Question about 1991 Isuzu Rodeo

1 Answer

V-6 1991 Rodeo clutch remains engaged after removing foot from clutch pedal. I have been told to bleed the hydraulic line several times but it has not remedied the problem. Fluid does not leak out of the transmission. I was told that the slate (spelling?) cylinder remains engaged........PLEASE HELP! Thank you, Edward Chavez. e-mail:

Posted by on

  • chaveze49 Apr 21, 2009

    I have checked all of those components and actually replaced them with a new kit. Can you tell me if I should replace the splicer and confirm what the function of it is? I only see 2 lines connected to it and don't understand its function. Thank you! Edward Chavez

  • Anonymous Apr 22, 2009

    I'm trying to replace the part that goes between the master & slave cylinders but cannot find it. I have been told that it is called the 'splicer'. Does it serve as a 'splitter' (to distribute the fluid)? This line remains under pressure after about the 3rd or 4th pump of the clutch pedal and never disengages unless I 'bleed' the system at this junction (splicer). How do I ask for this part, by name? Thank you! Edward



1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points


    An expert that got 20 achievements.


    An expert that got 10 achievements.


    An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Isuzu Master
  • 6,982 Answers

Ive never seen a slave cylinder get stuck. there is a lot of force against it from the clutch diaphram, but there is a first time for everything!! I have seen diaphrams on clutches go bad and "over-center" when depressed. watch the slave and see if its staying extended (unless yours is located on the throwout bearing and you can't see it) If it's on the outside of the bellhousing, you can easily change it if its bad. If not the transmission needs to be removed to get to it.

Posted on Apr 21, 2009

  • Richard Scordino Apr 21, 2009

    I'm not sure what you mean by a splicer (often terms are used in different places to describe the same item ie: driveshaft= propeller shaft, boot= trunk etc) If you replaced the slave cylinder then it's my belief that your problem is the clutch (pressure plate) or a binding throwout bearing.



1 Suggested Answer

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi there,
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.

Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.

Here's a link to this great service

Good luck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017


Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%


Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add



Related Questions:

1 Answer

I need to bleed the hydraulic clutch system

Your hydraulic clutch system is a wonderful smoothly operating method of engaging and disengaging the engine from the transmission. Most of the time. However, should you ever find the need to expel air from this hydraulic may in for a long tedious experience.

I recently had to replace the master cylinder of my hydraulic clutch system. This was easily done as it comprised only one fluid line..and two bolts. Once the new master cylinder was mounted however, I found that air had gotten into the line..and adamantly refused to leave.

I undertook all of the common methods of removing this air but to no avail. I tried bleeding the system from the slave cylinder. I tried opening and closing the bleeder valve at the slave cylinder while someone pumped the clutch pedal for me. I tried using a vacuum pump to pull fluid and air out of the system. Each and every effort failed.

Air in a hydraulic line is a for certain way to insure that the hydraulic function will NOT occur. Air is compressible. A fluid is not. So when you place you foot on a brake pedal, or a clutch pedal and apply pressure, the non-compressing nature of that fluid, allows that fluid to behave as if there was an actual physical link in action. As an example..if there was a steel bar attached to your brake pedal..that would activate the brakes when you stepped on the brake pedal...that bar would be an actual, physical, material link..from pedal to brake shoe. A hydraulic line is very similar. When you step on the pedal..there is a force applied to the the non compressing nature of the fluid..within that line...the force applied on that pedal, is instantly applied at the other end of that line...unless..there is air trapped within that line. The air will compress..stealing energy..and will not transmit the force applied.

I did a great deal of searching online trying to find a method of removing this air from my hydraulic clutch system and discovered some of what was causing the problem. The Bore of the piston inside the master cylinder is small...and the stroke or forward movement of that rather short. There just wasn't enough movement of fluid going on to force the air out of the system in a reasonable amount of time. But my search did bare fruit finally..I found a wonderful article on refilling a hydraulic clutch system..that eliminates air, takes only a very few minutes and is not at all expensive.

What you need is one of those oil cans that has a spout and a trigger that will squirt the oil for you. This trigger...should be of the type that requires your index and middle fingers to operate as opposed to a can that has a thumb trigger. You will also need a length of clear plastic tubing that will fit snugly over the end of the oil can's spout..and will also fit snugly over the end of the disconnected fluid line at the slave cylinder.

In's very easy. Remove the fluid line from the slave cylinder and allow the system to bleed out entirely. While that is going on, fill your oil can with fresh clean brake fluid. Attach the tubing to the spout..and once the system has bled out..attach the other end of the tubing to the fluid line. Start pumping...just regular timed pumps are needed. Not too fast. This fluid, coming in from the bottom..fills the system from the bottom..UP..and pushes any air right out through the master cylinder. Take a peek at the master cylinder every now and again. When you see it beginning to fill with fluid...go ahead and fill it completely with brake fluid. Slip under the vehicle, re-connect the fluid line, pop open the bleeder on the slave for fluid to come out...tighten the bleeder close again..and you are finished.

Oct 20, 2012 | 2005 Fiat Doblo 1.9

1 Answer

I have a 2001 holden rodeo turbo diesel and only just got the clutch and pressure plate replaced two days ago and now when you put your foot on the clutch it feels as though you are putting your foot on...

possibly air trapped in hydraulic clutch system causes pedal to go low and hard like brake pedal,
bleed from bleed nipple on firewall (bulkhead) under bonnet, left side of vehicle then under neath at slave cylinder.
when left for a while or turn vehicle off it comes good again due to air in line shifts position
these can be tricky to bleed also due to pedal doesnt come up when bleeding must pull up with foot or hand do it slowly and pump it for a while before opening bleeder nipple again.
hopefully you put the clutch fork in the right way again if you replaced the thrust bearing and the bearing itself depending on engine configuration.

Feb 03, 2011 | 2000 Isuzu Rodeo

1 Answer

Hello I have a 1992 ford escort that I bought new. over the years you had to really push hard on the clutch pedal to get the engine to crank espectlly when it is cold out side. well today its very cold...

  1. Check that the brake master cylinder is at least 3?4 full during the entire bleeding process.
  2. Remove the bleeder screw cap from the clutch slave cylinder and attach a hose to the bleeder screw. Place the other end of the hose into a container to catch the fluid.
  3. Have an assistant slowly pump the clutch pedal several times and then hold the clutch pedal down.
  4. Loosen the bleeder screw to release the fluid and air. Tighten the bleeder screw.
  5. Repeat the bleeding procedure until no more air bubbles are seen in the fluid.
  6. Tighten the bleeder screw to 52-78 inch lbs. (6-9 Nm).
  7. Top off the brake master cylinder to the full line.
  8. Check for proper clutch system operation. Fig. 1: Attach a hose to the bleeder screw and place the other end of the hose into a container to catch the fluid - 1991-96 model shown 90987g40.gif
prev.gif next.gif

Dec 18, 2010 | 1992 Ford Escort 4 Door

1 Answer

How do you bleed the hydraulic clutch on a 1988 944

you need to find the clutch slave cylinder ,make sure the clutch reservoir is full, get somebody to push the clutch pedal in & hold it in while you undo the bleed nipple of the slave cylinder to let any air out ,then tighten it up while the clutch pedal is still pushed down,then release the clutch pedal, keep doing this until only fluid is coming out & no air is in the line.....hope this helps.....cheers

Jul 21, 2010 | 1991 Porsche 944

1 Answer

The clutch pedal sticks down when trying to engage


May 11, 2010 | 1998 Ford Ranger SuperCab

1 Answer

2004 holdern rodeo v6 clutch went to the floor was working all good before

The problem could come from the clutch master cylinder or the slave cylinder. The cause could be external or internal.

First check the fluid level in the reservoir. The reservoir could be independent of the brake system or using the same.

If the level is too low, air may have entered in the line and the hydraulic compression is affected. So first, adjust the level in the reservoir using recommended oil. (normally brake oil is ok).

Check for any oil leak starting from the clutch pedal following hydraulic circuit up to the transmission.
Your vehicule should have two clutch cylinders: the master and the slave.
The master cylinder is operated by your clutch pedal, it's located under the dash, fixed to the firewall and connected to the hydraulic line on the other side of the firewall. Check for any leak on the carpet, under the carpet and near the hydraulic connection. Pumping the pedal making that verification could help to detect leak. Then follow the hydraulic line going to the slave cylinder attached to the transmission making a visual inspection for leaks.
If for any reason some air entered the circuit, the line could be purged from air bleeding the slave cyclinder as you do bleeding brake component.
If there is no air, no leak detected then it's probably an internal problem that you can't see. Remove the cap from the reservoir, depress the pedal. If the oil is moving in the reservoir then the master slave is probably bad otherwise I would suspect the slave.
I'm not an Isuzu technician.
Some other Gurus could complement or correct my saying.
Hope it will help

Dec 20, 2009 | 2004 Isuzu Rodeo

1 Answer

Bleeding the clutch

This would be simpler with 2 people. One would sit in the car and the other under it with his wrench on the bleed screw. Have the person inside pump on the clutch pedal several times and then hold it down. The other person then opens the bleed valve on the clutch, let the fluid come out while the person inside is continueing to hold the pedal down. Close off the bleed screw and repeat several times until all the air is gone from the system. If you dont have any leaks, you are good to go. Make sure you service the reservoir, and forget the mechanic.RC

Jan 05, 2009 | 1986 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

Clutch won't engage--cannot shift

hydraulic clutch needs servicing or needs bleeding like a brake system wont work with air in the lines neither will hydraulic clutch's. you shouldnt have to change the clutch just service the slave cylinder ,that should give you back some pedal to might want a mechanic to bleed it or have it replaced.

Jan 05, 2009 | 1994 Mercury Tracer

2 Answers


hi from uk could you please give a little more info ? what make/model car ? has this problem occured suddenly? has car been layed up off road some time prior to this unable to select gears ? this problem sounds very much like the clutch drive plate is either stuck to flywheel hence question above ? or it is sticking on primary/spigot shaft for some reason and failing to disengage drive to g/box? how does clutch pedal feel ? you might try selecting 2nd gear with clutch fully pressed and h/brake on then try starting engine if engine starts ?runs then put slight revs on and slip clutch a few times this may work if plate is sticking? if you come back with update may be able to advise further

Dec 24, 2008 | 1991 Audi 80

1 Answer

91 Honda Accord

When you bleed the system make sure to bleed in 2 points.
One is the slave cylinder, the other one is in the joint of the line (hydraulic line) when it passes from the chassis to the engine (right above the transmission). loosen the bolt just a little and press the clutch again (several times).
then you will be done bleeding the system correctly and your clutch will work again!

Oct 17, 2008 | 1991 Honda Accord

Not finding what you are looking for?
1991 Isuzu Rodeo Logo

197 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Isuzu Experts


Level 3 Expert

79865 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22326 Answers

Thomas Perkins
Thomas Perkins

Level 3 Expert

14411 Answers

Are you an Isuzu Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides