.
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