Question about 2000 GMC Sierra

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Dead Batterry. High current draw with ignition off.

I had to replace a 1 year old battery. I connected a current meter inline with the positive terminal on the new battery and the positive cable. The meter read 1.5 Amps for about 5 seconds and the dropped to .660 Amps. I measured it for at least a minute and then disconnected the leads. What could be drawing the .660 Amps?

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My 2002 GMS Sierra draws a simaliar amount of current.(.52 A). There a two items which draw current all the time on my truck. One is the OEM security system and I also have a wirless auto start unit. Both of these have a continouse draw on the battery. I've installed a high current marine battery switch to isloate this load if my truck will not be used for more than two weeks. Otherwise, the battery will be ecessivley drained. Regards, Jeff

Posted on May 03, 2009

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Parked my Truck the next morning it was dead , what could be draining my batteries


Could be anything in the truck. The best way to narrow this type of problem down is to due a parasitic draw test. This is done by disconnecting the ground from the battery. Then connect an amp probe inline between the battery and terminal. Watch the amperage on the meter, it should drop to 5 ma or less after 10 min. This is sleep mode. If this happens you either don't have a draw (drain) or you have a draw that is that can't be duplicated at this time. If your amp draw is still over 5 ma after ten min. Something is staying on. To find out what that might be. Without opening any doors or actuating any switches, start removing and replacing fuses while watching amp draw on the meter when you see the amp draw drop you have found the circuit that is draining the battery. Hope this helps.

Oct 02, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

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Having problems keeping a charge on the battery. Tested the battery came out good. Switched out the alternator and still will not hold a charge


Why would you install a new alternator?

Did you test the one in there?
What was wrong with it?

How much of an electrical current load,
do you have, when everything is asleep?

More than 40 milli-amp?

Pull all the fuses & put them back one at a time,
with an amp meter in series with either battery cable

Jun 11, 2011 | 1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

3 Answers

I keep puting a new battrie in and after it sits for a few days the thig is dead


It sounds like you've got something drawing the battery down when the truck is turned off. Make sure all of the lights in the car are turned off, and nothing is plugged into the cigar lighter (Even a phone charger not plugged into a phone can cause a small draw on the battery). If your door ajar light is staying on with all of the doors closed, the car may be leaving things powered up or lights on thinking the door is open.
If none of these are causing the problem, the next step is something called a parasitic draw test. This involves checking the "load" on the battery with everything turned off using something called an ammeter. With the ammeter hooked up inline with the battery, you can unplug fuses from the panel until the excessive draw goes away. Once you find out the circuit that is drawing the battery, you can start unplugging at different points down the harness to isolate your draw. The draw could be a slight short circuit in a wire or component, or a failed part staying on when it's not supposed to.

May 04, 2011 | 1992 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

1984 ford f250 inline 6 Have replaced battery, alternator, starter solenoid, starter, and voltage regulater, along with battery cables. Battery is being drained when the truck sits more than 15 hours....


If you don't have any idea what to check next, maybe now is the time to take the vehicle to an auto electric repair shop that specializes in tracing wires. You may have a short to ground somewhere, or an accessory, that is drawing current when the vehicle is off, to the point of making the battery go dead if sitting more than 15 hours.

One check that you could do yourself, with the proper tool, is to check the amps being drawn when the car is off. If the amps drawn is above .2 Amps, then it's too high of a draw. The symptoms you describe sound like it is more like 2 or 3 (or more) Amps being drawn on the battery.

Try to remove fuses to various accessories to see if that reduces the amp draw on the amp meter.
I would use an Amp meter that is inductive and has a claw that opens and surrounds the positive or negative battery cable and measures current without having to actually remove any cables from the battery, and connect in between the battery terminal and the battery cable.

Let's say, for instance, that it was an accessory like a radio that was drawing an inordinant amount of electrical current. Then, if you removed the radio fuse, the draw should go from 2 or 3 amps down to below 0.2 amps. So, that's what I would do to try to narrow down the possibilities.

Good luck on this repair.

Jan 21, 2011 | 1984 Ford F 250

2 Answers

My ford sports trac 2001 has been having problems starting. I have had to get a jump start a few times. It seems that when i don't drive it for 5 or 6 days, is when i get in and receive absolutely no...


Hi brentwalk,

Yes, it sounds as if something is shorting out, or drawing power while the vehicle is turned off. The easiest way to check this is by using an ammeter(voltmeter).

First check for a short: Disconnect the positive and negative cables from the battery. Place an Ohm-meter across the CABLES, and not the battery. If the reading is close to 0 Ohms, you have a bad short, and need to chase that down first.

If the reading is closer to 100-150 ohms, then you can check for Parasitic draw.

Your battery must have a reasonable charge for this test - it won't work if your battery is dead. Quick proof - if your dome light operates normally, you're fine. Battery should read something around 12v. With the alternator working, you might get as high as 14-15v.

Check to make sure ALL loads are turned off. Unplug anything you may have plugged into the cigarette lighter. Remove your keys from the ignition. Close all doors so the dome lights are off.

Disconnect the thick positive (Red) cable that goes down to the starter.

To start make sure your meter is set to the 10 amp DC range. Some meters have a special connector for the red probe when you are reading current. Make sure the meter end of the probe is in the right connector.

Connect the positive probe to the battery.

Connect the negative probe to the red cable that is still connected to the vehicle. Make sure this cable and your probe do not touch ground.

If there is a severe current draw (more than 10 amps) it will either pop a fuse in your meter or destroy it outright. That's why you need to test for a short, otherwise, your meter should now be reading the current drain on your battery.

If your vehicle has an alarm system or remote locks, the current draw may be around 2-3 amps for a few minutes after you last close the door. This is normal. If you're not sure, wait at least 20 minutes after you last open or close a door before you take a reading.

If everything is normal, you will read less than 35 milliamps, or .035 amps. If the current drain is higher than that, you need to find out what is draining your batteries: You can start by pulling fuses until the load goes away. If that doesn't reduce the draw, you need to look for a wire that is corroded or frayed.



Sky_Signal

Oct 30, 2010 | 2001 Ford Explorer Sport Trac

1 Answer

I have a slow battery drain on a 2006 Jeep Liberty. Pulling either fuse #34 from the dash fuse box or #7 under the hood (labeled JB Power) will eliminate the drain. According to the owner's manual #34...


Hi
Welcome
Jb power is Junction Block power
Here is a list of tests for this problom

IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from five to thirty-five milliamperes (0.005 to 0.035 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to thirty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment.
A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Junction Block (JB). This will reduce battery discharging.
Excessive IOD can be caused by:
  1. Electrical items left on.
  2. Inoperative or improperly adjusted switches.
  3. Inoperative or shorted electronic modules and components.
  4. An internally shorted generator.
  5. Intermittent shorts in the wiring.
If the IOD is over thirty-five milliamperes, the problem must be found and corrected before replacing a battery. In most cases, the battery can be charged and returned to service after the excessive IOD condition has been corrected.
1. Verify that all electrical accessories are off. Turn off all lamps, remove the ignition key, and close all doors. If the vehicle is equipped with an illuminated entry system or an electronically tuned radio, allow the electronic timer function of these systems to automatically shut off (time out). This may take up to three minutes. See the Electronic Module Ignition-Off Draw Table for more information.
ELECTRONIC MODULE IGNITION-OFF DRAW (IOD) TABLE Module Time Out?
(If Yes, Interval And Wake-Up Input)
IOD IOD After Time Out Radio No 1 to 3 milliamperes N/A Audio Power Amplifier No up to 1 milliampere N/A Central Timer Module (CTM) No 4.75 milliamperes (max.) N/A Powertrain Control Module (PCM) No 0.95 milliampere N/A ElectroMechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) No 0.44 milliampere N/A Combination Flasher No 0.08 milliampere N/A 2. Determine that the underhood lamp is operating properly, then disconnect the lamp wire harness connector or remove the lamp bulb. 3. Disconnect the battery negative cable. 4. Set an electronic digital multi-meter to its highest amperage scale. Connect the multi-meter between the disconnected battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. Make sure that the doors remain closed so that the illuminated entry system is not activated. The multi-meter amperage reading may remain high for up to three minutes, or may not give any reading at all while set in the highest amperage scale, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. The multi-meter leads must be securely clamped to the battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. If continuity between the battery negative terminal post and the negative cable terminal clamp is lost during any part of the IOD test, the electronic timer function will be activated and all of the tests will have to be repeated. 5. After about three minutes, the high-amperage IOD reading on the multi-meter should become very low or nonexistent, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. If the amperage reading remains high, remove and replace each fuse in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) , one at a time until the amperage reading becomes very low, or nonexistent. (Refer to 04 - Vehicle Quick Reference/Fuse Locations and Types - Specifications) for the appropriate wiring information for complete PDC and TIPM fuse, circuit breaker, and circuit identification. This will isolate each circuit and identify the circuit that is the source of the high-amperage IOD. If the amperage reading remains high after removing and replacing each fuse and circuit breaker, disconnect the wire harness from the generator. If the amperage reading now becomes very low or nonexistent, diagnose and repair the Charging System as necessary. After the high-amperage IOD has been corrected, switch the multi-meter to progressively lower amperage scales and, if necessary, repeat the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process to identify and correct all sources of excessive IOD. It is now safe to select the lowest milliampere scale of the multi-meter to check the low-amperage IOD.
CAUTION: Do not open any doors, or turn on any electrical accessories with the lowest milliampere scale selected, or the multi-meter may be damaged.

6. Observe the multi-meter reading. The low-amperage IOD should not exceed thirty-five milliamperes (0.035 ampere). If the current draw exceeds thirty-five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process in Step #5 . The multi-meter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect switch adjustment, or an inoperative component is the cause.

Jul 13, 2010 | 2006 Jeep Liberty

1 Answer

How to perform a battery draw test


To test battery drain you will need a amp meter that can read milliamps, if you do not have a inductive clamp you will need to remove the ground cable and put your meter inline this will monitor the current , however use caution as to not turn on the ignition or any doors as this high load will likely exceed the capicity of your meter and may damage it. The spec for current drain is 50ma but it is not uncommon to see up to 150-200 Keep in mind there are modules that may take up to 1/2 hour to go to sleep so you will need to monitor this for at least 1/2 hour to get a acurate result. Please rate this info for me THankyou RJ

May 29, 2010 | 2000 Ford Expedition

2 Answers

With the battery charged it will go dead sitting for 3 days. With the battery charged and the positive lead disconnected for 7 days the car will start fine when reconnected although there is some arcing...


theres a draw somewhere. these are sometimes hard to pinpoint.start by checking that all lights turn off,glovebox underhood light all lights,you will need a meter to meter the draw amps, then with key off doors closed look at the draw amount,.02 to.03 is allowable, start removing fuses and watch if amps drop,one fuse at atime, start with this to try and pin down a location of the draw.hope this helps.

Jan 04, 2010 | 2002 Oldsmobile Silhouette

2 Answers

Dead overnight battery short in instrument panel


You will need a amp meter to check this. 1. make sure the battery is fully charged 2. remove the negative cable from the battery 3. with the key out of the ignition and doors closed place one probe on the negative battery cable and the other probe on the negative post of the battery (the battery should be in the car with the positive cable attached to the positive battery post) 4. note the amount of amps your truck is drawing (3 is the norm, 5 or more is considered high) 5. if the reading is high remove one fuse at a time, check the amps again until you find which fuse is drawing the extra amps. 6. Start with the smaller fuses; if you suspect it is a problem with the instrument panel start there. This should help you pinpoint your problem area. Good luck

Aug 26, 2009 | 1998 Ford Explorer

2 Answers

MY 2005 DODGE DURANGO WILL NOT START UNLESS IT IS JUMPED. THE BATTERY POWER WAS TESTED AT ADVANCED AUTO. ACCORDING TO THE SALES REP, THE POWER WAS GOOD (450 OUT OF 600). WHAT COULD BE THE PROBLEM?


450 out of 600 what? sounds like you have somthing drawing power need an amp meter. remove key and leave window down. disconnect negitive battery cable and connect meter between the negitive cable and negitive termainal on the battery should see around 2.5 milliamp draw or less may take 1/2 hour to get to this point. also if this vechile is not driven often this could be the problem

Aug 23, 2009 | 2005 Dodge Durango

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