Question about 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix
Problems started to escalate a few months ago, for the longest time my car had the chronic piston slap that this car has been known to be plagued with. but as with every other car the noise would tend to go away within the first few min. of soft driving. About two to three months ago the ticking became far more obvious at the start and continued to tick whenever the car was running. The very noticeable times when i can hear the tick is while it is in idle and and during the very first parts of acceleration. I have changed oil regularly and done all normal maintenance. Mind you this car only has 49,000 miles on it. Should not be having these sorts of problems yet. Two weeks ago my father and law and I decided to delve farther into the engine and see if the problem could be a bent push rod or anything else that we could see. after we got the valve cover off found that all push rods were in good straight order, mind you we took out one at a time and replace one at a time as to avoid confusion. noticed however that the rocker arms had a side to side movement in them that seemed to cause a slight ticking noise. I guess my first question would be is this a normal thing for the rocker arms to be making this noise, and second what else could this noise be? I am starting to get tired of chasing a phantom noise. Already changed oil with several difference viscosity's had cleaned the egr valve. added lucas to the oil. Would like a solution that doesn't involve going to a mechanic. Please help. Thank you
This a piston slap. GM recognised this problem years ago but instead of repairing 100,000 motors they call it "normal". If it goes away after warm up you should be ok to keep driving it.
Posted on Sep 26, 2009
SLIGHT side to side rocker arm movement is not abnomal. Tapping in a rocker arm will come from poor lubrication ( oit coming up through the push rods ) or worn end on rocker arm itself, or the lifter/.cam lobe , or push rod ends. OR maybe its something else unrelated to the rockeer ar. I would ( valve covers OFF ) , ( provide covering for oil splash ) At idle sold listen for tick, i would use a stethsoscope. Hope this helps
Posted on Apr 19, 2009
I have experiance this same issue on a 96 modle. The ticking eventually got worse and then the tapping became noticable enough for the knock sensor to pick it up and ****** the timing at low RPM causing poor performance. I have had the top off a couple of times hoping to find somthing wrong. I have even installed all new lifters but the tap has become a very loud knock that is only a little less after being warmed up. It sounds like valve train, but I am believing it is a sloppy piston. The noise goes away completely at 2000 RPM. I have great oil pressure. I wish I knew for sure but going deeper probably involves pulling the engine. I'm gonna drive it till it blows.
Posted on Mar 25, 2010
Try taking out all of the spark plugs and turning the engine over with the starter. Shouldn't hear piston slap at that rpm with no compression. If it still ticks, it may be a loose timing belt or failing tensioner. I had a tick that started only when cold and got worse & worse until the belt jumped. The cause was a tensioner that was partially plugged. This caused a loose belt which allows the valve springs to snap the valves shut after the cam passes the highest point.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 3.1L engine ticking noise
If you noticed any wear grooves on the rocker pivots, it could be that the rockers are worn. changer any that show obvious wear. Some movement of a rocker when not under tension is normal but should not be excessive. You can also check to see if any rockers have less travel than others by slowly turning engine by hand and measuring the travel on each (intakes may vary from exhaust, but should not vary from other similar ones) If any move far less than others it can be due to a collapsed or worn lifter, or worn cam lobe. Piston slap is a different issue and usually can be identified only by a good tech with lots of experience.
Posted on May 28, 2009
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Engines can make many different noises and people will describe them as knocks, pings, rattles or thumps. A true "knock" is caused by rod or main bearings hitting against the crankshaft. The general cause of that is either too much space between the bearing and crankshaft or insufficient oil pressure to maintain the distance between the bearing and crankshaft. Sometimes you can use a heavier grade oil so that the oil doesn't leak out of the bearing space so quickly. If you're currently using 5 W 15, go to a 10 W 30 or maybe even a 15 W 50. If you can't make the noise go away with that, either the bearings are too worn or it's a different problem. If the engine has less than a couple hundred thousand miles, the only reason for bearings to go bad would be inadequate maintenance.
Other problems that can result in noises like that are:
Piston slap. That's when the skirt (lower part) of the piston is slightly worn and is enough smaller than the cylinder that the skirt "pops" from one side to the other as the engine runs. It's more of an annoyance than a real problem, especially since piston slap typically goes away as the engine warms up a little. It typically takes just a few seconds to go away. If it's piston slap don't worry about it until the engine is rebuilt. Piston slap is quite common among many of the GM 350's, especially in engines that go short distances a lot or don't get adequate maintenance.
Fuel "pinging". That's when the fuel ignites too quickly and causes a sound like something rattling around inside the engine when you step on the accellerator. Use a fuel octane booster or change the engine timing.
Hydraulic lifter noises sounds more like a tapping sound and is usually caused by inconsistent oil changes
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