Question about 2003 Pontiac Montana

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Bleed brakes but no pedal

We have replaced pads,rotors, calipers, and master cylinder on a 2001 Pontiac Montana FWD we pre bled the master and bled both front and rear brakes but the pedal wont get stiff it pumps up but doesn't feel right then when we start the van the pedal goes to the floor

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  • Pontiac Master
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Good! You bled the master cyl. before installation! The proper order of bleeding the lines, is to start with the wheel the greatest distance from the master cylinder. Then work your way to the next greatest distance, and last, the closest wheel. Make sure all air is removed from the lines before you proceed to the next wheel, and frequently check the master cyl. level, because, as I'm sure you know, if you **** in air at the master, you have to start all over again. I'm assuming you don't have a power bleeder, so with a helper do this with car running (make sure it's on safety stands and not going to fall on you!) Pump pedal 3 times, no need to mash the pedal into the floor, just 3 pumps 1/2 way down, hold 3rd pump at half way down level while bleeder is opened, when flow is about to stop at bleeder, close bleeder and repeat til no evidence of any air. Let me know how it goes and if you need any help.

Posted on Apr 21, 2009

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Bleeding screw must be at the top of caliper or the air can't get out. Calipers may be on upsode down

Posted on Nov 18, 2013

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Bleed the brakes from the farthest one away from the master cylinder. Usually Right Rear first then left rear then right front then left front. Try that

Posted on Apr 25, 2009

  • Richard Sheaffer Nov 03, 2010

    Having same problem. Vehicle had leak on the left front caliper. Replaced both front calipers, and pads. Had no pedal after full system bleed. Removed vacuum line from booster and pedal was good while running. Replaced brake booster. Still having same problem. Have done a manual bleed from each wheel, bled from master, bled from ABS, gravity bled, and attempted an automated bleed. The pedal feels great until we start the car. No evidence of leaks, There is a good pedal and no leaks at the master, so the master isnt leaking from the cup seals. And the system seems to be fully sealed. Not seeing any air when bleeding. Went through 7-10 bottles of brake fluid while bleeding, and just cannot fix this problem. you have to pump the pedal twice to get enough pressure to stop. Vehicle is very unsafe and We simply cannot figure out what could be causing it. The only thing we havent tried is pressure bleeding the system, but we did try everything else we could think of. Any help would be much appreciated.

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1 Answer

We changed the pads, rotors, drums and shoes on our 2001 montana, after we were done the break pedal goes to the floor, we were told to change the master cylinder and did,, but it didnt fix the problem,...


After you change brakes you need to bleed air from the brake lines what you need to do is find the bleeder valve its usually rite beside where the brake line goes in the calipers and looks like a grease fitting get someone to pump the brake pedal 3 or 4 times and hold it while someone else loosens the bleeder valve to drain the air out keep the pedal mashed until you get the bleeder valve tightend back up . Do each wheel until fluid comes out check brake fluid while doing this so it doesnt run out. Hope this helps

Jun 03, 2011 | 2001 Pontiac Montana

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I replaced the front rotors, calipers and pads. Bled the system but still have no pedal.


If you bleed them correctly,you would have pedal.

You need a helper & the engine running

Did you bleed all 4 wheels?

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I replaced my caliper, rotors, and pads on my 1995 tahoe . I bled the brakes and still have no pedal. I also replaced master cylender. what next


you may need to bench bleed your master cylinder to keep the air from filling the lines and making bleeding more difficult

here is a link to a "how to"...good luck (I hate brakes)

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Having trouble bleeding brakes on 1997 olds bravada. bled all four still pedal goes to floor. any suggestions?


Are the rotors worn? Worn rotors and new pads will sometimes cause this. The pad sits across the ridges and no matter how much you bleed the system the pedal just wont stiffen up. (See diagram. A - New pads, B - Rotor, C - Ridge)
If you did not install new pads you may also want to check the master cylinder seals. First bleed the system at the pipes that connect to the master. If the rotors are ok, you've bled the master cylinder and the problem persists then replace the seals or the complete master cylinder.


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Pistons in both front calipers stay out, both calipers replaced


You may have a leak in the booster or master cylinder. You can put a pressure tester on the system to test for leaks. It does sound like you have an air leak.
You can try to bleed the master cylinder, then slave cylinder, then brake lines.

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bleed the brake again. if the pedal goes to the floor with little resistance, then the master cylinder is your problem.
the shim is to depress the noise when you applied the brake. you can skip that, if the brake works without it.

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the master cyl must be filled and bled before install.after installing new bled master cyl,bleed all calipers.once you are sure there is no air left in system then you will need a scan tool to perform a abs service bleed.if you do perform the abs service bleed with a scan tool the brake pedal will be soft and start to fade.

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