Question about 1998 Dodge Ram 3500 2WD

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Water in fuel, ran fresh deisel and conditioner through system, still getting white/grey exaust smoke.Please help.(cummins 3500dodge 6 cylinder)

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  • yadayada
    yadayada May 11, 2010

    drain all the fuel and flush the lines before u ruin the injector pump.

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  • 52 Answers

Possible cracked head thou rare. Isolate the return line and pressureise coolant up to the cap rateing and look at any discharge from the return line. You have a unique issue... is the filler neck completely sealed. Do you have any enemies with access to your vehicle? Just kidding... good luck...

Posted on Aug 29, 2009

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IF THE SMOKE SMELLS SWEET LIKE COOLANT THEN YOU BURNING COOLANT.


Posted on Jul 09, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 1996 5.9 cummins

if you want more smoke and power turn up your pump and adjust your governor springs. if you just looking for lots of smoke, plug off your return line

Posted on Nov 13, 2008

STEVIE_N_24
  • 147 Answers

SOURCE: Reinstallation of cylinder head on 4d56 deisel engine

Suspect cam timing or injection pump timing is a tooth off causing problem.

Posted on Mar 31, 2009

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SOURCE: 2005 chevy 6.6L turbo deisel losing power and blowing black smoke

pump may need recalibrating or a kit through it
or you may have a cracked turbo

Posted on Jul 20, 2009

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SOURCE: i have an 1974 chevy pu, 350 sbmall block

That engine is a good solid workhorse that isn't difficult to set up. First, set the ignition timing to 8degrees btc (advanced) they like it there. Set with vacuum advance disconnected and plugged. Next, while it's running, look down into the carb and make sure you dont see any fuel dripping into the venturis. If it is, you need to lower the float level a bit. Put a vacuum gauge on ti attached to any mainfold port. Then adjust the idle screws in the carb base till you have the highest possible vacuum reading. Work with one screw, then the other, then go back to the first one, then the second to get it fine tuned. If the carb has an electric throttle solenoid, do this with the solenoid disconnected and the idle speed turned down at the linkage to the lowest point that it will continue to run. Note: if the vacuum gauge bounces or reads substantially lower than 18 inches, you may have an internal engine problem...bounce is valves, very low may be timing chain. Make sure that you are getting 12v to the coil and that the cap, rotor and wires are in good condition and that the fly-weights under the rotor are free and not rusted in place. When finished, re-connect the solenoid and the advance hose and bring engine idle up to about 800-825rpm using idle screw on linkage If solenoid is always on, set linkage screw at 800, solenoid a bit higher
I suggest that before you begin any testing, you do a compression test. The numbers are not as important as that ther are close to each other...you should not have one thats at 80 and the remainder at 100 for example. Usually you should have at least 150 in each cyl. Look carefully at the spark plugs...they should be tan on the electrode porcelan, should have no residue of any kind and should be properly gapped. I'm sure I forgot something but doing what I said should make it run far better. Make sure firing order is correct...18436572, bost common to cross are 5 and 7. Any questions, just ask.

Posted on Aug 03, 2009

  • 52 Answers

SOURCE: how do you prime the fuel system when its ran out

If you have a 24v get to the injection pump and loosen both banjo bolts. Turn the ignition on and let the lift pump push fuel out of the banjo bolts. When satisfied that the air is replaced with fuel retighten. Beside the valve cover is six injection lines. Find one and "CRACK" a line. You should have no problem finding fuel after loosening a line. Do not use strater fluid. Good luck...

Posted on Aug 29, 2009

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