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I could see one window not working from a broken wire inside the door flex , but not both back windows . Back windows are controlled by LF door module . Both back windows have different grounds - LR G200 an RR G201 . Also both rear window switches have different power supply's .RR switch fuse # 18 30 amp . LR is fuse b# 9 40 amp . Both window motors or switche's going out at same time ???? wouldn't think so .
Driver door module circuits open/shorted.
Loose, corroded connectors.
Damaged window regulator control switch.
Damaged window regulator electric drive.
Open fuse in fuse junction panel Fuse 39 (10A), 28 (10A), 30 (10A).
Open fuse in power distribution box Fuse 9 (40A), 10 (40A), 8 (40A).
Glass, Frames and Mechanisms
Inspection and Verification
Verify the customer's concern by operating the power windows/heated back window to duplicate the condition.
Inspect to determine if one of the following mechanical or electrical concerns apply:
VISUAL INSPECTION CHART
Mechanical
Electrical
Front door power window regulator damaged.
Front window run damaged.
Front door window glass out of window run.
Front door window glass broken.
Driver door module circuits open/shorted.
Loose, corroded connectors.
Damaged window regulator control switch.
Damaged window regulator electric drive.
Open fuse in fuse junction panel Fuse 39 (10A), 28 (10A), 30 (10A).
Open fuse in power distribution box Fuse 9 (40A), 10 (40A), 8 (40A).
Scratched grid.
If inspection reveals an obvious concern that is readily serviced, correct the concern before continuing with Inspection and Verification.
If the concern remains after inspection, connect the Rotunda New Generation Star (NGS) Tester 007-00500 or equivalent to the data link connector (DLC) located beneath the instrument panel to perform DATA LINK DIAGNOSTICS test. If the NGS responds with NO RESPONSE/NOT EQUIPPED for the driver door module, go to Pinpoint Test A . If the NGS responds with NO RESPONSE/NOT EQUIPPED for the lighting control module, go to Pinpoint Test B . If the DATA LINK DIAGNOSTICS test is passed for the drivers door module and lighting control module, retrieve continuous DTCs and execute Self Test Diagnostics for the driver door module and lighting control module to retrieve current DTCs.
If self test is passed and no DTCs are retrieved, go to the Symptom Chart to continue diagnostics.
If DTCs are retrieved, go to the Driver Door Module (DDM) Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Index or Lighting Control Module (LCM) Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Index to continue diagnostics.
If the driver door module cannot be accessed by the NGS, GO to Pinpoint Test A . If the lighting control module cannot be accessed by the NGS, go to Pinpoint Test B .
Rotunda Service Bay Diagnostic System (SBDS®) 001-00001 may also be used to diagnose this system.
Power Windows Completely Inoperative
Supply open or shorted.
Ground open.
Window regulator control switch inoperative.
Circuits open or shorted.
Window regulator electric drive inoperative.
Driver door module.
PERFORM driver door module self test. Service DTCs. If no DTCs are retrieved, GO to Pinpoint Test C .
? 3:14
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vcdULQXKcek
Nov 18, 2012 - Uploaded by QERutube
If, when pressing the up/down window switch, the motor can be heard to be .... my car window goes down but ...
? 8:17
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y7NlPFwW540
Feb 16, 2013 - Uploaded by Secluded Dell
Taking off the driver door panel to get at the window regulator motor controller and window clip. ... out ...
There is a fuse but if it is only back ones and the front work without trouble not fuse. If one window don't work could be motor. If both windows don't work probably a switch check left rear switch. Also relay space 9 in fuse box
if its not been used for a while it can get stuck. have some one press the switch to go down and put both hands on the window in and out side and push down at the same time. when down go back up on the switch and down down again till moving free again.
hi its either a fuse but mor likley a relay most of these are or should be in fuse box very unlikley that both motors are gone also get front window buttons checked if first sugestion doesent work
either window button or motor gone is ther any noises at all from the door cards like a thumping noise or is it dead all together but sounds like motor to me as a fuse would knock both sides off
Try the safety switch...The one you lock so children in back can't let the window down... That would be the reason the front window still works..Tap it hard while pushing down the button on the window...Worth a try..
The power lock problem is definately the electric lock actuator in the door. Replace it. The power window problem could be the switch or the motor. Put a test light on the motor connections. Operate the power window switch up and down. If the light works both directions, then replace the motor. If the light only lights one direction, then replace the switch... and you still might have to replace the motor afterward so do not think that replacing the switch is absolute. They sometimes fail together.
did you recently have a dead battery? Either way try to resynchronize your windows (i'm not sure if you meant front window or rear quarter window). If you hold the window switch in the up position(car running and door closed) untill window reaches the top and continue to hold for 10 seconds the window will reprogram itself. try both front windows. This system is complicated and is best diagnosed via s.d.s. diagnostic machine. I will give you a couple of other possible easy remedies. If your vehicle is equiped with a ski window in the rear trunk panal the door must be shut, also your cargo cover must be shut and plastic lid secured. There are numerous micro switches that input to your soft top control unit-any one could cause the top to be inop. Check to make sure the switch on the cargo cover( retractable cover in trunk) is secured to it's housing, they do periodically fall off. Also if your roll bar ( rear head rests ) has been mechanically deployed You must hold the switch in the up position untill the rams lock back into the roll bar-does the roll bar operate? Always operate top with vehicle running because they are very voltage dependent. Your owners manual will explain how to manually raise top and some simple operation and repair remedies. If you are knowledgable about automotive electrical systems you can disconnect both leads from the battery and touch them together to drain the capacitors and it may reset the module( do not attempt if you are not knowledgable with automotive electricity because there are many things that can go wrong. hopefully I have been helpful.
It sounds like it came loose from the regulator and right out of the track. Pull the door panel off and you will be able to see. You may have to just put it back together or buy a new regulator. I hope this helps.
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