Question about 1993 Acura Legend

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Clearance to remove 93 Acura Legend starter

Dropped exhaust pipe
Unbolted starter
Can't remove from car due to clearance

Do I need to remove driver side CV axle just to get the starter out?
(what a pain the acura starter replacement is)

Do you need any special puller or a slide hammer to remove the axle?
Does it simply slide into the transaxle being only secured on the outboard (wheel) end? Have not removed one before. How long would it take to remove?

Thanks for the help!

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You can either remove driver's side halfshaft or battery tray and alternator to remove the starter. i chose the halfshaft, since it gave a little more room to unbolt the starter. no need to drain transaxle when removing driver's side halfshaft. unbolt balljoint and tierod end from knuckle. i also removed the pinch bold that attaches the strut to the knuckle to allow more movement to remove the axle. axle nut is 36mm. use a large screwdriver or small prybar to gently pry the halfshaft from the transaxle, be careful not to damage the seal. upper bolt on the starter is really tough to get access to...

Posted on Feb 05, 2010


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Remove starter on a 1995 aerostar van

  • If your testing indicates that the starter must be removed, the first step is to disconnect the negative cable at the battery.
  • It may be necessary to place the vehicle on a lift to gain access to the starter. Before lifting the vehicle, disconnect all wires, fasteners, and so on that can be reached from under the hood.
  • Disconnect the wires leading to the solenoid terminals.
  • To avoid confusion when reinstalling the starter, it is wise to mark the wires so they can be reinstalled on their correct terminals.
  • On some vehicles you may need to disconnect the exhaust system to be able to remove the starter.
  • Loosen the starter mounting bolts and remove all but one.
  • Support the starter while removing the remaining bolt.
  • Then pull the starter out and away from the flywheel.
  • Once the starter is free, remove the last bolt and the starter.
  • Once the starter is out, inspect the starter drive pinion gear and the flywheel ring gear.
f17-26.gif Starter drive and flywheel ring gear wear patterns. Courtesy of Ford Motor Company.
  • When the teeth of the starter drive are abnormally worn, make sure you inspect the entire circumference of the flywheel.
  • If the starter drive or the flywheel ring gear show signs of wear or damage, they must be replaced.
  • Reverse the procedure to install the starter.
  • Make sure all electrical connections are tight.
  • If you are installing a new or remanufactured starter, sand away the paint at the mounting point before installing it. Also, make sure you have a good hold on the starter while installing it.
  • Many General Motors' starters use shims between the starter and the mounting pad.
f17-27.gif Shimming the starter to obtain proper pinion-to-ring gear clearance. Courtesy of General Motors Corporation - Service Operation.
  • To check this clearance, install the starter and insert a flat blade screwdriver into the access slot on the side of the drive housing. Pry the drive pinion gear into the engaged position.
  • Use a wire feeler gauge or a piece of 0.020-inch (0.5080-mm) diameter wire to check the clearance between the gears.
f17-28.gif Checking the clearance between the pinion gear and the ring gear.
  • If the clearance between the two gears is incorrect, shims will need to be added or subtracted to bring the clearance within specs.
  • If the clearance is excessive, the starter will produce a high-pitched whine while it is cranking the engine.
  • If the clearance is too small, the starter will make a high-pitched whine after the engine starts and the ignition switch is returned to the RUN position.
  • Every starter should be bench tested after it is removed and before it is installed. to conduct a free speed or load test on a starter, see the free speed test.

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I am having a problem accessing my starter on a 1987 Bonneville with a 3800 engine.

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How to take a starter off of an 85 chevy caprice

Starter REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: If necessary disconnect the exhaust pipe(s) from the manifold(s) for access to the starter assembly 85313018.jpg Fig. 2: Once disconnected, the pipes should be suspended out of the way using wire or an old coat hanger 85313019.jpg Fig. 3: Although usually not necessary, the torque converter cover may be removed for additional access 85313020.jpg Fig. 4: Once the bolts are removed, the cover may be lowered from the transmission 85313021.jpg Fig. 5: The starter solenoid wiring should be tagged and disconnected 85313022.jpg Fig. 6: Various sized deep sockets will make disconnecting the wiring much easier 85313023.jpg Fig. 7: Loosen the start mounting bolts 85313024.jpg Fig. 8: Support the start and withdraw the bolts 85313025.jpg Fig. 9: Carefully tilt and lower the starter assembly from the vehicle 85313026.jpg Fig. 1: Check the gap between the starter pinion and flywheel 85313027.gif Fig. 2: Starter motor mounting — V6 (left) engine and diesel (right) engine 85313028.gif
Fig. 3: Starter motor mounting — inline six cylinder (top) and V8 engine with solenoid heat shield 85313029.gif
Starter noise during cranking and after the engine fires is often a result of too much or tool little distance between the starter pinion gear and the flywheel. A high pitched whine during cranking (before the engine fires) can be caused by the pinion and flywheel being too far apart. Likewise, a whine after the engine starts (as the key is released) is often a result of the pinion-flywheel relationship being too close. In both cases flywheel damage can occur. Shims are available in 0.015 in. sizes to properly adjust the starter on its mount. In order to check and adjust the shims, you will also need a flywheel turning tool, available at most auto parts stores or from any auto tool store or salesperson. If your car's starter emits the above noises, follow the shimming procedure below:
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise and support the vehicle safely using jackstands.
  3. Remove the torque converter cover on the bottom of the bell housing.
  4. Using the flywheel turning tool, turn the flywheel and examine the flywheel teeth. If damage is evident, the flywheel should be replaced.
  5. Insert a screwdriver into the small hole in the bottom of the starter, then move the starter pinion and clutch assembly so the pinion and flywheel teeth mesh. If necessary, rotate the flywheel so that a pinion tooth is directly in the center of the two flywheel teeth and on the centerline of the two gears, as shown in the accompanying illustration.
  6. Check the pinion-to-flywheel clearance by using a 0.020 in. wire gauge (a spark plug wire gauge may work here, or you can make your own). Make sure you center the pinion tooth between the flywheel teeth and the gauge — NOT in the corners, as you may get a false reading. If the clearance is under this minimum, shim the starter away from the flywheel by adding shim(s) one at a time to the starter mount. Check clearance after adding each shim.
  7. If the clearance is a good deal over 0.020 in. (in the vicinity of a 0.050 in. plug), shim the starter towards the flywheel. Broken or severely mangled flywheel teeth are also a good indicator that the clearance here is too great. Shimming the starter towards the flywheel is done by adding shims to the outboard starter mounting pad only. Check the clearance after each shim is added. A shim of 0.015 in. at this location will decrease the clearance about 0.010 in. Battery and Starter Specifications Chart
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Sep 01, 2010 | 1985 Chevrolet Caprice

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REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 2.0L SOHC Engine With Automatic Transaxle; 2.4L Engine
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the left strut tower. The ground cable is equipped with a insulator grommet which should be placed on the stud to prevent the negative battery cable from accidentally grounding.
  2. Remove the air cleaner resonator.
  3. Remove the 3 bolts attaching the Transmission Control Module (TCM). Do not disconnect the TCM wiring. Move the TCM to gain access to the upper starter mounting bolt.
  4. Remove the upper starter mounting bolt.
  5. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  6. Remove the positive battery cable nut and disconnect the cable from the starter.
  7. Disconnect the push-on solenoid connector.
  8. Remove the lower mounting bolt that attaches the starter to the transaxle.
  9. Remove the starter from the vehicle. Fig. 3: Starter motor wiring terminal connections — 2.0L SOHC engine with A/T; 2.4L engine 90902g12.gif
    To install:
  10. Install the starter onto the transaxle and the lower mounting bolt.
  11. Tighten the mounting bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). NOTE: Before reconnecting the wiring to the starter solenoid, be sure to clean the wiring of any dirt or corrosion.
  12. Reconnect the positive battery cable to the solenoid post and tighten the retaining nut to 90 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  13. Reconnect the push-on solenoid connector.
  14. Lower the vehicle.
  15. Reinstall the upper attaching bolt and torque to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
  16. Reinstall the TCM to its original location and install the mounting screws.
  17. Reinstall the air cleaner resonator.
  18. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
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  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Most vehicles will require the removal of the front exhaust pipe. Use penetrating oil on the fasteners to ease removal.
  3. Disconnect the starter motor electrical connections.
  4. Remove the starter motor mounting bolts and remove the starter. Fig. 4: Exploded view of the starter motor mounting — 2.5L engine 90902g10.gif
    To install:
  5. Clean both surfaces of the starter motor flange and the rear plate. This is important since the starter grounds through its case and the transaxle flange to which it attached. Some remanufactured starters may have paint on these areas which should be cleaned off before installation. Install the starter motor onto the transaxle and secure with the retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 20–25 ft. lbs. (26–33 Nm).
  6. Connect the electrical harness connectors to the starter.
  7. Connect the negative battery cable and check the starter for proper operation.
2.5L (VIN H) Engine
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the left strut tower. The ground cable is equipped with an insulator grommet which should be placed on the stud to prevent the negative battery cable from accidentally grounding.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Loosen, but do not remove, the exhaust pipe-to-manifold retaining nuts.
  4. Place a drain pan under the oil filter to prevent oil spillage, then remove the oil filter. For additional details, refer to Section 1. Fig. 5: Loosen the exhaust pipe-to-manifold retaining nuts to provide removal clearance for the starter 90902p01.jpg
    Fig. 6: Location of the positive battery cable nut (1) and the push-on solenoid connector (2) 90902p02.jpg
    Fig. 7: After removing the oil filter for access, unfasten the retaining nut and disconnect the positive battery cable 90902p03.jpg
    Fig. 8: Disengage the push-on starter solenoid connector 90902p04.jpg

  5. Remove the positive battery cable retaining nut and battery cable from the starter.
  6. Disconnect the push-on solenoid connector.
  7. Remove the 3 bolts that attach the starter unit to the transaxle.
  8. Pull the exhaust pipe down just enough to provide clearance for the starter motor. The exhaust pipe does not have to be separated from the pipe-to-manifold threaded studs.
  9. Remove the starter unit from the vehicle. Fig. 9: Remove the 3 starter motor-to-transaxle housing attaching bolts 90902p05.jpg
    Fig. 10: Pull the exhaust pipe down just enough to provide removal clearance for the starter 90902p06.jpg
    Fig. 11: Carefully remove the starter motor from the vehicle 90902p07.jpg
    To install:
  10. Install the starter unit onto the transaxle and install the 3 mounting bolts.
  11. Tighten the mounting bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). NOTE: Before reconnecting any wiring to the starter solenoid, clean the wire terminals of any dirt or corrosion.
  12. Reconnect the positive battery terminal and retaining nut to the starter solenoid post. Tighten the retaining nut to 90 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  13. Reconnect the push-on solenoid connector.
  14. Reinstall the oil filter.
  15. Lower the vehicle.
  16. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
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Aug 19, 2010 | 1997 Chrysler Sebring

1 Answer

Location of the starer on a 93 accura legend

Hello! The starter on a 1993 Legend is very well hidden. It is behind the left drive axle.

I'll give you the removal steps to give you a better idea.

Disconnect the wires from the starter motor solenoid...

Unbolt the bracket from the starter motor...

Remove the left drive axle (see chapter 8 in a Haynes repair manual)

Remove the forward section of the exhaust system (chapter 4)

Remove the starter mounting bolts and carefully maneuver the starter motor from under the vehicle.

As you can see this is a very difficult job.

Good luck.


Dec 12, 2009 | 1991 Acura Legend

1 Answer

My 93 acura legend wont start. Ticking sound??

That sounds like a dead battery. The ticking sound is the relay (a type of switch) which enables power to the starter motor when you turn the key. If the battery is weak, the relay will click, but there is not enough power to turn the starter motor.

Oct 07, 2009 | 1993 Acura Legend

1 Answer

Trying to remove the entire engine but having problem? any help

what is the problem? Clearance, something holding it,? Need to know info!

May 14, 2009 | 1991 Acura Legend

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