Question about Honda Accord

3 Answers

I have a 1996 honda accord ex 4 cyl engine. I was on my way home one day and when I tried to accelearate at a red light - the call stalled. It started about 40 - 50 min later. However, it has never started again since that time. It turns over well, but does not start. I have changed the plugs, dist cap/rotor, and wires to no avail....

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  • wayjones666 Apr 20, 2009

    I'd like more specificity with respect to my problem/posting.

  • wayjones666 Apr 20, 2009

    Yes - I do here the humming sound - in fact, I here the sound without the need to walk to the back of my car....

  • wayjones666 Apr 20, 2009

    it is a dark color, but I did not observe anything unusual per se - may need an oil change. I do appear to be low a quart or so...

  • wayjones666 Apr 20, 2009

    Actually, the tank does have a quarter full of gas. I may have exaggerated the sound level of the fuel pump. Just now I did need to listen closely for the hum - it was there for a few seconds, then it appears to stop in my opinion. It repeats this sequence every time I start the engine...



    My initial sound level observation may have been from an earlier experience today......

  • wayjones666 Apr 20, 2009

    Will do - thanks also for looking it up.



    By the way, the humming sound is not the natural, if you will, sound for the fuel pump to make when you turn the ignition key to on?

  • wayjones666 Apr 20, 2009

    Any opinion that the fuel pump relay can be under the dash on the driver side?

  • wayjones666 Apr 21, 2009

    Actually, remember that this car only turns over - it does not start.....

  • wayjones666 Apr 21, 2009

    No problem. By the way, what leads you to believe that the problem may not be with the ignition system opposed to the fuel system....?

  • wayjones666 Apr 21, 2009

    No, I have not confirmed spark.

  • wayjones666 Apr 21, 2009

    My fuse panel is not labeled - have you verified where the main relay is located?



    Also, if there is no spark, what parts are among the likely suspects (I have replaced wires, plugs, cap, and rotor)

  • wayjones666 Apr 21, 2009

    I purchase one of those metal 'plugs' for testing spark and tried several spark wires while cranking. Does not appear to be a spark of any kind....

  • wayjones666 Apr 21, 2009

    Unfortunately, as I indicated earlier, this car does not start.



    And, I did not even get a spark from the test. What parts might this suggest?



  • wayjones666 Apr 22, 2009

    Thanks!

  • wayjones666 Apr 22, 2009

    One final question, does this car have an electronic or ignition module that would be suspect if I am not getting a spark?

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Well it can only be of 2 things.It was running fine until this problem started. Its either not getting gas or its not getting spark. You said you ck. the spark. This tricky you may not get it right and still have spark. I do not recommend holding the wire while turning over the eng. All tho its happened to me a few time. I have had 3 little Honda's and 2 of them had a similar problem. The fuel filter was clogged so tight that the fuel pump couldn't push the gas up to the carb. It all so caused the fuel pump to sound louder. Their is a canister on the fire wall with pipes coming out of it top and bottom. It may be in a different place now. Just buy one and ask the Parts store people to locate it for you. An easy fix. All so ck. the fuel pump with the feed gas line off. run the pump & gas should be squirting out. if not. it may need a primming. Have some thing to catch the gas as it runs out.
Now if the pump won;t send the gas , try primming it, by putting the hose from a shop vac over the gas line. Creat a good tigh seal . **** the gas up the pipe while the pump is running. This wont heart the shop vac. just clean an air it out well . I personaly saved $225.00 for a new pump. I hope you can save you a bunch. Good luck DFD

Posted on Apr 22, 2009

  • DanfordDan Cross
    DanfordDan Cross Apr 22, 2009

    If I can be of further service let me know. Im still hopeing you have spark, but if not there is the coil you could test out. DFD

  • DanfordDan Cross
    DanfordDan Cross Apr 22, 2009

    Yes it has one

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Turn on the key and go to the rear of the car.... can you hear a humming sound ?

Posted on Apr 20, 2009

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  • Roberta Smith
    Roberta Smith Apr 20, 2009

    next thing is to check the oil... what colour is it ?

  • Roberta Smith
    Roberta Smith Apr 20, 2009

    i realize this is the mearly obvious but i have to ask as the fuel pump is loud.... do you know how much fuel is in the tank ?

  • Roberta Smith
    Roberta Smith Apr 20, 2009

    ok it sounds either like your fuel pump has failed or you need to replace the relay for the fuel pump... i'll look up where the relay is in case the fuse panel is not labeled... there should be a fuse panel next to the battery in the engine compartment. if you remove the lid it may be labeled on the inside bottom of the lid... if so locate your fuel pump relay and replace it... and try it out.

  • Roberta Smith
    Roberta Smith Apr 21, 2009

    it does sound like the fuel pump is failing.... just curious ... if you start it and hold your foot down abit on the gas pedal... will it keep running ?

  • Roberta Smith
    Roberta Smith Apr 21, 2009

    my apologies... something you said earlier made me think it was running for a couple seconds then dying.

  • Roberta Smith
    Roberta Smith Apr 21, 2009

    mostly because you have changed all the parts of the ignition.... have you checked for a spark ?

  • Roberta Smith
    Roberta Smith Apr 21, 2009

    check for spark then.... and see if it has any

  • Roberta Smith
    Roberta Smith Apr 21, 2009

    cannot recall if that has a single coil or a coil pack but test to see if it has a spark first

  • Roberta Smith
    Roberta Smith Apr 21, 2009

    after the 40 or 50 minutes later when it restarted... how long did it stay running.... and how did it run ?

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Try this

1. Check for poor mating of one connector to another. Terminals may not be fully seated. Check for improperly formed or damaged terminals. Check wire to terminal connections.

2. Check for poor connection from ignition coil to ground or arcing at the spark plug wires or plugs.

3. Check for intermittent short to ground on data or UART circuits of Data Link Connector (DLC) or in Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) circuit.

4. Check for poor connections in PCM ground terminals.

5. Check for loss of diagnosis trouble code memory. To check code memory on fuel injected models, disconnects MAP or TP sensor and run engine at idle until MIL comes on MAP or TP sensor code should be stored and retained in memory when ignition is turned off. If code is not stored, PCM is faulty.

6. Check for electrical system interference caused by a defective relay, or a PCM-driven solenoid or switch may cause sharp electrical surge. This type of problem will normally occur when faulty components is operated.

7. Check for aftermarket parts which may not have been produced to manufacturer's specifications.

8. Check for any open diodes in A/C engine wiring.

9. Check for improper installation of electrical accessories such as auxillary lights or 2-way radios.

10. Ensure ignition control wires are kept away from spark plug wires, distributor wires, distributor housing, ignition coil and generator. Ensure ground wire from PCM to distributor or ignition control module is connected to a good ground.


Hope this helps resolving the issue of your car...




Posted on Apr 20, 2009

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