Question about 1997 Mazda Millenia

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1997 Mazda Millenia, Changed Almost Everything, Still No Spark..

I replaced the following:
Distributor Cap
Rotor
Plugs
Plug Wires
Crankshaft Position Sensor
Oil Pressure Switch
Circuit Relay Fuse

And still no spark.. I haven't taken the Timing off, but when I try to crank it, the belt looks to be working fine.. I'm at a lost.. Any ideas??

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  • 1 more comment 
  • bishop35401 Apr 20, 2009

    Stupid question, but what's a PCM?? And where are the ignition coils located?? If both are explained in my manual I should be fine, but I left the manual at home.. THANKS for helping!! I really appreciate it..

  • bishop35401 Apr 24, 2009

    pcm is working.. The coils, as I was explained to, are in the individual plug wires, and I replaced all the wires with new ones.. Still no spark to it..

  • Donny Reynolds
    Donny Reynolds Oct 01, 2012

    a 97 does not have indivual coils ...the coil is in the distributor .

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  • Mazda Master
  • 14,036 Answers

Check the pcm .get it scan make sure your pcm is working.also check ignition coils.

Posted on Apr 20, 2009

  • Jonah Oneal Apr 20, 2009

    pcm is another name for car computer.power control module.

  • Jonah Oneal Apr 24, 2009

    check the coil fuses.

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1997 mazda 626 won't start.


Are the plugs wet with fuel?
Check for spark. No spark? it may be the ignition module.

Plugs dry and spark present? No fuel?Spray a little starting fluid and see if it will run on that.
Then check pump fuses and for fuel pump noise.

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I would check for a spark first, but you can pull of the distributor cap and check if the rotor is still turning. If it is not turning, you may have a broken timing chain. If it is turning and there is no spark, it is probably bad spark plug wires, spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor, camshaft position sensor, or crankshaft position sensor.

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Depending on which engine your car is equipped with; the following components could be at fault.

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If they haven't been replaced in the last 30K miles, I suggest you check and /or replace the the plugs and wires first.

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If your engine is equipped with crank or cam sensors have them tested.

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TAG OR NUMBER ALL SPARK PLUG WIRES ON THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP BEFORE REMOVING CAP. SO YOU CAN PUT PLUGS WIRES BACK IN THE ORIGINAL POSITION. WHEN ALL PLUGS WIRES ON DISTRIBUTOR CAP BEEN NUMBER.REMOVE ALL PLUG WIRES ON CAP.THEN REMOVE THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP.THEN MARK ROTOR POSITION WITH SHARPIE MARKER THEN REMOVE THE ROTOR.

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I have a 1993 Geo Prizm LSI, that cranks, but will not start, and has no spark. The problem began as a cold engine hard starting problem, but after I replaced the distributor with a rebuild, it stopped...


Are you sure you got the dustributor in the right tooth? Check timing using procedure at link below. Or, maybe you got a bad rebuilt. Here are some tests to check it out:
1993
See Figures 6 and 7
  1. Check for spark at each spark plug with a spark tester. Check at least 2 plug wires.
  2. If spark is only detected at some plugs, check for a faulty distributor cap or rotor. Also check the spark plugs and plug wires. Replace, if necessary.
  3. Measure the resistance of the distributor connector C1 when cold, between terminals 3 and 6, using a digital voltmeter. If the camshaft position (CMP) sensor resistance is not between 185-275 ohms, replace the distributor housing.
  4. Measure the resistance of the distributor connector C1 when cold, between terminals 2 and 5, using a digital voltmeter. If the camshaft position (CMP) sensor resistance is not between 370-550 ohms, replace the distributor housing.
  5. Measure the resistance of the distributor connector C1 when hot, between terminals 3 and 6, using a digital voltmeter. If the camshaft position (CMP) sensor resistance is not between 240-325 ohms, replace the distributor housing.
  6. Measure the resistance of the distributor connector C1 when hot, between terminals 2 and 5, using a digital voltmeter. If the camshaft position (CMP) sensor resistance is not between 475-650 ohms, replace the distributor housing.
  7. Measure the air gap between the signal rotor and the camshaft position (CMP) sensor. If the air gap is not 0.008-0.016 inch (0.2-0.4 mm), replace the distributor housing.

Fig 6
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Fig 7
0900c15280047d21-lxsvs4ftyjtcqsaualeaxmu4-4-2.gif
Repair Guides Ignition Timing Checking And Adjustment AutoZone com

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i would start with the basics- did you make sure you followed the correct firing order when you installed your new plug wires? when you changed the cap/rotor did you notice any track marks inside the old cap? was the old rotor burnt/corroded? ive got a 97 ram and the cap is a b*tch to get to being buried in the back, could you have inadvertently moved the rotor off its timing mark? mis-aligned the crank sensor when installing your new cap? i would recheck how the cap was installed, just because you were able to position it proper and tightened down the screws doesnt mean that you didnt accidently pinch the wires on the crank sensor, or turned the rotor off its mark. also when pressing on the plug wires on the cap did you look for the "1" mark on the cap? this is your reference point for firing order. im not sure these are you problems, but rechecking your work to make sure something wasnt knocked off-kilter, or wrong plug wire placement would confirm the problem lies other than what was replaced. i hope this helps

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1 Answer

Tired of buying parts after parts


Hi

It sounds as though the distributor is giving up the ghost.

Can you hear any sparking inside the distributor? If so then the cap is tracked to earth and needs replacing. If you're not sure then remove the cap and look for any fine black lines which lead from the plug terminals to the base of the cap or to another terminal. These are conductive tracks and they drain away the current which creates the spark, so weakening the spark.

Is the rotor in good condition? If not then renew it.

Otherwise you need a new distributor.

Regards

Geordie

Jun 21, 2008 | 1995 Mazda Millenia

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