Question about 2000 Chevrolet S-10

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Bleeding the brakes

I'm trying to release the brake fluid spot that's on the near the tire so I can bleed my brakes but I can't get it to open on either side of the front tires!? Is there some secret I don't know or does anybody have any ideas on how to fix this problem?

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The bleeder screws are set? Well, a little heat sometimes if penetrating oil doesn't work. Sometimes, a small socket that rests on the bleeder can be tapped to "shock" the fitting to loosen it. Yes, it sucks if they break off.

Posted on Apr 20, 2009

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How to bleed the brakes on my 2002 Buick rendezvous cxl


If the standard bleeding procedures do not produce an acceptable pedal you will need a scantool that can activate the automated ABS bleed and a pressure bleeding system.
To bleed the brakes use the standard pattern of RR,LR,RF,LF

ABS Automated Bleed Procedure
Caution: Refer to Brake Fluid Irritant Caution in Service Precautions.
Notice: Refer to Brake Fluid Effects on Paint and Electrical Components Notice in Service Precautions.
Important: In most circumstances a base brake bleed is all that is required for most component replacements (such as wheel cylinders, calipers, brake tubes, and master cylinder) except for brake pressure modulator valve (BPMV) replacement.
The following automated ABS bleed procedure is required when one of the following occur:
Manual bleeding at the wheel cylinders does not achieve the desired pedal height or feel.
BPMV replacement
Extreme loss of brake fluid has occurred.
Air ingestion is suspected.
If none of the above conditions apply, use standard bleed procedures.
The auto bleed procedure is used on BOSH 5.3 equipped vehicles. This procedure uses a scan tool to cycle the system solenoid valves and run the pump in order to purge the air from the secondary circuits. These secondary circuits are normally closed off, and are only opened during system initialization at vehicle start up and during ABS operation. The automated bleed procedure opens these secondary circuits and allows any air trapped inside the BPMV to flow out toward the wheel cylinders or calipers where it can be purged out of the system.
Automated Bleed Procedure
Preliminary Inspection
Inspect the battery for full charge, repair the battery and charging system, as necessary.
Connect a scan tool to the data link connector (DLC) and select current and history DTCs. Repair any DTCs prior to performing the ABS bleed procedure.
Inspect for visual damage and leaks and repair, as needed.
Preliminary Setup
Raise and vehicle on a suitable support.
Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
Remove all 4 tires, if necessary.
Connect the pressure bleeding tool according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Turn the ignition switch to RUN position, engine off.
Connect a scan tool and establish communications with the ABS system.
Pressurize the bleeding tool to 206 - 241 kPa (30 - 35 psi) .
Performing the Automated Bleed Procedure
Notice: The Auto Bleed Procedure may be terminated at any time during the process by pressing the EXIT button. No further Scan Tool prompts pertaining to the Auto Bleed procedure will be given. After exiting the bleed procedure, relieve bleed pressure and disconnect bleed equipment per manufacturers instructions. Failure to properly relieve pressure may result in spilled brake fluid causing damage to components and painted surfaces.
With the pressure bleeding tool at 206 - 241 kPa (30 - 35 psi) , and all bleeder screws in closed position, select Automated Bleed Procedure on the scan tool and follow the instructions.
The first part of the automated bleed procedure will cycle the pump and front release valves for one minute. After the cycling has stopped the scan tool will enter a cool down mode and display a 3 minute timer. The auto bleed will not continue until this timer expired, and cannot be overridden.
During the next step, the scan tool will request the technician to open one of the bleeder screws. The scan tool will then cycle the respective release valve and pump motor for one minute.
The scan tool will repeat step 3 for the remaining bleeder screws.
With the bleeder tool still attached to the vehicle and maintaining 241 kPa (35 psi) , the scan tool will instruct the technician to independently open each bleeder screw for approximately 20 seconds. This should allow any remaining air to be purged from the brake lines.
When the automated bleed procedure is completed the scan tool will display the appropriate message.
Install all 4 tires, if necessary refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation.
Remove pressure from the pressure bleeding tool and then disconnect the tool from the vehicle.
Depress the brake pedal to gage pedal height and feel. Repeat steps 1-8 until the pedal is acceptable.
Remove the scan tool from the DLC connector.
Install.
Lower the vehicle.
Inspect the brake fluid level in master cylinder.
Road test the vehicle while making sure the brake pedal remains high and firm.
If the vehicle is equipped with a traction control system (TCS), the scan tool will cycle both the ABS and the TCS solenoid valves. This bleed procedure is the same as above.

Sep 15, 2016 | 2002 Buick Rendezvous

Tip

Brake bleeding procedure (step by step)


Required tools and supplies:

Box-end wrench suitable for your car's bleeder screws.
(An offset head design usually works best)
Extra brake fluid (about 1 pint if you are just bleeding)
(3 if you are completely replacing the fluid)
12-inch long section of clear plastic tubing (sized to fit snugly over your car's bleeder screws)
Disposable bottle for waste fluid.
Brake cleaner.
One assistant
(to pump the brake pedal).


1. Open the hood and check the level of the brake fluid reservoir.

2.Add fluid as necessary to ensure that the level is at the MAX marking of the reservoir.

3.Do not let the reservoir become empty at any time during the bleeding process.

4. Begin at the corner furthest from the driver and proceed in order toward the driver.
(Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.)

This will also allow the system to be bled in such a way as to minimize the amount of potential
cross-contamination between the new and old fluid.

5. Locate the bleeder screw at the rear of the caliper body (or drum brake wheel cylinder.) (Remove the rubber cap from the bleeder screw)
6. Place the box-end wrench over the bleeder screw. An offset wrench works best since it allows the most room for movement.
7. Place one end of the clear plastic hose over the nipple of the bleeder screw.
8. Place the other end of the hose into the disposable bottle.
9. Place the bottle for waste fluid on top of the caliper body or drum assembly.
(Hold the bottle with one hand and grasp the wrench with the other hand)

10. Instruct the assistant to "apply." The assistant should pump the brake pedal three times,
hold the pedal down firmly, and respond with "applied." Instruct the assistant not to release
the brakes until told to do so.

11. Loosen the bleeder screw with a brief ¼ turn to release fluid into the waste line.
The screw only needs to be open for one second or less. (The brake pedal will "fall" to the floor
as the bleeder screw is opened. Instruct the assistant in advance not to release the brakes
until instructed to do so.)

12. Close the bleeder screw by tightening it gently.
13. Instruct the assistant to "release" the brakes. Note: do NOT release the brake pedal while
the bleeder screw is open, as this will **** air back into the system!

14. The assistant should respond with "released."
15. Inspect the fluid within the waste line for air bubbles.
16. Continue the bleeding process until air bubbles are no longer present.
Be sure to check the brake fluid level in the reservoir after bleeding each wheel!
Add fluid as necessary to keep the level at the MAX marking. (Typically, one repeats
this process 5-10 times per wheel when doing a ‘standard' bleed.)

17. Move systematically toward the driver – right rear, left rear, right front, left front -
repeating the bleeding process at each corner. Be sure to keep a watchful eye on the brake
fluid reservior and Keep it full

18. When all four corners have been bled, spray with brake cleaner and wipe dry with a clean rag.
Try to avoid spraying the brake cleaner DIRECTLY on any parts made of rubber or plastic, as the cleaner
can make these parts brittle.

19. Test the brake pedal for a firm feel.
(Be sure to inspect the bleeder screws and other fittings for signs of leakage. Correct as necessary.)

20.Road Test.

on Aug 29, 2010 | Ford F-150 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Cant get breaks on my 2002 blazer ather break lane breaks


After you fix a brake line, you need to bleed the line. There is air in the line that needs to be bleed out of the line. Make sure the vehicle is not running, totally shut off. First - find which tire the brake line goes to that you just fixed. Two - then have someone in the vehicle pumping the brake three times, then on the third time, have them hold the brake to floor. Three - open the bleeder valve on the brake caliper of the tire that the brake line goes to.(Note - You need the tire off the vehicle to do this.) Four - once the the bleeder valve is opened, and all the brake fluid, and air comes out, close the bleeder valve and repeat the whole process several more time. Each time you bleed the brake line you are releasing the air in the line, and creating pressure with just fluid in the line. Usually three to four tries of bleeding the line will solve the air in the brake line problem and your brake pedal will become hard.

Mar 22, 2014 | 2002 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

I tried to bleed the brakes rf good lf no fluid comes out.replaced rf line working good,pulled line from master cyl. and pulled bleeder valve no fluid. i have a 99 cavilier with abs,any idea.i havent tried...


Im confused first thing is to connect all lines, fill master and start bleeding at master, have someone pump brake three times and hold, open line at master allow fluid or air to flow and close, do not leave open to long,after 3 sec of fluid flow close line. you will do this to every line on the master. pumping the pedal three times and holding down pedal every time you open the line , after bleeding master you will then go to the left front as this is the brake with no fluid flow. you will make sure brake fluid is full always check after a few bleedings.

Remove the bleeder screw and place finger over the hole. tell them when to go down and when to let up, this may take a while if a lot of air is in system, remove finger and tell them to push down then put finger over hole and tell to release then tell them to push as they push release finger, you will need to do this until you get fluid flow making sure when pedal is released that hole is covered with finger so that air is not sucked into system. once you get a flow you will put bleeder in and bleed that wheel, if bleeding is good you will then bleed system starting at rt rear then left rear and then rt front and last left front.

Dec 25, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do you bleed the brake system on 2003 suzki grand yitara 4x4 with abs brakes


The hydraulic brake system must be bled any time one of the brake lines is disconnected or air enters the system. There are two ways to bleed the system; pressure bleeding or manual bleeding. Both procedures will be given here, although pressure bleeding requires the use of some fairly expensive equipment (a pressure tank) and is seldom used. Both methods are equally effective.The correct bleeding sequence is: left front, right front, left rear, and right rear. On master cylinders equipped with a bleeder valve, bleed the master cylinder last.
PRESSURE BLEEDING
  1. Clean the top of the master cylinder, remove the cover, and attach the pressure bleeding adapter.
  2. The spring-loaded plunger on the front of the proportioning valve must be depressed while bleeding. Wire or tape can be wrapped around the valve to hold the plunger in.
  3. Check the pressure bleeder reservoir for correct pressure 20-29 psi (137-206 kPa) and fluid level, then open the release valve.
  4. Fasten a bleeder hose to the wheel cylinder or caliper bleeder nipple and submerge the free end of the hose in a transparent receptacle. The receptacle should contain enough brake fluid to cover the open end of the hose.
  5. Open the wheel cylinder or caliper bleeder nipple and allow the fluid to flow until all bubbles disappear and an uncontaminated flow exists.
  6. Close the nipple, remove the bleeder hose and repeat the procedure on the other wheel cylinders according to the sequence.


MANUAL BLEEDING(see Figures 1, 2 and 3)An alternative to the pressure method of bleeding requires two people to perform; one to depress the brake pedal and the other to open the bleeder nipples.
  1. Clean the top of the master cylinder, and then remove the cover and fill the reservoir with clean brake fluid.
  2. To prevent squirting fluid replace the cover.
  3. The spring-loaded plunger on the front of the proportioning valve must be depressed while bleeding. Wire or tape can be wrapped around the valve to hold the plunger in.
  4. Install a box end wrench on the left front bleeder screw.
  5. Attach a length of small diameter, clear vinyl tubing to the bleeder screw. Submerge the other end of the rubber tubing in a glass jar partially filled with clean brake fluid. Make sure the rubber tube fits on the bleeder screw snugly or you may be squirted with brake fluid when the bleeder screw is opened.
  6. Have your friend slowly depress the brake pedal. As this is done, open the bleeder screw half a turn and allow the fluid to run through the tube. Close the bleeder screw, then return the brake pedal to its fully released position.
  7. Repeat this procedure until no bubbles appear in the jar. Refill the master cylinder.
  8. Frequently check the master cylinder level during this procedure. If the reservoir runs dry, air will enter the system and the bleeding will have to be repeated.

Hope helps.

Sep 29, 2011 | 2000 Suzuki Grand Vitara

1 Answer

I replaced my front brake router and brake pads today. when i bleed the front left brake, a line which im assuming is a brake line near the rear left tire burst and is leaking brake fluid. when u tried...


First, there is NO Pumping of the brake pedal
involved in bleeding brakes

I think your smart enough to know you
need to replace both rear brake hoses,
before you proceed with the bleeding

Mar 22, 2011 | 1997 Chevrolet Cavalier

1 Answer

No brake fluid to the rear wheel cylinders


You'll need to start bleeding the brake system at the Master cylinder to determine where the problem lies.

The lines coming out of the master cylinder will need to be loosened & bled there, initially you can just do the back ones to identify the problem, but once fixed, the system will have to be bled from the Master cylinder first, then the farthest wheel from it, then next farthest, then next, until you do the drivers wheel last.

This method of bleeding the brakes prevents air from crossing from one line to another, causing air to be left in the system.

Back to bleeding the rear brakes first: As someone pumps up the brake pressure, making sure the resivoir stays full, with the cap on between bleeding, and have the person pressing the pedal to do these thngs.
1. Always move the pedal slowly, pressing and releasing.
2. Never release the pressure on the pedal after bleeding a brake, until the line is tightened, then release slowly to prevent air from getting into the fluid.

You should of course get fluid at the master cylinder when you bleed it (or just replace it), then you'll need to bleed the line at the right rear wheel (first) a few times to get fluid if it's been leaking, then the left rear wheel. If you get pressure but no fluid to the rear and the master cyliinder did have pressure released when you bled it, there is either a restriction in the line itself, or the porportioning valve could be damaged. (unusual for the valve to go bad actually, inspect lines for damage such as being pinched if you're getting pressure but no fluid.

Final test if it hasn't been resolved-remove lines at porportioning valve & make sure fluid is leaving/entering there as it should. If you find it defective, a good replacement can come from a salvage yard, or you can buy them new.

Brake fluid on the floorboard under the dash near the brake pedal=bad Master Cylinder.

good luck

Feb 21, 2010 | 1996 GMC Jimmy

1 Answer

Bleed the brake lines


start at the passenger rear tire, have someone PUMP up brakes and hold pressure on them, release pressure by locating small bleeder screw, loosen screw 1/4 turn, brake fluid/air should come out, after brake petal reaches floor tighten bleeder, repeat process until only brake fluid comes out. go to driver side rear repeat, go to pass. side front repeat, go to driver side front repeat, after each bleeding make sure you check brake fluid in reservoir.

Sep 24, 2009 | 1984 Ford Mustang

1 Answer

Bleeding brakes 2000 suburban wsith ab


Why were the brake lines replaced?

Sounds like the mastercylinder may have run dry. You have to bench bleed the master and then DO NOT allow fluid to run low, while bleeding brakes...

if master cylinder runs low on fluid and air gets in, almost impossible to bleed with out releasing the lines and bleed master it self.

Sep 20, 2009 | 2000 Chevrolet Suburban

1 Answer

BLEEDING REAR BRAKES CAN BLEED ONCE THEN SECOND TRY THE PEDAL WILL NOT MOVE AFTER BLEED VALVE OPENED . IF YOU WAIT 3 OR 4 MINUTES CAN BLEED AGAING PEDAL WILL MOVE BUT WILL NOT GO TO THE FLOOR. BRAKES ARE...


Sounds like a problem with the proportioning valve. Try not to push the pedal down to far when bleeding. The valve sounds like it is getting stuck closed, and takes a little bit to release and allow fluid to pass again.

Jun 10, 2009 | 1989 Chevrolet C1500

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