Sounds like the front right hub is locking up when brakes r applied

For Trackers (and Sidekicks) of this era (1989 to 1998) the front axle locking device is a locking hub on each front wheel. (There are no actuators until the model change in 1999.) Locking hubs come in two flavors, Manual and auto locking hubs. A look at the from wheel should tell you what you have. Manual hubs have a knob like lever with the word "lock" and "free." Auto hubs say "Auto-Locking" right on them. Both types of hubs require servicing periodicity. (Normally annually.) This means removing and disassembling. Then cleaning and light greasing before reassembling. There are some good videos on the web on how to service the manual hubs. Auto hubs are a little harder to ensure they are working properly, but some people like them. (Not me.)

Please note two things:
1. Due to differential action, BOTH hubs need to be locked for any power to be applied to the front wheels.
2. Trackers of this era are PART TIME 4x4, NOT all wheel drive. They have nothing providing for different wheel speeds front to back like a center differential. This means they should NOT be used on non-slippery surfaces like dry pavement. Beside causing handling and braking issues, it can destroy your transfercase driving on dry pavement in 4x4 due to what is called "driveline wind up".

PLEASE if you do not understand this, look it up... if you still do not understand, ask and do not use the 4x4 until you do.

Remove caliper, and tie it up off to the side being careful of brake line.
Remove brake rotor. Locate the hole in the face of the mating flange the rotor bottoms out against when wheels are bolted on. Through that hole you will see 4 bolts that attach the hub assembly to the steering knuckle- remove these 4 bolts then anything still holding the hub in place will be rust and dirt. Remove hub, check the knuckle for cracks or damge and replace if there is any. Otherwise if it checks okay, cleann the surface where the hub bolts to, and install hub. For safety, apply some medium duty thread locking compound to those 4 mounting bolts, and install to 63 pounds/feet of torque. Or 84.4 Newton Meters.



Install the pads and install brake caliper and tighten to 38 pounds feet of torque or 51.5 Newron meters.

Reinstall wheel and tire assembly.

Sounds like the right front brake caliper is locking up. Make sure they change the brake hose, when you have the caliper replaced. Both sides should be done at the same time, along with the brake hoses and pads. They will also have to check the rotors, due to the heat from the brake locking up, they warp and may not be reusable.

It could well be in need of new brake pads however this would be noticable more when you apply the brakes if the sound is in the rear its not the front brakes it could also be your wheel hub bearings are past there used by date its a serious problem and needs attension right away

The best way to check is to lift the corner of the vehicle clear f the ground and then with a trolley jack lift the lower wishbone to put pressure on the suspension spring. This removes any force on the ball joints and bearings associated with the wheel hub. Grab the wheel 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock and rock the wheel from side to side to side. If there is any slack or minor play you will feel it first and possible see and hear it. Now take the wheel in the 6 o'clock and noon positions and and again check for play. Now remove the wheel and apply the rocking motions again to the naked hub. You should be able to see any fault with the steering knuckle, the wishbone control arm ball joints and bushes along with any play in the hub bearing. The bearing should run smooth and you should neither feel or hear any roughness from the bearing. If there is a lot of play detected try this: Remove the locking pin on the main bearing nut and then tighten the nut until free rotation of the hub begins to become stiff. Now loosen the main nut by two flats only and refit the locking pin. Refit the wheel. When driving, a worn bearing is indicated by a persistent whining growl. On front wheels the noise often gets worse during a turn as the weight of the vehicle is transferred. While the wheel is off check the condition of the brake rotor ensuring there are no warps or cracks. A damaged rotor is indicated often by a thump thump sound front he wheel and this is accentuated and felt through the brake pedal when the brakes are applied

About an hour a side...This is the whole job and pictures....

The hub and wheel bearing unit is serviced as a complete assembly. Replacement of the front drive hub and bearing assembly can be done without having to remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle. However, if the hub/bearing assembly is frozen to the steering knuckle, removal of the steering knuckle is required.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
   
2. Remove the cotter pin from the end of the stub axle. Remove the nut lock and spring washer. With the brakes applied, loosen, but do NOT remove the axle nut and washer with the vehicle still on the ground or damage to the wheel bearing will result.
   
3. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the wheel.
   
4. Remove the front brake caliper assembly from the steering knuckle assembly and support from the strut assembly using a strong piece of wire.
   
1. Remove the front brake rotor from the hub/bearing assembly.
   
2. Remove the retaining nut and washer from the halfshaft stub axle.
   
3. Remove the ABS wheel speed sensor from the steering knuckle.
   
4. Remove the 4 hub and bearing assembly mounting bolts from behind the steering knuckle.
   
5. Remove the hub and bearing assembly from the steering knuckle.
   
5. To install:
   
   1. Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of the steering knuckle and the hub and bearing assembly of any foreign material or nicks so the surfaces are clean and smooth.
      
   2. Install the new hub and bearing assembly and tighten the mounting bolts in a crisscross pattern to 45 ft. lbs. (65 Nm). Be sure the hub and bearing assembly is seated squarely against the front steering knuckle.
      
   3. Install the disc brake rotor.
      
   4. Install the brake caliper assembly onto the steering knuckle.
      
   5. Install the axle washer and nut. Tighten but do not torque.
      
   6. Install the ABS wheel speed sensor.
      
   7. Install the wheel and lug nuts. Torque the lug nuts, in sequence, to 95 ft. lbs. (129 Nm).
      
   8. Lower the vehicle. Do NOT roll the vehicle until the axle nut has been properly torqued or damage to the front wheel bearings will result.
      
   9. With the vehicle's brakes applied, torque the axle nut to 180 ft. lbs. (244 Nm). Install the spring washer, nut lock and a new cotter pin. Wrap the cotter pin prongs tightly around the axle nut lock.
      
   10. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Check the wheel alignment.
       

The hub/bearing assembly is attached to the steering knuckle with four bolts



Removing a hub/bearing assembly




If the hub/bearing is "frozen" to the steering knuckle, separate the ball joint and lightly tap on the hub/bearing from behind




The hub/bearing assembly should free itself from the steering knuckle

About $60 a hub.

Not to question your ability, if you listen from the drivers seat while driving, just do yourself a favor, check the rear brakes, funny how sound travels and tricks the mind

I'd be checking the sensor (ABS) at that wheel, (right front) and adjusting rear brakes to proper clearance, as well as inspect them for proper operation with wheels off.

it sounds as though you are expierencing flase abs activation. this is common on gm (and ford) trucks. this is caused by rust getting underneath the front wheel speed sensors, betwen the sensor and hub mounting surface. the rust opushes the sensor away from the tone ring making it lose sight of it, forcing the abs to engage as it suspect the wheel is locked up @ 0 mph. the vehicle may have a tendancy to have a very slight pull to the opposite side that is affected. meaning if i break @ a slow speed, hands off wheel (be careful :) ) it may pull to the left @ first slightly, this would indicate the right front sensor has lost its signal...if you do not have a pull..you can start by carefuly removing the front sensors, cleaning the rust off the mounting surface, then reinstalling with somedielectric greese on the sensor oring and mounting surface...be carefule pulling sensor out of hub as it is plastic and may break, try turning left to right veryslightly, working back and forth and it will come out..if it break, you will have to pick out the pieces, not dropping any pieces into the hub asm, if this happens, the hub is junk and very expensive to replace...be careful, good luck

ps 4 thumbs up would help me the same as i help you...thanks!

Your right to a point, they aren't engaging properly. Same answer, add worn pads too.