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How to wire up 350 chev engine in a toyota fj 40

Having ignition wiring trouble and not sure if i need a ballast resistor

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Hola mi nonbre es josue soy de republica dominicana tengo un fj40 motor 2f kiero montarle un motor chevi 350 con trasmicion automatica pero con la trasferencia toyota para el 4x4 como lo ago

Posted on Dec 26, 2009

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How to wire an ignition switch to starter solonoid on a 1977 Chevrolet van/ 350 cid?


Can't remember what year they changed to coils with internal ballast resistor, but circuit is the same for those except extra wire from starter to coil + is eliminated on those and resistor wire from switch to coil becomes just a normal wire. Hope this helps.
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Ignition ballast resistor is usually mounted on the firewall near the back of the engine. It's white, rectangular, and has a wire connector on each end. It's function is to limit primary coil current during engine running. The ballast is bypassed during starting so you get a higher spark voltage. If you remove the ballast, you will burn out your coil.

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Are you saying that the motor runs until you stop cranking it? or just that it truns over while the starter is engaged but doesn't fire at all?
If it's running while cranking but stalls immediately after you release the key and allow it to go into the "Run" position, then the ballast resistor of the ignition system is most likely bad. The idea is that on older cars with electronic ignition, the starter motor caused such a big voltage drop on the cars electrical system that the ignition coil wasn't provided a high enough voltage for proper spark to occur, so they wired them such that the ignition coil could handle the low voltage which was present during the cranking of the starter, but when you stopped cranking and the engine was running normally, suddenly without the voltage drop of the starter, the voltage would be to high and would damage the ignition circuit. Thus a 'ballast resistor' was added to the ignition circuit and it is only in line when the car is in the "run" position. This allows the ignition system the proper voltage to operate whether cranking or running, but sometimes the ballast resistors go bad, causing the engine to run while cranking but causing an open circuit in the ignition system when placed in the "run" position.
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I am restoring a 1984 BMW 323i model E30. I am replacing the Bosch main wiring loom with a Siemans wiring loom. I plan to use the original bosch engine wiring loom and connect it to the multi-plug of the...


your asking me something now ,havent seen one in years but the cables can be connected over with time and patience and a bit of solder is good as it doesnt corrode ,now the ballast resistor fitted with the siemans was a different type of circuit and as it was a bosch then wire it as the bosch was wired ,because the ballast resistor was used in conjuction with a 9v coil and when you cranked the engine it allowed full 12v voltage to the coil to give an increased spark under crank load ,never did work that well to be honest and the resistors often packed up so use it as the bosch system .On the siemans you had a wire from starter connection on ignition switch to coil and the ignition feed went through the resistor to the coil ,Simple enough but them resistors were a right pain in all honesty

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2 Answers

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If I remember correctly, there are two hot leads from the switch on those. One is a bypass for starting, the other has a ballast resistor in it. If you have no voltage at the coil with the key on, either the wire with the resistor has failed or the ignition switch is bad.You can use any wire to replace the ballast wire and install a Chrysler ballast (white ceramic block type) on the firewall before the coil.
If you do that, don't put the resistor where it can get wet though or it will fail. If you don't have a stock ignition system, this will still work except on MSD units that require full voltage.

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The ballast resistor only weekens the power to the contact points while the engine is starting after that the secondary wiring "is" a built in resistor. I suggest you use the ballast or you'll be changing a lot of point sets.Just out of curiousity, why would you want to convert back to an older and proven obsolete type system?

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If the Electrical system is grounding out, particularly the hot lead to the coil. then you will fry coils. Check your Positive leads at the fuse box for continuity to ground. 1st check the ignition wire i.e. red wire going to your coil. Disconnect the ignition wire from the coil or distributor (depending where your coil is located). If it has continuity to ground, then go to your fuse box and pull out all your fuses and test each terminal for continuity to ground until you find which circuit is grounding out and polluting the rest of the positive circuitry. If it is only the ignition hot wire then you know that is where the problem is. If it is coming into the fuse block from another positive source, isolate that source by not allowing it to come into contact with + current.

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Very small help:
> ,(& what is a “ballast” resistor? Is it different from a regular resistor?).

Ballast resistors are special; they have what is known as a 'positive temperature coefficient' meaning that they increase in resistance with temperature.
This provides a very hot spark to start, then a reduction in current as the resistor warms up.
This prevented points and coils from frying from unnecessarily high current.
Early electronic ignition systems still used them, I don't think any modern car has them now.

If you have a larger public library, it might be worth a look on line (if available) or a visit to search for a manual; have found some classics there.
If you find it there - copy it, then RETURN IT! :-)

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Is the rotor turning in the distributor? If so, most likely the problem is in the madnetic pickup in the distributor. If not, pull the distributor out and see if the gear on the shaft is broken. A good gear on the distributor and the distributor not turning means you need a timing chain!!!

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