Ok i tried everything i checked the inirtia switch its ok.i checked fuel pump with a volt meter infinate resistance.so i pulled the tank and realised one of the connectors was dirty and cleaned.i then had no resistance to pump after .the relay has four wires going into it yellow pink red and brown.yellow is power.pink is power to pump .when i turn key on there is no power.but if i bypass relay and jump yellow and pink pump comes on.im nor sure if the relay is screwed.but i think so.not sure how to tell.anyway i wanted to hear the car run so i jumped the two.had great fuel pressure.but the car still doesent start.pulled fuel line off throttle body getting lots of gas there.but gas isnt going into carb.dump gas down carb with pop bottle and car starts fine..i was wondering if this has anything to do with the relay not being there.i am lost my friend thinkis it is the injectors.i dont think so because what are the odds of both going at the same time.i bought new fuel pump.not the prob.is there any way to check the injectors.maybe a fuse somewhere screwing me over.any suggestions will help.im leaning towrds the relay.cause the wires going to injectors are brown and red as well.and when i check with a volt meter at the relay it has less than 10 volts on the brown and red wires
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Re: fuel but no start
Sounds like the problem might be in the relay but before replacing that relay, check all fuses and especially any ecm fuses. Do you have a check engine light come on when you turn the key to the on position?I believe that on this vehicle there is a relay that is labeled "eec relay" this is the relay for the power to the ecm. eec stands for "electronic engine control" If this circuit is dead the fuel pump relay will not come on either, but worse than that the ecm stays dead and the injectors are not delivering the fuel to the engine even when you jump the fuel pump manually.
Check these items and make sure that the computer is getting power and I think you problem will be found.
There is a black wire with a connector like thing in it near the battery cable on the negative post make sure that this connection is good ,it is the ecm ground and the same symptoms will happen if it is not connected well.
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High resistance, partially broken wire, corrosion or poor connection, something in that circuit...somewhere. Take a voltage reading at the pump's fuse for a starting place- if you have a good 12 volts there, the loss is from that point in the wire to the pump connector. The switch, the junction block. Look at the pump connector- is the wire connection good- and back from it at the wire where it may have got pulled or yanked hard, breaking some wire strands, or got exposed to heat and burned a bit, look for things like that. I hope you don't have to pull some wiring harness apart. That's tedious, easier to rewire it after a point. Good luck.
The fuel pump relay has four pins. Two pins relate to low power switch circuit from the ECU and the other pins relate to the high current switched circuit which has a permanent power in and switched power out (to fuel pump). Check that the ground on the lower switch circuit pins is good and then check that when the ignition key is in the 'on' position that the low power switch pin has 12.6ish volts supplied to it. If there is no low power switching supply then the relay cannot function. If there is low power supply but no voltage switch on the output then the issue sounds like the relay itself. Pull the relay out and check that it clicks when 12v is dropped across the low circuit pins. Check the resistance across the high current output circuit pins when the low pins are given 12 volts. As 12 volts is applied across the low voltage pins the resistance across the high current output pins should drop to near zero as the internal contacts are closed. As the low side voltage is removed the high side pin resistance should once again register open circuit (infinite resistance). If the relay clicks but fails to output then either replace the relay or open it up and get a nail file and draw it between the contact pins to remove any corrosion.
ck eec and fuel pump relays they are bad about sticking they are located in the engine compartment in the power distribution box if they are ok ck for power at the inirtia switch located in the rt kick panel it should have power on both sides for about 3 seconds when the key is turned on if you have power on both sides it is probably a fuel pump
Hello! I need to know if the fuel pump relay is pulling...If you have a volt meter the easiest place to test is at the inertia switch...Also known as the fuel cut-off switch...If the switch needs to be reset there will be a light on the dash...The switch is located on the toe board to the right of the transmission hump, in the passenger foot well...Wire colors are...Dark Green/Yellow...Pink/Black...And Gray/Orange...Set meter to read +12 volts...Pull connector plug from switch...Place + probe of meter on the Dark green/Yellow...Place - probe to ground...With key in the on position you must read +12 volts on that wire...If not the fuel pump relay is not pulling...Send a comment and I'll take it from there...Guru..Saailer
Disconnect your battery. Switch your meter to ohms. Don't let the battery terminals touch the metal body. Put the negitive meter lead on the body and the positive meter lead on the one that is only 3 volts at pump. There should be no continuity. If there is, then there might be a short.
Next try putting one meter lead on the 7 volt main connector and the other on the 3 volt supply side. There should be little resistance. If resistance is high then you might have a break in the ciuciut.
Sorry you got the task of replacing a heater core. But never the less there is a fuel cut out /roll over switch located in the passenger kick panel and the harness runs up thru the dash. Two things could have happened.
1-the fuel cut out triped. Reset by pulling the passenger side kick panel and reset by pushing the red or yellow reset button. This should cure the problem.
2-the harness to the cutout switch was disconnected while working under the dash or pinched while the installing the blower assy. you can take a DVOM and check the resistance at the switch harness while disconnected from the switch. If the meter reads less than .003 you have a short. If not while disconnected check the switch by depressing the button and check across the terminals. The meter should have an audiable mode and listen for a beep. This means the switch is good. If no noise replace the switch.
4.5 volts , that's not right . Resistance in the circuit . before the relay ! Do voltage drop testing , not ohms . That should stay at vehicle (battery voltage ) It should go low on the other side of the circuit . Watch this video on voltage drop . Voltage is not being pulled low , it should not not drop voltage till it goes through the relay coil , on the ground side .You have high resistance in that green with white stripe wire .
this maybe caused by no fuel or faulty fuel pump, ignition coil, wire and plug crank position sensor. first check for spark by removing on spark plug wire and put a spark plug in the spark plug wire boot, donot touch the plug only the boot have someone crank the car over. if you see spark, that part of the ignition is good. if not, check the coil resistance if should 40 to 80 ohm with a volt meter pf not replace. if ok, but no spark check the igniton control madule make sure the coil and module are receiving current. if not check the fuse that feels them. if it is ok, check distributor cap and rotor. if rotor and cap are fine, check for fuel at either the fuel filter, the fuel return line or removing some spark plug and see if they are wet. if there is no fuel check the fuel pump and the fuse and relay that control the pump. if there is fuel with high pressure but there is no spark, check the crank sensor for signal with a volt meter while cranking the vehicle
if you believe some one put water or bad gas in your tank, then you will have to drain the tank. however, to know if you have water in your gas, first disconnect fuel return line or the line that goes in to the fuel pressure regulator put some fuel in a clear glass and let it sit for 15min.if you see white cloud at the bottom of the glass or water. drain the tank. if not check for spark by removing one spark plug wire and spark plug. place the spark plug in the spark plug wire boot and touch it on the metal part of the car. do not touch the spark plug itself only the booth with the plug in the boot. have some one crank the car over. if you see spark, the spark part is ok. but if no spark, check the coil with a volt meter it should be 3 to 8 ohm if not replace the coil. if ok, check for fuel by removing one spark plug or two and see if they are wet,if wet pump is ok. if not check the fuel pump relay and fuse. if fuse is blown replace. check relay with a volt meter. resistance of the relay should be between 40 to 80 ohm. not mega ohm,if mega ohm, replace. if not , listen to the fuel pump while some one is cranking the car. if you donot hear the pump, disconnect the pump electrical connector and applive 12 volt and ground to the pump by using a jumper or any wire and listen for pump sound. if not replace the pump. if there is sound coming from the pump, it is ok. check the fuel pressure regulator with a fuel pressure gauge or simply disconnect the vaccum from the regulator and try starting the car. if fuel pump is ok and spark is ok. then it maybe the computer or the crank position signal. also check the fuel filter it may be clog.
OK check your MAF sensor. It works offa 5 volt reference signal. Use a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) and not an analog meter.
If you go to www.alldatadiy.com you can purchase a repair manual subcription good for 1 yaer for less than $20.00. Well worth the money. It will have all the test procedures there as well as wirinf diagrams, component locations TSB's and everything you need to know.