Replaced water pump on 91 Bronco 5.0, 302 Eng. but a/c unit doesn't fit on it. The nipple or (bolt hole) nearest the bottom radiator port juts out too far, getting in the way. Also, there are 5-bolts. Three are heavy and thick and two are thinner with a nut screwed 1/3 the way down. One of the last described is about 2in.longer. I found a way to attach the a/c to the front of the eng. with the 3 heavy bolts and screwed the longer thinner bolt through the pump and into the front of the eng. But I still have one thin bolt left and it will not screw into any of the holes. I fear that if I use it like this something will be out of alignment.
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it means that all of the old gasket was not removed properly before the new pump and gasket was fitted
it could also mean that one of the bolts is in the wrong hole and is not pulling the pump housing tight
No!!!!...Yes!!! No, the sending unit is working right. Ideas? Yes, I think the problem is the water pump. Don't drive it overheated till you get a new water pump or have it inspected. You say it's a small leak where it bolts to block, but maybe it's the "weep hole" on bottom of pump leaking, meaning the internal seals on the pump have failed. If so, it won't be a small leak, it will leak all the time engine is running. A lot may be swept away by air, or by evaporating. Check it out. That's a likely cause of overheating.
You have to purchase or make a tool to hold the pully stationary as you unscrew the fan from the water pump shaft. I bought a strap of steel 1/8" thick and 1 1/2" wide and 24" long at the hardware store. I then drilled two holes in it close to one end, and close to one side of the strap. The hole diameter is just big enough to fit over the heads of the 10 mm bolts that hold the pulley in place. Note that the bolts are in a rectangular pattern. It is best to space your holes to fit two bolts that are the long side of the rectangle. Then I had to grind a half-moon shape into the side of the strap between the holes to allow for the shaft so the tool would get close enough for my little holes to fit over the bolt heads. If this is unclear, you should be able fine a picture of the tool on an automotive tool website.
Then I use a crescent wrench with extra narrow jaws to turn the nut on the fan clutch that screws onto the water pump shaft. This is a lot easier if you remove the air filter box so you can get to that nut easily.
Most important - that nut that holds the fan clutch on the water pump shaft is LEFT HANDED THREAD. Turn it clockwise to unscrew it.
You didn't mention the model of your car. Regardless of what model it is, if you have a mechanical fan, you need to remove it. You will need to buy or make a tool that is a flat strap of metal with holes drilled in it spaced to fit over the heads of the 10 mm bolts that hold the fan pulley on. The tool holds the fan pulley from turning while you loosen the fan. The fan unscrews with left handed threads.
The plastic shroud around the fan comes out together with the fan. On some cars, the water reservoir is attached such that it is easier to pull the whole radiator out with the shroud.
The water pump fits pretty snugly in its hole. There may be a threaded hole in the pump cover that is 'blind. That is, when you screw a bolt in the hole, it pushes against the engine block to pull the pump out of its hole.
While you are replacing the water pump, you will want to replace the thermostat as well as preventative maintenance.
That is about all I can tell you without knowing what model car you have.
When removing the pump unit with special tool (some auto-parts stores rent them), TURN CLOCKWISE TO LOOSEN the pump-unit, counter-clockwise to tighten. The Torq Specs for the pump-unit is: 73 Foot Pounds. There are stop tabs on the pump-unit that mate with the tab stoppers on the main water pump housing unit. I had to re-torq by visually viewing where the stop tabs where after the first torq, don't over-torq or you will bend the tab stoppers on the pump unit. ALSO...the water pump-unit front cover requires a new rubber gasket (you'll have to order it through GM or use RTV silicone under the old gasket, which has a grooved fitting inside the front cover). The Torq Specs for the front cover (5 bolts) and water neck cover (2 bolts) is: 89 Inch Pounds. Those small bolts tighten normal, clockwise.
DRAIN COOLING SYSTEM.REMOVE CAMSHAFT TIMING BELT.REMOVE AND DISCARD 7 BOLTS SECURING COOLANT PUMP TO CYLINDER BLOCK.RELEASE COOLANT PUMP FROM CYLINDER BLOCK AND REMOVE.REMOVE DISCARD O RING FROM COOLANT PUMP.BEFORE INSTALLING NEW WATER PUMP.CLEAN COOLANT PUMP AND MATING FACE OF CYLINDER BLOCK.LUBRICATE NEW O RING WITH RUBBER GREASE,AND FIT TO COOLANT PUMP.FIT COOLANT PUMP TO CYLINDER BLOCK .FIT NEW BOLTS TIGHTEN IN SEQUENCE TO 7 FT LBS. SEQUENCE BOLT 1 AT 11OCLOCK BOLT 2 AT 5 OCLOCK. BOLT 3 AT 1 -OCLOCK BOLT 4 AT 7 OCLOCK BOLT 5 AT 3 OCLOCK BOLT 6 AT 10- OCLOCK BOLT 7 AT 8 OCLOCK.
You may have to remove the radiator depending on the amount of room you have to work in, drain coolant, remove hose or hoses from pump, remove fan blade if it has one attached to the front of the pump, remove all the bolts holding the pump to the block and lightly pry the pump from the block as the sealant will be holding it on.
Clean the surface of the block where the waterpump seals and also the pump gasket surface if you are going to re use it, use sealant cement on both surfaces and fit the gasket onto the pump, put a couple of bolts through the bolt holes to hold the gasket in place while you fit the pump to the block, tighten all bolts and refit hoses etc.
fill the radiator with new coolant, start the car and check for leaks
hope this helps
3.0 Escapes DO NOT use a tensioner for the water pump belt. If you get a clear look at your water pump, you'll see the pump itself is bolted to a pump housing. The pump housing is bolt to the block using three bolts which differ from the actual water pump bolts. Remove the three bolts from the pump housing to relieve tension on the belt. The cooling system will remain sealed. Change the belt and reinstall the bolts. (The three bolts use washers)