With the light on, the power train computer (ecu) should have trouble codes for the abs to indicate the problem.
I would take it back to the shop. They may have got a wheel sensor misadjusted or not connected. They did the brake job, they are responsible to do the job right before letting it go out the door. I hope they do take responsibility, let us know. If they refuse or want more money, that is one shop to avoid.
SOURCE: 2000 Blazer ABS engaging
what about the drivers side? and does it have a removeable wheel speed sensor from the wheel hub? if so, maybe broken exciter ring on axle shaft on one of the front axles
SOURCE: Replacing Ball Joints on 2001 Mazda B2500 (upper and lower)
its easier to get the whole control arm and the lower one has to be pressed in. it is not and easy job if you dont have the right tools checkout rockauto.com to look at the replacement parts and to get a price on them
The bearings on the wheels has to be installed one way only, the rotor ring is built into the bearing and if installed the wrong way round the sensor cant pick up the wheel speed causing the ligt to be switched on in the cluster. The diagnostic equipment should pick this up as a fault once the car has been driven, it will see the sensor when you do the diagnostic if the car is standing still but once the car is moving and no signal is send from that wheel it would register a fault into the memory of the PCM that you would be able to retrieve later.
There is a way for you to test the sensor yourself by using a multimeter set on volts, you jack the vehicle up at that wheel, install a vehicle stand to support the vehicle to be safe, disconect the wheel speed sensor and probe the two wires into the sensor, spin the wheel by hand and a small amount of current will be produced meaning the the sensor is working and the wheel bearing is installed the correct way, you can also do a continuaty test on the sensor by switching the multimeter onto ohms, but be very carefull, if this sensor has three wires you cant do the continuaty test because of the integrated circuit in the sensor, the three wire sensors opperate on a voltage from 5Volt and it would be destroyed by the multimeter opperating on 9Volt.
If the continuaty test passes and the bearing is installed the correct way, the most comon fault would be a break in the wiring leading to the PCM
Hope this will be helpfull.
SOURCE: changing a wheel bearing, 2003 mazda 6
to change that, using a hydraulic press is highly recommended. if you are DIY experienced, this trick works as well:
take a pice of a stable metal pipe, 10-20 cm long. and in diameter just a tick smaller than gross bearing size. take a very heavy tool and use the pipe to beat out the old bearing. dont be shy, needs a lot of power.
do not use this method to insert the new bearing. use a pice of wood instead (must sit stable on the outer bearing ring!!), lubircate a bit and beat carfully and very straigt in fractions of a mm. this is the difficult part and here the bearing may brake if you are too rough.
Not really recommend, but working when used with brain and care.
SOURCE: ABS light & trak off light keep coming on.
It sounds like "False Antilock Mode" to me. Your Antilock Brake Control Module "thinks" that you have a wheel locking up. This is probably caused by a bad wheel sensor. You need to scan the module to find out which one.
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