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Re: how to remove and check operation of, including...
1. Chock your wheels
2. Loosen the wheel nuts on the wheel that you're interested in (not too much - just crack the pressure)
3. Jack the wheel up, remove the wheel nuts and the wheel.
4. At this point you have sufficient room to inspect your brake pads and the cable connection.
5. If you require further access to change pads etc, you may remove the lower LOCK bolt - this will allow you to swing the caliper up and access the pads etc. Be careful not to press on the brake when you're carrying this step out - it might seem like a good idea to check if the piston moves freely, but you'll regret it when you pop the piston clear from the well and have to try to get it and the diaphragm back into place (almost impossible - save yourself the time, effort and headache and get a replacement from the local wreckers!)
6. If you need to replace the entire caliper - you just need to remove the remaining swing bolt - ensure you cover the brake fluid hose to prevent it from getting dirty when you are replacing the caliper. Do not touch the master cylinder or you will have to bleed the ENTIRE brake system rather than just the one line.
7. If you've disconnect the brake fluid line, you WILL also need to bleed the air from that line before you can drive again. Attach a clear piece of PVC tube to the little nipple on the caliper, loosen the nipple slightly to allow it to flow fluid and air through and drop the other end of the PVC into a container. Have an assistance pump the brakes slowly and thoroughly for you whilst you watch the tube for air. Once you are completely certain no more air bubbles are being squeezed out of the system. As you follow this procedure monitor the level of the brake fluid reservoir under the bonnet (LHS from memory) and top it up as required.
Incidentally, you can check the handbrake connection by simply jacking the car up and wriggling under for a look...
Hope this helps,
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Rear brake calipers are stuck with road dirt and need servicing. The calipers need to slide smoothly to operate. If you don't know what to do, get trained help because brakes are your life. While the cables are off during caliper overhaul, check them for free movement, replacement is not difficult just fiddly.
Apply service brake pedal three times with a force of approximately 175 lbs.
Fully apply and release parking brake three times. Full application may require two pedal strokes.
Raise and support vehicle, then mark relationship between wheel and axle flange.
Check parking brake pedal assembly for full release as follows:
Turn ignition switch to On position.
If ``Brake\'\' lamp is illuminated, operate manual brake release and pull downward on front parking brake cable to remove slack from pedal assembly.
Remove rear wheel and tire assemblies, then install two lug nuts to retain each rotor assembly.
If two parking brake levers on both calipers are not against lever stops on caliper housings, check for binding in rear cables and/or loosen cables at adjuster until both left and right levers are against their stops.
Tighten parking brake cable at adjuster until either the left or right lever begins to move off the stop, then loosen adjustment until lever moves back barely touching stop.
Operate parking brake several times to check adjustments. A firm pedal feel should be obtained by pumping pedal two full strokes and rear wheels should not rotate forward when parking brake is fully applied.
Install wheel and tire assemblies, aligning marks made in step 3.
Make sure your handbrake cable is adjusted properly. Adjust the rear brake shoes down to where the wheels turn freely with the linings only just touching the drums. Be sure to pump the pedal a few times after adjusting, then try again.
The front wheels (pads and calipers) will just about never bind, so concentrate on the rear wheels. If you do suspect the front wheels, release the bleeder valve for just a second and then try again.
Remove the center console covering the parking brake lever. Locate the parking brake lever between the drivers seat and the front passenger seat. Put the parking brake lever in the lowest position.
Turn the cable adjuster locknut to make the nut loose. Find the nut at the base of the parking brake lever.
Raise your GT rear wheels using a jack and support the rear wheels using jack stands. Remove both rear wheels using a tire iron to loosen and take off the lug nuts. Take off the tire from the rods by hand.
Get underneath the car and remove the rubber hole plugs from the brake rotors. Locate the rotors on the underneath inside of the wheel wells.
Take off the brake calipers with a screwdriver, but do not disconnect the brake fluid lines.
Use a pry bar to push up on the parking brake self adjuster wheel. Locate this next to the brake caliper and it looks like a star wheel. Rotate this wheel until the rotors will not turn.
Turn the adjuster wheel five notches in the opposite direction. Reinstall the calipers and wheels. Lower your GT using the jack and remove the jack stands from the rear wheels.
yoiu dont touch the cable ,you remove the rear disks and adjust the shoes which are inside the the brake disk,check the type of system first though as it may have the handbrake on the caliper and if this type adjusting the cable will not work anyway as it will not pass the annual mechanical inspection on handbrake efficiency if the knife edge lever points are worn inside the caliper
you have to fitt the caliper realy tight to get a good hand brake..remove the caliper..With pads in place. Press the brake to push out the piston.Only a little.Then replace the caliper with it realy tight onto pads.Then work the handbrake up and down a few times then you should be ok.Dont worrie about the brake being a bit tight.Just take it for a short run then.It will losen up.The handbrake is self adjusting.
The handbrake adjuster is under the centre console behind the lever. If its coming too high, check that the levers at the rear brake calipers are free and moving back to their stop position - they are prone to seizing up on older or little used cars. They can usually be freed off with a bit of lube and working the lever back and forwards. If that dosn't work, unfortunately you'll need new calipers. Do not adjust the handbrake cable unless the caliper levers are at their stops as this seriously reduces handbrake efficiency!
hi to get the pads in you did screw the calipers pistons all the way back and you should have backed the hand brake cable off as well then adjusted the cable afterwards problem with self adjusting calipers is you can adjust the handbrake cable and the brakes are ok until driven then they can bind so try backing the adjustment off on the handbrake [should really change both calipers as a pair to keep the axles brake balance but this is not anything to do with the brakes binding] best of luck paul